THE 



HAND-BOOK OF GARDENING, 

FOR 

THE USE OF ALL PERSONS AYHO POSSESS A 
GARDEN OF LIMITED EXTENT. 



THE ELEVENTH EDITION, 

COx^SIDERABLY EXLARGED AXD IMPROVED. 



^ 7 ^ 



By EDWAED KEMP, 

Landscape Gardener, Birkenhead Park, 
Author of " How to Lay out a Small 




LONDON : 

BRADBURY & EYANS, 11, BOUYERIE STREET. 
1855. 



tONDOlf ; 

DKADSUUY AND EVAAS, PKIXTERS, WHITEFBIARS. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Ix an age when gardening, in all its branches, is 
becoming a fashionable pursuit, the press naturally 
teems with works, fraught with every information 
that can be desired, respecting both its principles 
and practice. The want, however, of a little 
manual of general and simple directions for the 
management of small gardens, was long felt, 
previous to the first issue of the present work ; 
and the numerous editions of it which have 
successively been distributed, proves that the 
public wishes were both anticipated and grati- 
fied by the efforts of the author to supply this 
desideratum. 

It is needless to observe, that most works on 
gardening are written for the members of the 

a 2 



vi 



INTRODUCTION. 



profession^ or those individuals, at least, who have 
some knowledge of its principles. The present 
little treatise is not intended for the initiated few, 
but for the inquiring many; its aim is to convey 
all the most useful and valuable information con- 
nected with this most interesting subject, which is 
but elucidated and amplified in larger works. And 
while all technical phrases have been avoided or 
explained, its style has not been allowed to fall 
below that standard, which will render the book 
readable by the most respectable classes of ama- 
teur gardeners. 

To enhance its interest, and render it still more 
practically useful, the proprietors have the gratifi- 
cation of announcing that they have had the whole 
carefully revised by a professional gardener, and 
very considerable additions have been made to the 
practical portion of it. Particular attention is 
requested to the division which treats of the cul- 
tivation and management of flowering plants, very 
little of which appeared in any but the last edition. 
The present issue embodies a variety of further 
enlargements. 

The great interest which now attaches itself to 



INTRODUCTIOX. 



vii 



this most delio'htful branch of o^ardeninof, will 
doubtless render the new feature just mentioned 
peculiarly acceptable and valuable; particularly as 
the directions herein contained are the result of 
the author's own experience, as well as that of 
many highly respectable amateurs. Selected lists 
of the most ornamental species of the different 
kinds of plants which can be easily procured, have 
likewise been furnished, and these, it is presumed, 
will not be found the least valuable features of 
the work. 

The scientific portion, too, has now been com- 
pletely re-arranged, and its matter rendered more 
consonant with modern discoveries and observation. 
It has, besides, been reduced to a more decidedly 
practical bearing, in conformity vrith the general 
spirit of the work, which aims to impart sound 
and useful information rather than mere amuse- 
ment or pleasure. 

The proprietors hope that nothing will now be 
wanting to render this little treatise as complete 
as could be desired ; as every branch of gardening 
which can be performed without the assistance of 



viii 



INTRODUCTION. 



a professional gardener, lias been treated of in the 
most simple and practical manner possible. Those 
subjects on which a diversity of opinion exists, have 
either been fully stated and left to the decision of 
the reader; or, that opinion has been adopted 
which experience has proved to be the most con- 
sistent and correct. In all cases, nothing has 
been asserted but what may safely be relied upon, 
and the importance of this will no doubt be fully 
appreciated. 

It appears necessary that something should be 
added on the laying out or disposition of a garden ; 
but as this must depend entirely on local circum- 
stances, and on the means or wishes of the occupant, 
it is impossible to furnish any specific directions. 
All that can be said, therefore, on this subject, is 
that the ornamental part of a garden should always 
be nearest to the dwelling, and, if possible, in the 
front of it ; and that the part devoted to kitchen 
produce should be situated at as great a"distance 
from the house as the extent of the garden will 
permit; provided it does not exceed one or two 
acres. If it is bounded by a wall or fence, some 
shrubs should be planted immediately within it, to 



IXTRODUCTIOX. 



ix 



conceal the boundary, and all further arrange- 
ment of it can be conducted to suit the wants or 
wishes of the owner or tenant a 

In the smallest gardens, a portion of them 
should ahvays be devoted to ornamental purposes, 
as, so far from the ground thus occupied being- 
wasted, the cultivation of flowers, and the manage- 
ment of a flower-bed or border, improves and 
elevates the moral character of the individuals 
exercised upon it, to a degree almost inconceivable. 
And if no other good efi*ect results from it, it will 
at least afl'ord a most deli^'htful som'ce of recre- 
ation and amusement. 



Jidy, 1855. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

A. THE ART AXD SCIEXCE OF GfARDENING- 1 

B, THE SCIENCE OF GAEDENIXG . . . 2 

I. The Op.gaxs and Parts of Plants . . 2 

1. Leaves .... ... 3 

2. Roots . , 4 

3. Spongelets . . . . . . 5 

4. Pores ....... 6 

5. Sap and pulp . . . . . . 8 

II. The Agents tthich afeeci Plants . . 9 

1. Eeat ... ... 9 

2. Light 10 

3. Ak and gases . . . . .11 

4. Water 12 

5. Electricity 13 

6. Weatlier 13 

7. Soils 14 

8. Maniu^es 16 



xii 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

III. The Principles of Cultivation . . . 19 

1. Draining . . . . . . 19 

2. Operating on soil . . . . . 20 

3. Watering . . . . . . 21 

4. Propagating by seeds . . . .22 

5. Propagating by division of tbe roots . 25 

6. Propagating by offsets, layers, and suckers 27 

7. Propagating by slips and cuttings . . 30 

8. Propagating by grafting, &c. . . .36 

9. Planting . . . . . . . 38 

10. Pruning . . . . . .38 

11. Flovvering and fruiting . . . . 39 

12. Sbeltering and protecting . . .40 

13. Rotation of crops . . . . . 41 

IV. The Accidents of Cultivation . . .41 

1. Tools and conveniences . . . . 42 

2. Diseases of plants . . . . .43 

3. Injurious insects and animals . . . 44 

C. THE ART AND PRACTICE OF GARDENING 47 
I. On Rearing Kitchen Vegetables . .47 
I. Boots 48 

1. Potatoes ...... 48 

2. Carrots 53 

3. Parsneps . . . , , . . 55 

4. Beet . . . . ... 55 

5. Jemsalem articbokes . . . .56 

6. Turnips 57 

7. Radishes 59 



CONTENTS. 



xiii 



PAGE 



II. stems 61 

1. Onions 61 

2. Shallots, rocambole, and garlic . . . 63 

3. Leeks ....... 64 

4. CMves or syze . . . . . . 65 

5. Celery 65 

6. Ehnbarb ... . , = . , 63 

7. Asparagus ...... 70 

III. Leaves 71 

1. Cabbages . . . . . . . 71 

2. Savoys 76 

3. Kale, German greens, or borecole . . 76 

4. Brussels sprouts . . . . .77 

5. Broccoli . . . . . . . 77 

6. Cauliflo^-er 73 

7. Siylnacb or spinago' . . . . . 73 

8. Lettuce . . . . . . 80 

9. Endive 81 

10. Cresses 82 

11. Mustard 84 

12. Pi^rdey 84 

13. Street berbs, kc 84 

lY. Seeds 85 

1. Peas 85 

2. Beans ....... 83 

3. Frenck or kidney beans . -. . . 90 

4. Scarlet runners . . . . .90 

h 



xiv 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 



II. On Rearing Common Fruits 
1. Strawberries 



91 
91 



ly. 



2. 


Raspberries . . .. . 


. . 94 


3. 


Gfooseberries ..... 


. 94 


4. 


Black currants .... 




5. 


Bed and wMte currants . 


. 98 


6. 


Apple trees .... 


. . 99 


7. 


Pear, plum, and cherry trees . 


. 101 


8. 


Gfrape vines . . - . 


. , 102 


On Rearing Flowers .... 


. 103 


1. 


Hardy flowering shrubs 


. . 106^ 




Evergreen flowering shrubs . 


. 105 




Deciduous flowering shrubs 


. . 112 




Low deciduous trees . 


. 115 




Hedges ..... 


. . 121 




Climbing flowering shrubs . 


. 122 


2. 


Hardy perennial flowering plants 


. . 128 


3. 


Hardy bulbs and corms . 


. 136 


4. 


Hardy biennial flowering plants . 


. . 140 


5. 


Hardy annual flowering plants . 


. . 144 


6. 


Florists' flowers .... 


. 152 


7. 


Plants in pots 


. . 166 


Gtardening Societies .... 


, 181 



/>. CALENDAR OF GARDEN WORK . . .182 



2. February . . . . . .183 



1. January 



. 182 



CONTEXTS. 



XV 



PAGE 

3. March . 184 

4. April ....... 185 

5. May . . 18G 

6. June . . . . . . . 187 

7. July 188 

8. August 189 

9. SeptemLer 190 

10. October 191 

11. November 192 

12. December 193 

THE SUCCESSION OF CROPS . . . .193 



THE 

HANDBOOK OF GARDENING. 



A. THE ART AND SCIENCE OF GARDENim 



Gardening may be treated either as au Art or a 
Science. 

The Art of Gardening consists in the employment of all 
those means necessary to rear, develop, nurture, and 
gather in the various crops, whether of herbs, fruits, 
or flowers. 

The Science of Gardening is founded on a knowledge of 
the nature, constitution, habits, and wants of plants, and 
on the way in which the agents and processes of JSTature 
affect them. It should, therefore, teach the general 
application of the facts thus known to all the operations 
of culture. 

An individual who has no acquaintance with the Science 
of Gardening, conducts its numerous processes very much 
in the dark, and is successful or otherwise, chiefly as 
accident may determine. He sows, plants, and labours, 
as his forefathers have done before him ; and the simplest 
derangement of the circumstances which have previously 
caused him success will disappoint and frustrate all his 
expectations. 

The mere book-gardener, on the other hand, who is 

B 



scizyQZ or gardeni^'g. 



conTer^.i:: cn-j 'rl:2 theories, finds himself continually 

^::h :ii:re : : : h — " :i I liu' le to perpetual failure : for tlie 
c : : ::t-: : r-v' :^ : r" ii '^- :' ~ rxperience being unknown 
an:i-_er'-T::f ii: :h:i:^-:hr- he attempts can prosper. 

He: :t tIt :r ^:_r_:e, and the precepts of 

ex;: ti it c-.ri r.hke xecrs-?.: " : enable any one to garden 

:::::: ;:.:h" :.x:". ::ixe:: h:^ ; i: :::ce according to the 
::x:h::;x^ ^-h::h he hx;h the objects of his 
oa.re "heevd, T':ve^x>°; ^ ~ t f. :■ • ii' : ': e : e : -.;res is the 
Tur': :-e o: the ee-ext _ - . _ :'. .~e :h:.'.. : t-mmence 
vhth >hei.ce; l= the fy;.:: :lr;;::i:'etone of the building. 



B. THE SCIENCE AXD PRINCIPLES OF 
GAPDEXIhT'h. 



To t:xe.ee~t:ei:'. e::er :-> the xrev :x -^hich plants live, 
and :ee x: veorOi h xe ; x ; : xt thx hit h theer principal 
^ 0: - exo vex >:t:r^ xt t t ;e -x ixixeh ^^'e ^hall only, 
e x" t~ ee. . . . . xe xt :: thr^: :x it eeehx :x h^pensable 
to etXtxUe in cehcr to gixe a clear \x=-,v of their 
cnhxx xox, 



A- ""xt^^ x_i eexxe' ix^tcin. every vegetable is furnished 
itx c-ix ie v i organs which are essential to its 
itehx 1-1 iTiri X 11 :x. ir its very existence. An organ is 
x: X hoxi xhiih : xeupies a certain position, and 
exixi- ceexix izice^ ix iti eeexomy, and to which a par- 
ticular ax x xi~tixxxiihix- xxo 1 - applied. Stems, leaves, 
roots, flovTrr^. are - xch or^oxi ; and some of these have 
subordinate parts, by which special and peculiar offices are 
performed. The sponeelets or tips of the roots — the pores, 
situated i iius of the ext- ^ hce — the 

sap, whie^ , blood of the , -and the 

alburnum, which is the incipient layer deposited yearly 
beneath the bark of woody plants, to increase their bulk 
— are examples of such parts. 



THE ORGAKS AND PARTS OF PLANTS. 



3 



1.-^ Leaves. 

These, as is well known, are the upper appendages of 
plants, which give them nearly all theii* beauty, and are the 
means by which they expand and become strong. They 
are the instruments of elaborating all food^ and giving ofi" 
its watery parts. It is in them that the processes analo- 
gous to digestion and assimilation in animals ai'e carried 
on. Through the action of light upon them, they separate 
the nutritious from the watery portions of the sap, and 
discharge the latter into the air, while they restore the 
fonner to the branches and stems. AYhen, therefore, by 
bu'ds, or insects, or disease, or the browsing of cattle, a 
plant is stripped of its leaves, it will either become weak 
and sickly, or altogether die. And the more abundant and 
healthy the foliage of a plant may be, the more vigorous 
and luxuriant will be its general growth. To pluck leaves 
from plants with the view of aiding fruit or wood to ripen, 
or at all to anticipate their falling off in the Autumn, is a 
great error ; for it is through the leaves alone that both 
wood and fruit are enabled to reach matiuity. 

It must not be supposed, however, that encouragement 
i^hould be offered to the growth of leaves in all cases. A 
frait tree or a flowering plant may sometimes settle into 
a thoroughly unprolific state, in consequence of undue 
luxuriance in leaves and wood. The corrective will then 
be found, not in reducing the number of leaves by thinning 
them, but by pruning the branches, or descending to the 
source of the evil, and impoverishing or pruning the roots. 
This is merely mentioned to show that, although leaves 
are most necessary, and their action beneficial, they may, 
in particular instances, become too numerous, and thus do 
mischief. There is a kind of balance preserved by ^STature 
in plants, between the leaves and the roots ; so that where 
the one is particularly strong or feeble, the others will be 
sympathetically strong or feeble also. Whatever tends to 
increase or diminish the one will therefore similarly affect 
the others. Roots may be very vigorous, and require 
pruning, as already suggested, because they occasion the 
production of too much wood and foliage. And because, 



4 



SCIENCE OF GAEDENING. 



from removal or other causes, roots may sometimes be 
curtailed or mutilated, the branches should in such cases 
be shghtly pruned, to restore the balance between roots 
and leaves. 

2.— Hoots. 

Situated at the base of a plant, these are the chief 
means of supplying it with food, as well as maintaining it 
in its position. They may be either fibrous or simple ; and 
according to their capacity and disposition to form 
numerous little branches, wdll the plant that possesses 
them be either easy or difficult to transplant. Trees or 
plants that have the habit of producing simple roots — 
*' tap-roots," as they are usually called — are among the 
most uncertain to remove, unless they are transplanted 
young, when they wdll often be all the better for some 
purposes if they have the tap-root shortened, and are thus 
compelled to throw out side rootlets. The whole of the 
cabbage tribe are of this description. Other kinds of 
plants are thrown much sooner into fertility by one or 
several removals, because the reduction of the roots 
checks any propensity they may have to form superfluous 
wood and foliage. This is the case with most fruit-trees, 
and with many flow^ering plants. 

Roots spread themselves either horizontally or dow^n- 
wards. Some plants have a natural leaning to either the 
one or the other of these habits, and should be planted in 
deeper or shallow^er soil accordingly. But in general, 
those which have a great depth of earth to grow^ in wdll be 
most luxuriant, while such as have their roots necessarily 
kept near the surface of the ground will be more fruitful 
and productive, as shall be hereafter explained. 

In very poor sandy or gravelly soils, and especially in 
pure sand or gravel, the roots of plants have an interesting 
tendency to multiply themselves, and produce a profusion 
of fibres ; as if for the purpose of picking up nutriment 
from a greater multitude of quarters, wdien it becomes 
more scant}^ They likewise, in such positions, occa- 
sionally form small tubers on the roots, apparently to 
enable them to lay up moisture in themselves against the 
occnrreuce of a particularly dry period, The former of 



THE OEGAI^S A2^D PARTS OF PLANTS. 



5 



these facts is instructive as well as joleasiug, for it indicates 
that shrubs or trees reared on a light, poor, and shallow 
soil, will have the greatest quantity of root fibres, and 
thus be best fitted for transplanting. We have recently 
observed however, vrith some astonishment, that trees 
planted on mere sand-hills, near the sea-coast, form 
scarcely any fibre, but send down long succulent roots to 
an immense depth — evincing a wonderful power of 
adapting themselves to circumstances ; for, if they were 
merely to make lateral fibres in such a spot, like the more 
humble herbaceous tribes, they must soon perish ; whereas, 
by striking down so deeply, they have the means of ob- 
tuining constant moisture in the driest weather. 

Z.—Siiong&lets. 

At the tip of every root or root-fibre there is a growing 
succulent point, like a piece of half-formed wood, which 
botanists call the spongiole or spougelet, and which is the 
medium by which the great bulk of the plant's nutriment 
is imbibed. This spongelet, which is just an extension of 
the half-elaborated sap or pulp before it is hardened, is 
extremely tender, porous, and absorbent, and is i^aler, 
more fieshy, and transparent than the older parts of the 
root. It takes up water and other liquids, and imme- 
diately conveys them throughout its substance as a spouge 
does. It will receive nothing but liquids, though it does 
not reject anything they may have in solution. This is a 
fact of considerable importance, for it shows that what- 
ever is intended for the food of plants must be capable of 
being easily reduced to a liquid state. Manures, there- 
fore, or chemical applications, must either be readily re- 
ducible by water, or be rendered so by the addition of 
some acid or other ingredient. 

As the spongelets play so very essential a part in the 
growth or sustenance of A^egetables, it should always be 
a leadiug object to preserve and multiply them, where 
vigorous development is desired, or to lessen their number 
in ca^e the plant is becoming too exuberant. In removing 
some plants, therefore, if balls of earth are attached to 
their roots, a large portion of the spongelets will remain 

B 3 



6 



SCIENCE OP GARDENING. 



■uniojured, and they will thus experience a less decided 
check. Or, if the increase of the plant's subsequent capa- 
cities for enlarging itself be sought, transplantation, with its 
necessary destruction of many spongioles, will produce a 
tendency to throw out a far greater number, and thus give 
the means of future extraordinary growth. It is pretty 
generally known that most vegetables possess the power 
of renewing and indefinitely multiplying their root-fibres, 
on which the spongelets are situated, wherever these get 
severed or removed. At the same time, the reduction of 
the number of spongelets will often, by staying undue 
luxuriance, induce a state of greater fertility, or entirely 
bring it about in plants that have previously been barren. 

Newly planted things, being deprived for a time of a 
large proportion of their spongelets, require a larger 
supply of liquid food if it be in the growing season, that 
the spongelets which remain may take up a greater 
quantity of it, and thus make good the deprivation. It is 
for this reason that the early autumn is considered pre- 
ferable for planting all kinds of trees and shrubs, because 
there is not, for a long period afterwards, any demand upon 
their resources, and they are able to form new spongelets 
before these are required. The beginning of the spring, 
or just before they acquire their full power of vitality, is 
the next best season, as they then have all the strength of 
the renewed vital energy to enable them rapidly to form 
new spongelets. 

The excretions supposed to begivenoff by plants through 
their spongelets, and which were thought to deteriorate 
the soil, and render it unfit for a second crop of the same 
kind, are now proved to have little or no existence. The 
cause of the deterioration of soils by particular crops, for 
others of a similar kind, will be found in the fact that 
certain plants withdraw peculiar gases or elements froul 
the earth, and these have again to be supplied before 
similar plants can be satisfactorily grown on the same 
soil. 

4. — Pores. 

In addition to the spongelets as a means of taking up 
food, plants are dotted all over the leaves, stems, and even 



THE OEGANS AND PARTS OF PLANTS. 7 

roots, with numerous minute openings, called pores, which 
are often smaller than pin-holes, and by which liquid food 
in the soil, or that which is floating in the air, is freely 
received. Until very recently, it was believed that the 
nutriment of plants was obtained almost solely through 
the roots. But it has now been proved that they can exist 
loholly on atmospheric supplies, and that they draw very 
largely from this resource at all times. The ^^ores there- 
fore, are no doubt the means through which such nourish- 
ment is appropriated. But they are also the agents by 
w^hich evaporation is carried on, and probably £iir admitted. 
Those on the leaf undoubtedly lead to small air-cells, and 
they are j)Ossibly similar to the nostrils of animals, or the 
pores in the human body, or rather to the breathing pores 
in the sides of insects. The subjoined figures will convey 
a good idea of the shape and nature of pores, as existing on 
the leaves of plants ; and their resemblance to such as are 
found in the sides of insects. 




Pores greatly magnified : a, a, pores of plants open ; 6, h, the 
same shut ; c, breathing pore or spiracle in the side of a caterpillar 
open ; the same shut. 

These figures represent the pores to have raised lips, 
varying in form, which appear to shut when they are 
wetted, and also in the dark, but open in dry air, and when 
exposed to sunlight. Through these pores the plant gives 
off two-thirds of its superfluous water, in a similar manner 
to that in which animals do the same by the breath and by 
perspiration. They perform, in fact, much the same offices 
as the pores of the human body, which are easily proved 



8 



SCIENCE OF GARDE2?ING. 



to imbibe as well as to exbale moisture, by plunging the 
bands in water wben suffering from thirst. 

As all manner of cutaneous, and even internal diseases 
result from the obstruction of the pores in the animal 
system, so plants can never be healthy when their pores 
are in any way prevented from acting regularly. An imdue 
jjressure of stiff soil about the roots, and a deposit of soot, 
dirt, and dust on the leaves, are alike injurious. Rains 
will often remove all the latter impurities from plants that 
are growing in the open groimd; but a powerful occasional 
syringing, or washing with a garden-engine, will be exceed- 
ingly useful in dry, dusty weather ; and for plants in pots, 
that are kept in the house, the same process, or sponging 
the leaves carefully, will be highly beneficial at times. 

5. — Scqy and Pulp, 

The liquid matters imbibed by the spongelets and pores 
of plants, and transmitted through their system, acquire, 
as soon as appropriated, the name of sap ; and after the 
two-thirds of the more watery constituents of this have 
been thrown off by evaporation, the remaining third, which 
is like the blood of animals, will be consolidated into a 
thicker consistence, termed pulp. The sap of plants then, 
is the food w^hich they have taken into their system in 
its crude state. Being diffused through the stems, and 
elaborated in the leaves, and the mere water discharged 
through the pores, it becomes pul}). This last, being the 
vital part and substance of plants, determines, by its abun- 
dance or deficiency, their healthiness and strength. If too 
little solid matter is taken up by the sap, (as will be the 
case in poor soils,) the plants will be weakly and yellowish; 
or if the amount of light and air supplied to the plants be 
insufficient to sepa,rate the wputer}^ from the substantial 
])arts of the sap, and to bring it to its proper consistency, 
tlie shoots will become feeble, drawn, w^antiug in colour, 
and the leaves pale and tender. 

Palp is chiefiy composed of the carbon or charcoal taken 
up by the sap, and is itself of a dark blue colour ; but 
the transparent tissue of the leaf in which it is enclosed 
being more or less yellow, the combination of the two 



THE AGENTS WHICH AFJTECT PLANTS. 



9 



colours forms green, as blue paint mixed with yellow 
produces green. This will account for the yellow colour 
of leaves when the pulp is deficient. 

II. THE AGENTS WHICH AFFECT PLANTS. 
l.—Heat. 

Before ever sap can be extracted from the soil^ or set in 
motion afterwards, it must be acted upon by heat, which 
is the prime agent in promoting the growth of plants. It 
is present both in the soil and in the air, and is every- 
where diffused. In proportion to its prevalence, (other 
conditions being available,) the growth of plants will be 
either rapid or extensive, or the contrary. This accounts 
for the comparative dormancy of plants in winter or cold 
weather. The susi)ension of the flow of sap at the begin- 
ning of winter is erroneously ascribed to the descent of the 
sap at that season, when, in fact, it is solely occasioned by 
the absence of a sufficient degree of light and heat. If 
these and moisture were duly present, perpetual growth 
would be the result, as it is, except during the dry season, 
in tropical climates. 

Heat is distributed pretty equally among all things on 
the earth's surface, by a process somewhat similar to that 
of water always finding its level, and which is termed 
radiation. Thus, it will invariably pass from a warm sub- 
stance to one near it which is colder, and all the more 
rapidly if the two things are porous and in contact. The 
warm ground, for instance, will give off its heat into the 
cold air, till the heat of the ground and that of the air 
become equalised; but the air will not communicate its 
heat so readily to the ground, as it is a property of heat 
to be continually ascending, and passing off into space. 

As plants derive their food mainly from the soil, its 
heat should be in some measure correspondent to that of 
the atmosphere, or they will increase in length, but not in 
strength. This is one reason why cold wet soils are gene- 
rally unsuitable. The roots do not grow in proportion to 
the branches and leaves. 

Cold is merely a state in which, by the process of radia- 
tion, heat is absent. Plants always possess a certain 



10 



SCIENCE OF GARDENING. 



proportion of heat, which is necessary to their vitality; and 
soils are in winter usually warmer than the air. It is in 
preventing this heat from flying off into the air, and not 
in imparting fresh heat, that the true philosophy of 
shelter consists, 

2. — Light. 

Without light, heat would merely expand the parts of 
plants : light must elaborate the sap into pulp. Plants 
that are excluded from light become drawn and weak, as 
under the shade of trees or walls, and in dwelling-rooms. 
Even grass, which is endowed with such a wonderful power 
of life, dies under the thick shade of trees. Plants natu- 
rally turn to the light, and grow towards it, their tissues 
becoming more elaborated and contracted on the side from 
which light is supj)lied : hence their feebleness and one- 
sidedness. If plants be placed in a warm cellar, where 
light is only supplied from a single aperture, they will 
always grow in that direction if the rays can reach them. 

There can be no fruit or flowers without light, because 
none of the parts of plants can be fully and properly 
matured ; and the flower or fruit-bearing process is the 
result of the last stage of maturity. Greenness, and all 
high colours, are the result of light ; leaves have only a 
sickly yellow hue without it. Sut it must be remembered 
that flowers, once developed, will fade sooner when sub- 
jected to strong light, which will rather throw them into 
fruit. When flowers, therefore, and not fruits, are desired, 
a little shading, after the first blossoms have expanded, 
will prolong their beauty. 

The exclusion of light produces hlancJiingy as in the 
familiar cases of lettuce, endive, and celery ; but it gives 
additional succulence, and crispness, and tenderness, as 
with the sea-kale. All vegetables, therefore, that are used 
for their juiciness, or eaten raw as salads, or in which 
much fibre Would be a defect, should be grown quickly, 
with plenty of warmth, but comparatively less light. 

Want of light is often the real cause of evils which are 
popularly ascribed to want of air, though both combined 
may occasionally be acting. Light may, however, be pre- 
judicial to plants in certain stages, as after fresh planting 



THE AGENTS WHICH AFFECT PLANTS. 



11 



or potting, when it stimulates them more than their crip- 
pled roots will bear. Dull vveather, is, therefore, best for 
both potting and planting, and a little shade after either 
process may often be beneficial. 

3. — Air and Oases. 

Air is as necessary to plants as to human beings, since 
they both exhaust it of its health-producing influences, and 
probably both vitiate it to some extent, as far as them- 
selves at least are concerned. There can be no general 
healthiness or robustness without fresh air. The roots 
of plants require to be within reach of it, consequently, 
v>^here they are tolerably near the surface, and in porous 
soil, the plants are much more fertile. Yery deep soils, 
which attract the roots away from the influence of air, 
tend only to the production of leaves and branches. Air 
fills the soil as well as the atmosphere, and exists in plants 
in little cells, which appear provided expressly for it. 

It is said to be valuable as a mechanical agent, in 
agitating the different parts of plants, and keeping them 
healthy and hardy, in helping off their watery evapora- 
tions, and in removing impurities. But it is most useful 
in conveying gases to them, as a very considerable 
quantity of the gaseous food of plants resides in the 
atmosphere, and is communicated to them directly 
through their pores, or through the soil to the roots; 
besides being precipitated upon them, or forced into the 
ground for them by rain, snow, &c. Oxygen and nitrogen, 
the food of plants, are the chief constituents of the atmos- 
phere. Carbon, also, which is essential to plants, is 
derived both from the air and the soil. It exists most 
abundantly where population is densest, and the various 
processes of life most thickly carried on. Plants and 
trees in large towns must therefore tend materially to 
improve the air, by relieving it of its carbon. 

A close frame or hand-glass, where little or no fresh 
air is admitted to dry up the juices/ and that which it 
contains is kept slightly moist, is the best condition for 
newly potted plants or cuttings. Quiet moist weather is 
likewise always best for planting, as winds seriously dry 



12 SCIENCE OF GARDENINCr. 

the root? of plants during the operation, arid assist iii 
abstracting too much of their juices after tliey have been 
removed. 

Plants convert the oxygen and carbon which they re- 
ceive from the soil and air into carbonic acid, v-hich they 
exhale at night. This being a deadly and danger ous gas 
to human beings, plants or fiowers ai'e not considered 
healthy in a sitting or bed room dm^iug the night. In rhe 
day, they give off oxygen, especially in the morning, 
which is reputed to render the morning air so fresh and 
exhilarating. They are very useful in absorbing from the 
air the carbon which is so injurious to animal life, and 
they purify stagnant water in the same way. 

4:.— Water, 

This agent is composed of two parts of nydrogc-n ga^ 
and one part of oxygen. In its simple stare, it i- mere- 
fore not unfitted partially to s " u ^ 1 ui- E t - fi\ 
rarely found thus free from some other mgredieur. : nd i- 
capable of taking up all the various matters wluou i : 
preserve and to develop vegetable life. ^ - . h . ~ 
principal medium by which plants feed. 

AVater exists both in a liquid and a flu. . . l - 

as it is found in or upon the earth or in t..^ ruui, cohere. 
It is always more or less naturally present m s:u-. rtud is 
chscharged from the atmosphere, to which it travels 'V 
means of evaporation, in the form of rain, .v, ,v: 
"Without water, vegetables w^ alJ - e ' ' 1 
therefore be supplied when it - i v ^ 

such plants as are kept in an -i ite. lue soil in 

which plants grow should I :.v lunsr, but not 

wet. In extremely wet soils, taere can never oe sumeienr 
heat or air, and the vessels of planes placed in_ tiiem wi.l 
soon become turgid and diseased. This is tiie basis of 
all draining, whether in the narur.d ground, or in pots. 

A great variety of nutritive matters are conveyed by 
nature to plants through the medium of water, and may 
be applied artificiall}' by the same means. As only Invaias 
can be absorbed, nothing that will not dissolve in tiiem 
can be expected to enter the plant, or do it a particle of 
good. 



THE AGENTS WHICH AFFECT PLANTS. 



13 



Water is very necessary and very refreshing to the 
leaves of plants, to wash away dust and dirt from them, 
and keep their pores in healthy action ; besides checking 
any extravagant drain on their resources in dry weather. 
Rains and dews are beneficial in this way, for the most 
part. And in artificial watering, whether given to plants 
in the open ground or in pots, syringing over the leaves 
will be an important addition, without which common 
watering at the roots would be of comparatively little 
avail. But it should be seen that the water, however 
applied, is not of an injurious nature, and does not con- 
tain deleterious matter. 

5. — Electricity, 

In the absence of any definite knowledge of this myste- 
rious power, it can only be mentioned as a thing that acts 
decidedly and strongly upon plants. There can be no 
doubt that it promotes healthiness, when present in only 
its ordinary condition and quantity. But it also seems, at 
least, to occasion disease, and to be in some sort produc- 
tive of what are popularly termed " blights," which are 
sometimes in no way attributable to insects. How far it 
may go, in its usual state, towards composing or upholding 
vegetable life, it is impossible to say. ^'either can it be 
determined, by any means at present known or under- 
stood, to what extent (if at all) it has been productive of 
the disease which has so unhappily become notorious as 
the potato blight," though this is most commonly 
ascribed to atmospheric influences. But as the further 
discussion of this principle could not tend to any positive 
practical result, it may be dismissed with a simple refer- 
ence to the known potency of its action on vegetable life. 

Q.— Weather, 

The great variations of the weather consequent on 
atmospheric changes, and forming the climate of a dis- 
trict, exert a powerful agency upon plants, and recpiire to 
be well considered and studied. The barometer, thermo- 
meter, and even the hygrometer, to measure the heat and 
moisture and calculate the changes of the atmosphere, 

c 



SCIENCE OF GARDENING. 



will be useful instrument? to the cultivator, as indicating 
wliat tlie senses, however nicely tutored, can never so 
accurately make known. The occurrence of frost, re- 
minding him of the need of protection for some plants, — 
of rain, admonishing him to gather in crops that require 
to be stored while dry, or to plant such as will be bene- 
fited by moisture^ — of gales of wind, pointing out the 
necessity of shelter and support. — may thus often be fore- 
seen and XDro'^dded against. A few simple rules, such as 
a good almanack vrill furnish, relating to the leading signs 
of the weather, may be of great service in gardening. 

Frost commonly occurs when the sky is clear, and 
during the time the moon is above the horizon, or after 
hail storms. A lurid redness in the sky about sun-rise, 
or a very sudden and extensive fall of the barometer, por- 
tends violent winds. Kain generally follows a heavy gale, 
or a sudden fall or rise in the temperature : and cold 
showery weather mostly .succeeds to thunder storms. In 
summer, rain seldom comes with the first cloudiness after 
a week or two of drought, but is lingering and tardy in its 
arrival. Very low clouds, however thin, are commonly 
charged with rain, Xear tidal rivers or the sea, a con- 
tinued rain may be expected if it commence steadilyjust 
about the occurrence of high water. 

Such rtiles might easily be extended to a great length, 
were they of more universal application ; but different 
localities have such various weather symptoms ; and 
general directions of this sort are not entirely and at all 
times to be depended on. They are only tiseful as com- 
mon (not invariable) guides. 

7.—SoiIs. 

These, as far as the mere matter of which they are 
made up is concerned, are of little consequence in them- 
selves. But they are of the highest valtie as the means 
of conveying other things, and may contain ingredients 
which plants will largely feed upon. They may be con- 
sidered with reference to their texture, and their capacity 
for being pervaded by roots, or for receiving liquids au'l 
gases and transmitting them to plants. 



THE AGENTS WHICH AFFECT TLA^: Is 



15 



The mechanical properties or textures of soils are of 
first concern. No soil that is not open, and easily per- 
vaded by air and moisture, and comparatively um-etentive 
of the latter, will ever be fit for growing plants in unless it 
can be reduced to a better state by art. Stiff and unctuous 
clays, with close and fatty bog earth, are entirely unsuit- 
able for the cultivation of plants, until they are thoroughly 
broken up, and drained, and pulverised, and mixed with 
lighter ingredients. The mere draining and working of 
bog soil will do a great deal towards improving its texture. 
But clays will require long tillage, and the liberal use of 
such things as coal-ashes, sand, lime and stone rubbish, 
light manures, or sandy peat, to bring them at all into a 
good condition. And even with these, much time and pa- 
tience will be demanded. Throwing them up in ridges 
during autumn, and leaving them thus till spring, exposed 
to the action of the winter's frosts, will be greatly con- 
ducive to their pulverisation. Very light sandy soils, on 
the other hand, possess faults of texture of an opposite 
description, though they are much more e?.sily remedied. 
They give off water too freely, admit air too thoroughly, 
and become parched and dry in the summer, not being 
able to sustain any crop whose roots lie near the surface, 
or any strong-growing kind of plant. Their defects may 
be corrected by the application of marl and other clays, 
and by the use of such manures as cow and pig dung. 
They should never be ridged up in winter, nor turned 
over more than is really necessary. 

The best kind of soil for garden purposes is a mode- 
rately strong light-coloured loam, or such an alluvial earth 
as is produced by deposits from streams and rivers. 
This will be open, if properly worked, and yet never be- 
come dried up in ordinary summers. It will possess 
sufficient substance not to be soon impoverished, and may 
at any time be got into new " heart " by manure. Chalky 
soils are often, however, good ; and possess the merit of 
keeping away many insects. But soils that are gravelly 
are mostly poor, and easily dried up, and unsatisfactory 
as to produce, and obstructive of the roots of growing 
crops. 

The mineral part of the soil, which is composed of clay. 



16 



SCIENCE OF GARDENIXG. 



lime, and flint-earth in the form of sand and gravel of 
various degrees of fineness,, together ^vitb, sometimes, 
magnesia, iron, and a few other metals, contributes little 
or nothing to the nourishment of plants. These portions 
of the soil appear to be chiefly used mechanically or che- 
mically, in improving the texture and distributing the 
more nutritive parts, or in mixing vith other things, or 
operating upon them, to produce nourishing compounds. 

On these principles, we may easily account for the 
barrenness of stiff clays, dry sands, and, more particularly, 
soils chiefiy consisting of granite sand, as tho^fe in Arran, 
and near Plymouth : vbile in the instance of sand or clay 
from basalt or whinstone, as well as from, limestone and 
chalk, w^hen mixed with other soil, the carbonic acid gas 
tends to promote greater fertility, as in the Lothian s, 
Ayrshire, and Kent. Volcanic rocks, as in the Cam^jagna 
of Rome, are very fertile for the same reason. Xo 
mixture, then, of clay and sand vdll be productive, with- 
out limestone, chalk, cr basalt, (that is, whinstone,) and, 
more particularly, without decayed plants and manures. 

Some mineral substances, such as iron, are injurious to 
soils, and, perhaps, all the metals are so when combined 
with oxygen gas or acids. Many good soils, it is true, 
contain iron, known by the redidish rusty colour i't iin- 
2?arts : but their fertility appears not to be ovang to the 
iron, but to exist in spite of it. 

8. — Manures. 

There is no branch of plant-culture in which a more 
thorough change has been effected of late years than in the 
application of manures. The old-fashioned, substantial, 
simple manures have now very much given way Ijefore 
the use of such as are highly concentrated, or are com- 
pounded chemically, or are administered in a liquid state, 
or contain some single ingredient, which the particular 
crop to be grown appears most to require. 

Two or three ver\^ important results ha^'e followed from 
this alteration in the sjstem of manuring. First, the new 
kinds of manure are generally of easy aiq lication. They 
travel in a small compass, and may often be put on by the 



THE AGENTS WHICH AFrECT PLANTS. 



17 



hand. A great deal of Vv'heeiing or carting is thus saved. 
Secondly, they frequently have the ammonia which they 
contain so fixed by acids as to occasion a prodigious saving 
of this most effective element, and to avoid altogether 
the disagreeable and noxious odours common to the 
older manures. Thkdly, they are sometimes made to 
contain or combine the element or elements on which 
particular crops almost entirely feed ; the researches of 
chemistry having laid bare, to some extent, the consti- 
tuents of many plants, and their consequent requirements. 
These are all properties of the highest interest and the 
greatest value. 

But there remains another view of the case, which it 
will not be wise to neglect. Artificial manures seldom 
act mechanically on the soil. They do not improve its 
texture. Nor does their influence often last long. It is 
trtinsient, and extends but to one or two crops. They 
cause, moreover, little or no additions to the soil. The 
available parts for cultivation do not acquire any extra 
substance or depth by their use. They are likewise too 
stimulating for some cro^^s, especially permanent ones, 
and occasion extravagant growth, without corresponding- 
fertility. On all these points, therefore, the commoner 
manures must be deemed yet in advance of those more 
recently devised. 

On the whole, it will be well to adopt such new manures 
as have been ascertained to be good, (though there are 
numbers that are perfectly worthless,) as a general rule, 
for temporary crops ; with the occasional use of the 
more solid kinds, and the selection of these last alone for 
fruit trees and more lasting crops. 

From the excrements of various animals, mixed with 
partially decayed vegetable matter, such as straw, the best 
possible manure may be obtained. Sheep dung and that 
from_ birds are among the most powerful, and may be 
applied simply, without any admixture. Horse, cow, and 
other manure will be improved by mixing them with 
vegetable substances, and fermenting and turning them 
several times before using. The addition of a little lime 
will render them more thoroughly and more immediately 
efficacious. They should be covered up with earth while 

c 2 



18 



SCIENCE OF GARDENING. 



fermenting, that less of the ammonia which they contain 
may be lost. 

Guano is the dung of birds, obtained from those portions 
of sea-coast, whether in South America or Africa, where 
particular species abound and congregate, and where 
the dung has been deposited and accumulating for ages. 
It is, when obtained pure, an excellent but expensive 
manure for a single crop, and may be applied broadcast 
at the time of putting in the crop, or sown along the drills 
with the seeds or sets, or put on just as the crop is coming 
through the ground. The last is generally the most 
economical process, and the ground should be hoed over 
a few days after it is finished. 

Bone-dust is one of the best manures for firm soils, that 
are not deficient in depth, and it has the merit of being 
clean, and readily applied. It also lasts a considerable 
time. Crushed bones, which are in larger pieces, will be 
even more durable, and are very effective in facilitating 
drainage. 

Liquid manures are exceedingly useful on a small scale, 
and especially in pot-culture. They may consist of urine 
largely dUuted, or the soaking of a dunghill less freely 
reduced, or a mixture of a good handful of guano wdth a 
couple of gallons of water, or any of the same processes 
extended to the required quantity. They can be applied 
safely to groAving crops, and will produce a speedier and a 
more marked effect than other manures, because the nutri- 
tive matter is already in a state of solution. A great deal 
may be done in this way in small gardens. 

More artificial manures will contain, generally, some 
solution of the alkalies, (soda, potash, or ammonia,) satu- 
rating any neutral substance, to render them of convenient 
application ; or they may be of a more compound nature. 
As a rule, these three elements, being those upon which 
plants are more largely nourished, will form the most 
certain bases for manures. 

The properties of manures are to stimulate and excite 
the system of plants into stronger and more luxuriant 
growth, and, in general, if but moderately employed, to 
increase their productiveness. Great caution is, however, 
necessary in adapting the quantity and quality to the 



PRINCIPLES OP CULTIVATION. 



19 



condition of the ground or the plants, and to the objects 
sought to be obtained. Manures are not usually condu- 
cive to a good flowering condition^, unless the soil be very 
poor indeed^ or the plant be much cramped and impover- 
ished in a small pot. And liquid manure -will then be 
most appropriate. Fruit trees usually require manuring, 
but it will depend much on their individual habits and 
character. The more highly cultivated the state of any 
plant, or the more each particular variety owes its per- 
fection to the highest culture^ the more likely it is, in the 
abstract, to want frequent and liberal manuring. Such 
are some of the veiy finest vegetables and fruits, and the 
more richly developed among florists' flowers. 

III. PRTXCIPLES OF CULTIVATIOX. 

It is of little use to know^ of what plants consist, and 
how they live, and to what influences they are subjected, 
if the means by which this knowledge is to be generally 
acted upon and applied be not also understood. The 
former may be the basis, the latter must be the 
superstructure. And although sundry processes may 
already have been incidentally noticed or explained, 
they either require fuller elucidation or putting in diffe- 
rent lights. 

1. — Draining. 

This may almost be called a modern practice, for it is 
but lately that it has come at all conspicuously into vogue. 
It is, however, one of the most decided advances which 
recent art has made, and its advantages will be incalcu- 
lable. It will not be every garden that recjuires draining. 
Some may be composed of soil that is very light and dry, 
and others may have a sufficient slope to carry off all 
surplus water. But where the ground is flattish, and has 
the slightest tendency to stiffness, draining will produce 
an immense improvement to the crops, and to the com- 
fort of working and walking in the garden. 

The first point to be attended to is to drain pretty 
deeply. Shallow drains are never satisfactory, and often 



20 



SCIENCE OF GARDENING. 



come ill the way of the spade. Three feet^ or eveu three 
feet six inches will be about the right depth, with the 
main drain six inches lower. The drains should follow 
the natural fall of the land, and have a tolerably good 
fall, which can be obtained by cutting them a little deeper 
at one end w^here there is no slope in the land. They 
ought to be three inches wide at the bottom, and fourteen 
or fifteen inches at the top, the main drain (which may 
discharge itself into the house drain or any other outfall 
that can be had) being made a little wider. Where tiles 
or pipes can be procured, those with a flat bottom are the 
best, otherwise tiles will require a slate sole to rest upon. 
Pipes of two inches diameter, and three inches for the 
main drain, will be sufficient. In the absence of tiles or 
pipes, each drain may be filled to within fifteen inches of 
the surface with old brick rubbish that is not too small, 
rough stones, broken earthenware, cinders, strong gravel, 
or broken rock or rubble in a rocky district. A few 
branches may then be laid over each, and the same ma- 
terials should be placed over tile drains to within a like 
distance of the surface. The drains may be four or five 
yards o.part, in parallel lines, and the ma,in drain along 
one boundary. 

Plants in pots require special attention as to draining, 
for they are in a more artificial state, and are liable to be 
much injured by superfluous water. In addition to 
putting plenty of drainage in the bottom of the pots, a 
few small pieces of broken stone or brick, with lumpy 
fragments of decayed turf or peat, may be mixed sparingly 
with the soil, to perfect the drainage. 

2. — Operating on Soil. 

Trenching should always follow draining, or the latter 
will act but partially. Unless the ground be stirred pretty 
deeply, half the effect of draining will be lost. Both must 
be done in the autumn or early part of the winter, and 
the ground will then be in a good state for cropping in 
spring. These and all other operations on ground should 
always be done when it is in a moderately dry state. If 
it be worked and trampled while wet, especially when it is 



TRINCIPLES OF CULTIVATION. 



21 



of a stiff Kature, it will coalesce into a kind of crust, which 
Avill greatly spoil its texture. 

Manuring may be done in early winter when the ground 
is somewhat frozen ; as the material can then be wheeled 
on with greater ease, and the ground and paths will be 
less cut up. But the manure should be dug in directly the 
frost is sufficiently gone, or it will lose much of its virtue 
by the exposure. Digging should always be deep and 
thorough, since it changes and incorporates the soil better, 
and allows the air to pass among it more freely. "What- 
ever ground falls vacant in autumn, ought always to be 
dug up in ridges, unless it be very light and shallow, that 
it may derive all the benefit of the winter frost and snow. 
The difference in the ease of working, in the spring, soil 
that has been thus exposed, and such as has been left 
untouched, is most marked and striking. Hoeing, at least 
among growing vegetables, should be deep, and stir the 
ground well, this being quite as important as killing the 
weeds. Raking is always bad, unless where wholly un- 
avoidable, for it tends to encrust over the surface of the 
ground, and render it hard and close. 

3. — Watering. 

This ought to be done with the spout of a can for indi- 
vidual plants, or with a rose for a mass of them. The 
watering-pot must be held as low as possible during the 
operation, that the particles of the earth may not be 
washed into a crust. When watering with a rose, too, it 
w411 be necessary to stir the surface of the ground occa- 
sionally, or it will become baked, and impervious to both 
air and moisture. W^atering or syringing over the heads 
of plants is an important part of the process. 

After watering has once been begun with any out-door 
plants, it will be proper to continue it regularly until rain 
occurs ; otherwise the plants will suffer almost more than 
if they had been left entirely to themselves. If there is 
no danger from frost, the evening is the best period for 
watering plants, as it allows them the whole night for the 
purpose of imbibing and profiting by it. The early morn- 
ing is the safer time at other seasons. Plants in pots will 



SCIENCE or GARDE^'I^'G. 



require to be watered with great constancy, but discrimi- 
nation; giving to each only just what it is seen to need. 
They should be watered solely in mild weather during 
winter, a.s wetness conduces to injury by frost. 

4. — Propagating ly Seeds. 

The most common way of procuring a great number of 
plants of one kind^ is by sowing seed ; indeed, this is the 
means which nature herself has provided, and,, of course, 
it is the most simple and efficacious. 

Eveiy seed has a shell more or less hard, to protect it 
from external injury, and at its base is furnished with 
what is called the seed-pore, (popularly the c\//;.^ which 
performs two important functions, viz., conveys the 
nutrient pulp to the seed while in a young and green 
state, and previous to its becoming ripe, and also is the 
point from which the roots and stem of the yovrng plant 
proceed after germinating. 

"Within the shell is the kernel, consisting of the embryo 
plant, with its radicle or root, its gemlet or stem, and the 
neck between these, which afterwards becomes the crown, 
besides the seed-lobe or lobes, containing materials fur 
nouriishing it in the first stage of growth. 

In order to excite the embryo into action, and induce 
it to grow, four things ai'e indispensable — heat, water, air, 
and darkness. 

The heat is requh-ed to soften the nutrient materials in 
the lobes, but without water it would be more likely to 
harden these. Pure water is more appropriate than water 
containing humin or other rich materials, that which is 
contained in the lobes being sufficiently rich. 

Freely circulating air is indispensable for supplying 
oxygen gas, and carrying off carbonic acid gas. a process 
the reverse of what takes place in leaves expo^red to sun- 
light. For the same rea.son light is injurious, by carrying 
off the oxygen gas requisite in this stage of growth. 

In solving any sort of seed, these four circumstances 
must be carefully attended to. On account of the ab- 
sence of heat, accordingly, seeds will not vegetate during 



SIED SOWING. 



23 



frost ; without a sufficient supply of water, they will not 
come up when sown in dry sand ; for want of air they 
will not come up if too deep in the ground ; and if not 
duly covered, they will not come up from having too 
much light. 

Seeds, however, often germinate in the light, such as 
corn in wet seasons, before it is cut ; but they do not, in 
these cases, produce strong plants, as the root requires 
to shoot away from the light, as much as the stem into 
the light. Birch seed succeeds best when not covered. 
These ai'e exceptions, not rules. 

Most seeds are benefited by steeping them for an hour 
or two, previous to sowing, in pure water, which, in the 
cold weather of spring, may be made milk-warm. Pickles, 
train-oil, urine, and other steeps, must, in most cases be 
injurious ; and will never, as is ignorantly pretended, 
destroy the eggs of insects, even if such be among the 
seed, of which we know^ not a single instance, not even 
the eggs of the turnip-fly, as lately asserted. 

Too much water, however, will be certain to injure the 
seeds, by gorging them, and rendering them dropsical and 
liable to rot. But, on the other hand, many seeds will 
vegetate in water alone, provided the vessel in which they 
are placed be open at the top for the admission of air ; 
so that a good supply of water is absolutely essential for 
furthering this process. It is important, however, to 
avoid both extreme drought and moisture, in the propa- 
gation of plants by seed, either of w^hich is more or less 
injurious. Hence the prox)riety of sowing seeds when the 
weather is only moderately wet, and the ground not 
saturated with moisture, in order that the seeds may 
obtain a due supply, but not a redundance of water. 

The seed-lobes, after having parted with some of their 
nutrient matter, for the production of the roots, protrude 
themselves from the soil, expand, and are changed into 
seed leaves. They then perform functions of a totally 
different nature, and proceed to prepare pulp from the sap 
now taken up by the young root, for the support and 
development of the stem and leaves. ^Yhen these latter 
have become sufficiently expanded to be capable of pro- 
viding pulp for themselves, and the otlier parts of the 



24 



SCIENCE OF GARDENING. 



plant, the seed leaves, having falfilled the office assigned 
to them by nature, soon wither and decay. 




The seed leaves, are, therefore, of such vital imj^ortance 
to plants, at an early stage of their existence, that if they 
are destroyed at this j^eriod of their gro\vth, either by 
insects, such as the turnip-fly, snails, slugs, or grubs, or by 
birds, frost, or other casualties, they seldom recover, and 
the whole crop generally perishes. This is not unfre- 
quently the case with young turnips, radishes, and cab- 
bages : and the only alternative, where it is permitted to 
occur, is to dig the ground slightly over, and sow it afresh. 
The greatest care, however, should be exercised to prevent 
such an accident, as it will frequently throw the crojDtoo 
late to be of any real use. 

Propagation by seeds, then, being the most natural and 
easy means of multiplying plants, should ordinarily be 
preferred. But some plants, as the foreign geraniums, 
and most double flowers, do not ripen seed ; in others, 
as the rose, the seeds are generally two years in the ground 
before they vegetate, and do not produce flowers for 
several years after; and in other cases, each seed will pro- 
duce a plant essentially different from the parent species. 
This latter circumstance has been taken advantage of by 
gardeners and florists, and hence are produced the almost 
innumerable beautiful varieties of the dahlia, chrysanthe- 
mum, heart's-ease, tulip, ranunculus, and many otliers 



PLANTS MULTIPLIED BY DIVISION. 



25 



too numerous to mention. In culinary vegetables, also, 
most of our best sorts of cabbage, lettuce, and other 
similar kinds, have been j^roduced from seed. These are 
only to be obtained, ho^vever, by vhat is termed " cross- 
fertilisation," or hybridising, which is simply transferring 
the pollen, or small yellovr or red dust, from the anthers 
of a flower of one sort, to the summit of the pistil or 
female part of the flower of another sort, and thus pro- 
ducing seed, the plants from which will partake of the 
nature of both the parent species. 

The frequent occurrence of such circumstances as those 
before-mentioned, has led to the application of art in the 
propagation of plants, and several methods have succes- 
sively been devised, for multiplying particular kinds, in a 
difterent manner than by sowing seed. Indeed, to such 
an extent have the various systems been carried, that 
propagation by seed has now been almost entirely super- 
seded, except with such kinds as are only of annual or 
biennial duration, or are of herbaceous habits. In the 
following arranerement, it will be seen that the difterent 
methods have been treated of in the order in which they 
vere naturally suggested. 

5. — P ropafjatlng by division of the Poofs. 

Every root has what is called the crown or neck, and 
in some tuberous roots, as the potato, a similar part is 
called the eye, attached to which is the body of the root, 
and from this the fibres with their feeding tips or mouths 
are produced. 

The crown, neck, or eye, is in most roots the only part 
of them that can send up a stem. The exceptions to tijis, 
are the roots of mint, horse-radish, iris, Jerusalem arti- 
choke, couch or quitch grass, and a troublesome weed in 
gardens called ash-weed, from the leaf resembling that 
of the ash, the smallest piece of the roots of any of which 
will grow, because they seem to be rather under-ground 
stems than real roots. Rhubarb, likewise, and sea-kale 
will generally produce plants from a piece of the roots, 
though entirely destitute of eyes. They are, however, a 
great length of time in performing this "process, and the 

D 



26 



SCIENCE OF GARDENING. 



practice of propagating them in this manner cannot be 
recommended for gardening purposes. Dandelions, sow- 
thistles, and the like, might also be adduced as further 
illustrations of this pruiciple, and teach us the fallacy of 
attempting to destroy them by merely hoeing off their 
tops, as the only method of getting rid of them is to 
eradicate every particle of the roots. 




Roots to show tlie neck or crown ; a, in shrubs and trees ; h, on 
the carrot ; c, on herbs ; d, on biilbs. 



It will follow, that with these, and a few other similar 
exceptions, roots will only be capable of being divided 
when they have more crowns or eyes than one, as in the 
small bulbs that grow at the base of the larger bulbs in 
lilies, daffodils, tulips, and snow-drops ; the eyes in pota- 
toes, and rhubarb ; the crowns in primroses, auriculas^ 
sea-pinks or thrift, dahlias, p^eonies, and double rockets ; 
and the side branches in border box and carnations. 

In many of the plants just mentioned, such, for instance, 
as bulbs and primroses, the different crowns may be easily 
separated from each other by the hand, as they may 
generally be broken off or pulled asunder, with a good 
portion of roots attached to each division, and being thus 
well provided with roots, will grow without the slightest 
difficulty. These remarks are a.lso applicable to dwarf- 
box, which only requires to be slipped or broken off, with 
a few roots to each division, to render success certain, as 
it will sel dom grow without each piece is allowed to retain 



PLANTS MULTIPLIED BY LAYERS, ETC. 27 



a few roots. But there are others, such as dahlias, paeonies, 
and rhubarb, which cannot be properly separated by the 
hand, and vdth. these the crown or eye ought to be cut with 
a sharp knife, so as not to tear or bruise the parts ; and 
each division should, if possible, have a piece of the body 
of the root, and also some fibres, with their tips uninjm-ed. 
This, however, is not indispensable, for the crovm or eye 
alone will often grow without possessing any fibres at the 
time of planting, as is the case wdth auriculas; though 
the fibres vdll, in very few instances, succeed, without 
having some part of the body of the root, or of the crown, 
attached to them. 

The chief points then to be attended to in the propa- 
gation of plants, by dividing the roots, is to see that each 
division has, at least, a few roots, and either a bud or eye, 
or the rudiment of one. 

This mode of multiplying and increasing plants, it will 
be seen, is almost as natural as propagation by seed, 
except that, by the latter, plants difi'use their own seed, 
and increase their own species ; while, by the one now 
under consideration, the assistance of man is necessary to 
perform the operation for them. It is now, however, very 
seldom practised, except with a few common sorts, and 
herbs, as by the methods yet remaining to be detailed, a 
much greater number of young plants may be obtained. 

i 6. — Propagating hy Offsets, Layers, and StccJcers. 
I- Many plants, instead of having a number of crowns or 
(eyes, have only one, and send off short stems like the daisy 
^and houseleek, or large runners like the sweet violet, the 
I ground ivy, and the strawberry, with young plants at the 
' end, which readily take root, and may either be allowed to 
do so after cutting the runner, or before the separation, if 
it is required to make them rather stronger. 

The time for doing this must be in some measure regu- 
lated by the growth of the offsets, and by the season of 
the year ; for it is important that all such plants should 
be well rooted and established in the soil, before the 
usual period for the commencement of autumnal frosts. 

When the offsets are not naturally capable of forming 
roots of themselves, as in the carnation, an operation 



28 



SCIENCE OF CxAEDENIXG. 



called l':iiicrin[i y< performed, vrliicli C'J^=^isl^: of interruptiDg 
the passage of the pulp downvrards. by maki'^g an upAvard 
slit with a penknife half through the siem, candt by several 
other methods ; then, fixing the cut part a little under 
ground with a hooked peg, root-nbres vrill form, and the 
rooted layer may, of course^ be removed, and planted 
elsewhere. 

The operation of layering being an important one. and 
capable of being performed on a great number of plants, it 
is highly necessaiy that it slioukl be properly understood. 
Much depends on the manner in which the slit 'Or incision 
is made ; for, in layering carnations, if. by any means, the 
knife be suffered to pass mc^re than half way through the 
stem, it will be exceedingly liable to be brokei], or even to 
rot ofi\; therefore, the knife (vrhich must be a very sharp 
one) should be guided with great care, and the incision 
commenced about a Cjuarter of an inch below the joint to 
be layered, passing the blade of the knife precisely through 
the centre of the stem, to abotit half, an inch above the 
joint : then cut off, neatly and smoothly, the tip or end. of 




The operation of layering siiown in the Carnation. 

the tongue thus formed, as, if this is left jagged or rough, 
it will absorb too much moistttre.and be very liable to rut, 
thus preventing the layer from rooting. The layer should 



PLANTS MULTIPLIED BY LAYERS, 



29 



in no case be placed deeper than an inch in tlie soil, and a 
little fine and rich mould should be introduced to cover it 
which will prevent it from becoming too wet. Unless the 
slit in the stem is made to pass through the middle of a 
joint, it will never succeed in forming roots. 

The lower part of the stems intended to be layered, 
should be deprived of their leaves ; these must not be 
plucked off, but cut with a sharp knife, to within a short 
distance of the stem, and none of the leaves should be left 
that would be buried in the soil when the shoot is fastened 
down. Carnations should be layered as soon as the flower- 
ing season is nearly over, and none of the stems which had 
produced flowers should be employed for this purpose. 

Many other plants, such as double wallflowers, lilacs, 
honeysuckles, roses, sweetbiiar, laui-els, and most shrubs 
and evergreens, may be propagated by layers, it being a 
very certain, as well as an easy mode of getting a number 
of plants. In layering roses, however, and other plants 
of shrubby habits, a different method must be adopted 
to that of layering carnations, for with carnations, the 
stems being exceedingly brittle, it is necessary to tongnz 
them, in order to check the flow of the pulp ; but with 
shrubby plants, such as roses and laurels, all that is re- 
quired is to run a penknife through the shoot to be 
layered, at a bud or joint, and having slightly twisted 
the shoot, so as to open or crack the bark round the part 
so cut, bury it about three inches below the surface of 
the soil, securing it with a hooked peg, and treading the 
soil slightly round it, so as to place it almost erect. In 
this state it will soon form roots at the joint in which 
the incision was made, and may then be separated from 
the parent plant, and placed where required. 

From the roots of some trees which lie near the surface 
of the soil, a quantity of young shoots are produced called 
su<:}cers. These are generally very unsightly, and deprive 
the tree of much of that nourishment which should be 
devoted to the support of the flowers and fruit. They 
should, therefore, never be allowed to remain in such 
situations, even though they were destroyed : bat they are 
all capable of forming a fresh plant, if taken up v>-ith care. 
Thev are generally most abundant about the roots of 

D 2 



30 



SCIENCE OF GAEDE^^I^'C;. 



gooseberries, currants. plum>, lilacs, aud roses, but are 
found occasionally with most shrubby plauts or trees. The 
suckers of gooseberries, currant?, and fruit trees, should 
always be eradicated and thrown away, as they will never 
produce good fruit ; those of lilacs, and other flowering 
shrubs and trees, may be removed in the autumn, and 
planted in any required situation, provided care is taken 
to lift them with sufficient roots, and, if possible^ with root- 
fibres and their tips attached to them ; but even these 
are inferior to the plants produced from layers, as they 
will not come into flower for a great length of time, while 
layers usually bloom much sooner. 

Roses, especially the common sorts, produce excellent 
suckers, w^hich answer well for stocks, to bud the choicest 
sorts upon. The suckers from the better kind of roses, 
will flower best if converted into layers. 

In the monthly rose, suckers ma.ke the best plants, as 
they do also in the sweetbriar ; but this does not produce 
many. Such suckers, when long and epusily bent, may 
also be treated as layers ; and as many new plants may 
be obtained as there are buds on the sucker, by making a 
ring cut through the bark below each bud, and laying 
over the whole sucker, when pegged down, a shallovr 
covering of rather dry earth, when a stem will rise from 
each bud, and roots grow from each ring of bark that has 
been cut — a good mode of multiplying rose trees. 

7. — Propagating ly Slq^s or Cuttings. 

The method of propagating plants by layers being 
troublesome and protracted, has led to the introduction 
of a much more simple and speedy process, and one by 
which a much greater number of plauts may be obtained. 

The younger twigs or branches of many plants and 
shrubs, and even the trimks of some trees, such as the 
willow and elder, if planted in the ground, and properly 
treated, will not only continue to live, and retain their 
vital principle almost as well as a layer attached to the 
parent plant, but will speedily prodtice roots from their 
lower extremities, and these will extend themselves into 
the soil; supply the stem with nourishment, to enable it 



PLANTS MULTIPLIED BY CUTTINGS. 



31 



to form leaves and branches, and, in course of time, attain 
to the size and vigour of the parent plant. Every tree, 
shrub, or plant, that is capable of producing buds, may 
be readily multiplied in this manner ; for each bud con- 
tains in itself the rudiment of another plant, and only 
requires to be separated from the parent plant, and 
judiciously treated, to enable it to produce leaves, shoots, 
fruit, or seed, and roots whereby these several parts may 
be nourished and brought to perfection. 

This is one of the most important discoveries and 
achievements of science, as by it almost every description 
of plants maybe multiplied, that do not produce seeds, or 
are not capable of propagating and extending their species 
by seed. 

We have above observed, that each bud is capable of 
producing a distinct plant, and this is sufficiently proved 
by the vine and potato, though, in these, the young buds 
are usually termed eyes. But where young shoots are 
abundact, or where they are slender and of a watery 
nature, it is important that each shoot intended for a 
cutting, should have three or more buds above the surface 
of the soil in which they are planted. 

To ensure success in the performance of this operation, 
attention must be paid to the following general particulars. 
The cuttings should invariably be made of the young and 
newly formed wood, but it is important that the lower 
extremity of them should not be too young and soft, other- 
wise it will become gorged with moisture and rot ; neither 
should it be too old and hard, for, in this case, it would 
not imbibe sufficient moisture to keep it alive, much less 
to induce it to grow. Therefore^ in selecting shoots of 
any plant for cuttings, care should be taken to cut them 
off just at the junction of the old and young wood, by 
which means either of the above extremes will be avoided. 
Again, shoots intended for cutting should always be taken 
off just below a bud, as they will only form roots from 
the buds or eyes, and if a bud is not left at the base, the 
end of the cutting will be liable to rot ; the ends also 
should be cut as smoothly as possible, taking care not to 
bruise the bark, or leave it jagged. 

Cuttings, like seeds, require a due degree of heat, 



32 



scie:^ce or f.ArDi:NiNG. 



moisture, and shade, to enable tliem to form roots, and 
establish themselves in the soil. Heat is indispensable, 
in order to stimulate them into action, and induce them 
to grow ; therefore, the practice of placing cuttings in a 
border with a northern aspect, is extremely injudicious, 
for, though they may thus be shaded from sun-light, they 
vrill be deprived of a sufficient degree of heat, and any 
artificial shading would answer ecjually well. A certain 
quantity of moisture is likevvuse necessary for them, but 
an undue supply of it has a most injurious tendency, and 
will speedily cause them to rot : consecjuently, where 
they are planted in the open grotmd, a spot with a very 
light soil should be chosen for this purpose, and when 
they are placed in pots, an abundance of white sand 
should be mingled with the soil, or, with very delicate 
plants, pure sand alone is preferable. 

To facilitate the escape of water, from the pots contam- 
ing cuttings, a good drainage is of first importance : and, 
for this pm-pose, an abundance of pieces of broken pots, 
old bricks, or coal ashes, should be placed in the bottom of 
the pot : indeed, the pot should be, at least, half filled with 
materials of this description ; and with cuttings that are 
diflicult to strike, a good practice is to let the lower end 
of the cutting rest on some such materials as those above- 
mentioned, which v>-ill effectually prevent it from rotting 
at the base, and cause it to produce roots more speedily. 

As the life of the cuttings must be somewhat feeble till 
the roots are formed, and as an exposure to light would 
induce them to evaporate what little moisture they contain, 
and, consequently, cause them to Avither and die, the more 
delicate and tender kinds, and those of a watery nature, 
with soft and juicy stems, should be covered with a bell- 
glass, and have a piece of garden mat or canvas placed 
over this to shade them during the heat of the day Tand, 
where a hand-glass is not procurable, a few willow, or other 
branches, vshould be bent over them, in order to support 
the material used for shading ; but with hardy trees and 
shmbs this protection is unnecessary. For the same 
reasons, the cuttings should be deprived of most of their 
leaves, and any tendency to produce fiower-buds must be 
timely checked, as either too many leaves^ or any flowers, 



PLANTS MULTIPLIED ET CUTTINGS. 



S3 



would exhaust the sap or pulj) contained in the cutting, 
and very much weaken it, or wholly destroy it. Air is 
also of some importance in the process of propagation by 
cuttings, as without air they will become too weak and 
slender; therefore, where they are placed in the open 
ground, they should not be planted too deep, and with 
those which are kept under a hand-glass, the front of the 
glass should be slightly tilted with a brick or block of wood 
in fine weather, in order to admit a due quantity of air. 

As most plants may be multiplied by cuttings, and as 
this operation may be performed by the inexperienced 
without difficulty, it appears desirable that a few brief 
directions should be given for increasing different descrip- 
tions of plants in tliis manner, and it will be convenient 
to arrange these under three divisions, viz., those which 
produce hard and woody stems, and are perfectly hardy, 
such as gooseberries, currants, and other hardy trees and 
shrubs ; those which have more watery stems, and require 
some protection in winter, such as pelargoniums (impro- 
perly called geraniums) and dahlias; and such as are of a 
woody nature, and not hardy, as many heaths, myrtles, 
and others of similar habits. 

To propagate gooseberries, currants, and other hardy 
shrubs, either flowering, or fruit-bearing, by cuttings, due 
attention must be paid to selecting the shoots, preparing 
them, and planting them out ; either weak and slender, 
or strong and luxuriant shoots should be rejected, and 
those of medium size and strength chosen, for very large 
shoots would most probably die, and small weak ones 
would never produce good plants ; therefore, in the 
autumn, (which is the 2^1'oper time for performing this 
operation,) after the trees have shed their leaves, the 
shoots of the previous summer's growth, and of moderate 
size and strength, should be taken off for the purpose 
required. Where it is practicable, each shoot should be 
broken or slipped off v\'ith a small portion of the old stem 
attached to its base, as this will greatly- facilitate the pro- 
duction of roots ; for there are always a number of buds 
about the base of each shoot, and it is from buds alone 
that roots can be expected to form. This may be done 
with great propriety in the gooseberry, as gooseberry trees 



34 



SCIENCE OF GARDENING. 



are even benefited by having their superfluous shoots thus 
slipped out; but currant trees, on the contrary, must not 
be so treated, for the buds which are destined to produce 
fruit, are generally found at the base of the young shoots. 
Those, therefore, which cannot be treated in this manner, 
should be cut off just below a bud, and the lower end of 
the cutting should be made perfectly smooth, while the 
upper end should be cut off in a sloping direction, close to 
another bud. The cuttings should be made about six inches 
in length, though three inches will be sufficient when the 
young shoots are scarce, and all the buds should be taken 
off except the two uppermost ones, and the one at the base. 
When they are thus prepared, they should immediately be 
planted out, which may be done by opening a trench about 
two or three inches in depth, and having made one side of 
it erect by chopping it with the spade, insert the cuttings 
into it, and replace the soil about them, pressing it hghtly 
round each, and leaving only the two buds or eyes out of the 
ground. This is far preferable to the common practice of 
dibbling them in, which presses the soil too closely about 
their lower extremities, and frequently causes them to 
rot, by retaining too much moistm-e about them. 

Dahlias, pelargoniums, and other similar plants, which 
are desired to be propagated by cuttings, must receive a 
very different kind of treatment, and require much greater 
attention. Being themselves of a very Avatery and juicy 
nature, it is obvious that they will not strike if they are 
left exposed to the alternations of wet and drought, so 
common in our changeable climate ; therefore, to preserve 
them from such injuries, they should constantly be covered 
with a hand-glass, or kept in the window of a dwelhng- 
house, while this process is being performed. The hand- 
glass, when used, will likewise have the effect of retaining 
a sufficient degree of heat, and preserving the atmosphere 
within it in a moist state, as well as afford means for 
shading the cuttings. They should be taken from the 
extremities of the shoots, and deprived of all their lower 
leaves, but not of their buds, and will be much more 
likely to succeed, if only the summits of each shoot are 
used for this purpose; as, unlike bard- wooded plants, they 
will not thrive so well if the tops of the shoots are cut off. 



PLAXT3 MULTIPLIED BY CUTTIX&S. 



35 



The reason of this is, that if the cuttings are wounded at 
both ends, they will lose a much greater portion of their 
sap or juice, and be much more likely to die. "When they 
are taken off, (which should uniformly be just below 
a bud;) they may either be planted out in a light soil in a 
southern situation, and a hand-glass placed over them, or, 
what is much better, may be planted from six to ten in a 
pot, in shallow pots well di-ained, and placed under a 
hand-glass, in a warm situation. They will occasionally 
rec[uire sprinkling with water from a pot with a fine rose, 
and constant shading from the heat of the sun, as well as 
protection from cold nights, both of which latter purposes 
may be accompHshed by placing a piece of garden mat 
over the hand-glass. In this situation, and with "this 
treatment, they will speedily form roots and grow, when 
they may be repotted, or planted out, as desked. Where 
the cuttings are taken from the roots, (such as dahlias,) a 
small portion of the crown of the root should be taken 
off, attached to each cutting, which will cause them to 
form roots much more speedily. 

There are a few plants which are cultivated for orna- 
ment, such as heaths, myrtles, and some others, which are 
exceedingly difficult to propagate, and demand even more 
attention than those last treated of. These may be multi- 
plied precisely in the same manner as pelargoniums, ex- 
cept that they can be placed more numerously in the pots, 
and must be prepared and planted as soon as possible after 
they are taken off, and each pot should have a small bell- 
glass over it, instead of placing a number of pots under one 
large glass. Failure in the propagation of such plants as 
these, is solely attributable to the circumstance of water 
being allowed to stagnate about the roots; therefore, the 
cuttings should be planted in pure white or silver (not 
river) sand, and have an abundance of drainage. The 
inside of the glasses should also occasionally be wiped with 
a dry cloth, as the moisture from evaporation generally 
accumulates on the inside of the glass, and if it is allowed 
to drip on the cuttings, will seriously injure them. Great 
care is also necessary, with regard to shading them from 
the sun, as, if this is once neglected, they will unavoidably 
perish. Some interest and amusement may be occasioned 



36 



SCIENCE OF GARDENING 



by putting the cuttings of various plants in a bottle c 
taining water^ such as an Eau de Cologne bottle, and =1;- - 
pending this in the window of a room in spring. By 
changing the water occasionally, roots will soon be emitted, 
when their growth may be easily watched. They : - 
potted as soon as the roots get about an in:! '-'—i- 
Myrtles may be readily multiplied in this wr y. 

By attention to these few plain directio-?. : i-y v lant 
that is capable of being multix^Hed by cutt:i:_^ . " f 
propagated with facility and success; andav : .t: e : i- " 
i^lants but will submit to this operation, it is Lipei i:.:.: 
the above remarks will be found sufficient to guide even 
the most inexperienced in the performance of this im- 
portant and useful branch of gardening. 

8. — Propagating hy grafthig, 

When particnlar sorbs of shrubs and trees cannot be 
procured from seed, or when the seedlings would be a 
number of years in blowing or fruiting, slips of the-e ?:r"=. 
or even buds, are cut off. and instead of planting :-_r:__ 
the ground, they are fitted to a cut made in anoiLei 
able tree or shrub called the5f(> :-7j,byan operation variously 
performed, termed graff.ing, which can only be properly 
taught by a master, and not by a book. 

The principle upon which the union takes place is. that 
the pulp from the cutting descends to its junction with 
the stock, where, being excluded from the air a.nd light by 
a ball of j)repared clay, it forms woody fibres instead of 
roots, as it might have done in the ground : while, at the 
same time, the sap from the stock r'^es Ir-t : the 
whose leaves convert it into pulp. 

When the textui-e of the wood is soiier in tiie : :li 
than in the stock, the latter interrupts the dr- :^ : 
the pulp, and forms a c-.k-ing scar; when the : ; 
has a harder texture tl::.-: :-e -:ock, the contre - 
place. 

In the practice of grafting, only the sorts of t'L r 
similar species succeed. A pear cutting, fir ins:^. „ r 
be grafted on a quince or apple stock : '; ..: : : ; plum 
or cheriy stock. The apple, howerer.. .;;:;re , . .vhen 



PLANTS MULTIPLIED BY GRAFTING. 



37 



grafted on tlie hawthorn or the mountain ash, though 
much better when grafted on a crab stock. 




a, the Pavia lutea, a plant, which never attains the full size of a 
tree, cleft-grafted on the horse-chestnut, h, a tree of great size. 
It is remarkable that the Pavia is much enlarged near the junc- 
tion c, like a tree near the ground, a circumstance which would 
not have occurred but for the gi-aft. The bark of each remains 
distinct, d, the white-lime tree grafted on the European lime 
tree, e; each growing in diameter according to its particular 
nature, without any intermixture at the line of graft, c ; a verti- 
cal section, /, of an almond-tree, /, cleft-grafted on a prunus, g, 
showing that not one of the characteristics of the two individuals 
ever passes the line of junction, c, c, any more than a spur grafted 
on the comb of the cock ever changes its hard horny nature for the 
soft fleshy nature of the comb. 

When one branch of a growing tree or shrub is grafted 
to the branch of another growing plant near it, the pro- 
cess is termed inarching, but this system is seldom prac- 
tised, except with rare and choice plants. When a bud 
from one tree is inserted into the bark of another tree, 
it is termed budding, and this is exceedingly advan- 
tageous with rose trees, for a fine standard rose may 
thus be obtained by simply inserting buds of good sorts 
on a stock of the wild rose or sweetbriar. It is also very 
useful in filling up the breaches in peach or other fruit 
trees trained to a wall, which are sometimes occasioned 
by the decaying of a large branch. 

E 




3S 



SCIENCE OF GABDEEmG. 



9. — Planting. 

It has prev:o-.-?lT cern suzrested that tMs operation 
sliould be perfi.LiT;". :i: ' j :v showery weather. It 
must never re : : : ::eL, in planting, that a plant is a 
living ihiiL^^ F:. le =:n it should not be kept out 
of the gr : I. : - : : :^ e. lowed to dry, or these last be 
much cripple:!, T :e :_e ■ earth should also be placed 
about the roors ~:_ e: : care and gentleness, and not 
pressed upon them : . : "i : lently. October and November 
are the best mo'-::li= planting trees and shrubs, 
because :lir" i r -Le:: : : .nparatiTely at rest, and the 
weather is . 1-7 11-1 : _ ! : uiet. Where little check is 
required to be ^: ee : er : th to the roots must be 

obtained, if p o ^ = : 1 - - e ? e not crashed or preyed 

against too rudelv in ; _ _: ;::e^', 

Some recommend :_e :i :e^= :: : iddling, which con- 
sists in mixing up soil an:l ~ "e: into a kmd of thin 
paste, and dipping the roots : 1 ^ _ l:.nts in this ; or, in 
the cases of larger things, plan:ing liiem in a hole thus 
prepared. As ordinaiily pureued, however, the plants 
might 5..S vrell be placed in moi'tar or cement; for, as 
soon 8 - mud dries ^ :: einies a hard cake, wMch 
neither T7B.:er nor air C3.n -.neroughly penetrate, and 
which will partly or altogether prevent tiie roots freni 
extendiDg. If adopted at all, it shonld only be in 
gome mo dined manner, ::r such things as cabbages or 
broccoli. 

10. — Pruning. 
Pruning is for the purpose of preventing extra Inxuri- 
ance, of throwing plen: ? in: : ? n jwering or jfruit-bearing 
state, or of preserTlng^ ^:nie kinds from d^eneracy. 
Very strong and Teiy — e ilv shoots alike require most 
pruning; for the on^ :1 nnll be too vigorous, and the 
other too feeble, to be pre :ln:T:--e, But the sickly 
shoots of X-*^3-^ts should be r: ._t 1 back much closer 
than the luxuriant ones : for tne object is to produce 
entirely new ones in the former case, while only shorter 
branches are desired in the latter, and hard pruning 
would merely tend to develop such as were sumlarly 
strong. 



FLOWZRIXG AND FRUITIXG. 



39 



It is lateral branches and spurs that mostly bear 
flowers and fruit in some plants^ and pruning is intended 
to multiply these. Hybrid plants, and those of which 
the sorts have been greatly improved by culture, are 
such as chiefly require priming. Stopping the young 
shoots of many kinds may sometimes be preferable, as 
it hinders the plants from wastixig thek strength unduly. 
Even removing the buds that are not required to develop 
just after they have burst, may often be advantageously 
practised. Indeed, summer pruning is of more conse- 
quence than is generally believed for plants that will not 
bleed much, especially if they have to be trained, or if 
any particular kind of new gro\vth is wanted. Late in 
the autumn, or early in the winter or spring, are, hovr- 
ever, the principal times for pruning. It may be ex- 
tended to the roots in certain cases, where extreme 
woodiness is wanted to be restrained. 

11,— Flowering and Fridting, 
Both of these states are generally to be brought about, 
where they do not naturally occur with sufficient readi- 
ness or force, by a series of checks. Whatever promotes 
strong and rank growth is decidedly against them. The 
perfect npening of the wood, and, in fact, the complete 
maturity of all the parts, such as a sunny summer and an 
exposed situation will produce, are necessary to the full 
development of these tendencies. Transplanting, with- 
holding manm-e or water, judicious pruning, exposure to 
sun and air, keeping the roots near the sm-face of the 
ground, slightly raising the plant above the general level, 
shallow soil, and thorough draining, are the best things 
to produce fertility, when it does not show itself at the 
usual period: and, with the exception of stinting the 
supply of manure and water, they will be beneficial at 
all times. Deep planting, or imperfect drainage, are 
exceedingly bad ; and manure will ordinarily be adverse 
to the production of flowers. For plants in pots that 
are prone to become too vigorous, cramping the roots 
diminishing the supplies of water, and putting them a 
good deal in the open sunshine, will do much towards 
restoring them to the desii'ed condition. 



40 



SCIENCE OF GAKDENING. 



12. — Sheltering and Protecting* 

Shelter from winds should be given by loose and 
meshy, not solid materials. Trees and shrubs are better 
for the purpose than walls, as they exhaust the force of 
the currents, while walls only divert and increase its 
power. Hurdles filled in loosely with reeds or rough 
laths, or branches of pine or furze, are also preferable, in 
point of shelter, to closely boarded ones, for the same 
reason. 

Shade from the sun's rays should, in like manner, be 
thin and partial only. A few fir branches stuck around 
the plant to be shaded, or some very thin canvas or 
gauze stretched over it, will generally suffice ; the object 
being merely tp break the extreme power of the sun's 
rays, and not to shut them out entirely. Anything dense 
or opaque is therefore objectionable. Mulching applied 
over the roots, to keep the soil very moist, will be a 
good substitute for shade in some cases. Plants rarely 
want shading, unless when they have been newly re- 
moved, or are in bloom. 

Protection from frost may be secured by simply inter- 
cepting the radiating process. Whatever keeps plants 
moderately dry at the roots will greatly help to protect 
them ; for frosts act far less upon them at that time than 
when they are in a wet state. A temporary pent-house, 
or small tent-like canopy, open at the sides, will occa- 
sionally be sufficient both to keep plants dry and to 
prevent radiation. But in very severe weather they 
may be covered up more closely, bearing in mind that 
the point always to attain is to stop radiation rather 
than to communicate additional heat. 

When plants have, by the sudden occurrence of frost 
or any other accident, become slightly frozen, and their 
tissue is not actually destroyed, they may often be saved 
by watering them with cold water just before sun-rise 
in the morning, and covering them over with a mat or 
other object which will keep them in the dark until 
they have gradually thawed. The design is to prevent 
the sun from shining upon them till they are quite 
restored. 



THE ACCIDENTS OF CULTIVATION. 



41 



13. — Rotation of Crops. 
Such an arrangement as the change of crops becomes 
necessary because different plants exhaust the soil of 
particular elements, and are more or less gross and ex- 
travagant in their habits ; so that where they have 
grown one year they will have so much withdrawn the 
kind of food they require, as to be incapable of attaining 
any perfection on the same plot in the following season. 
Other kinds, however, coming after them, may not need 
anything like so much of the same element, or may not 
even want it at all. The practice likewise causes a saving 
of manure, for when the food a crop requires has not 
been abstracted from the soil by a previous crop, manure 
will sometimes be superfluous. Potatoes, scarlet-runners, 
broccoli, and the cabbage tribe, particularly demand a 
fresh soil yearly. Pansies, hyacinths, and other bulbs 
and florists' flowers that are of hybrid origin, are simi- 
larly fastidious, if they are to be grown to great per- 
fection. 

By ridging up the ground in winter for vegetable 
crops, and thus admitting new gases from the air, and 
salts from snow and rain, the rotation plan of cropping 
becomes less necessary, though it may never be entirely 
dispensed with. Perhaps, when the precise food which 
every individual crop requires, and the manures fully 
capable of supplying such are more thoroughly known, 
and experimentally tested, the necessity for changing 
yearly the vegetable tenants of any particular piece of 
land that best suits a certain tribe, may be almost if 
not altogether annihilated. 

IV.— THE ACCIDENTS OF CULTIVATION. 

In giving practical effect to the principles of gardening, 
there will be a number of things requisite to be obtained, 
and a multitude of little cross agencies to avoid or to 
remove. These are here, for convenience, termed the 

accidents " of cultivation ; some of them being mere 
adjuncts to the art, and others of only casual occurrence. 
We shall only advert to two or three of the principal of 
them. 

E 2 



42 



SCIENCE OF GARDENING. 



1. — Tools and Conveniences. 

No one can garden well, or do as much work, or per- 
form it as easily, with a bad tool. And though the 
proverb affirms that a bad workman is sure to find 
fault with his tools," it is equally true that a good work- 
man will rarely be found using an inferior implement. 
It is most essential to comfort and progress in gardening 
that tools should be well and neatly made, and never 
be too large or clumsy. A handy tool, it has often been 
said, will almost work itself. Country smiths are very 
seldom capable of either making or mending a good 
implement ; on which account they should be procured 
from towns, or at least be of town manufacture. 

Attention should be paid, in choosing tools, to the 
length and curves of the handles, and of the metal parts, 
that they may suit the height of the workman, and 
enable him to use them with the least possible exertion 
and stooping. 

Forks and deep hoes, or small picks, are most im- 
portant tools in a vegetable garden, for stirring the 
ground among the crops. For merely cleaning the 
ground, nothing is so good as the Dutch hoe, which , 
skims off the weeds without much soil to them, and 
leaves them loosely on the surface without being half- 
buried or trodden. A draw hoe will never kill weeds 
half as readily or as effectually as a Dutch hoe. But 
where the ground is very strong, or the weeds have 
acquired considerable power, (a circumstance which 
never ought to exist,) the draw hoe will do the work 
with greater facility. 

A proper tool-shed, where each article used in the 
garden can have a distinct place, and be put away clean 
and neat, is one of the greatest conveniences in a garden, 
and can be used also for storing onions in, and carrots, 
and even potatoes if there be room. One corner of it 
can be devoted to a barrow, and another to a small 
ladder. In the summer, this shed yAW be a fit place for 
drying and cleaning seeds, while it will afford space for 
drying a few herbs during autumn. Refuse wood, pre- 
paring for household use, may further be brought by 



THE ACCIDE^'TS OF CriTIVATIOX. 



43 



parcels into this shed, and stowed there to acquire addi- 
tional dryness. In these and various other ways, a small 
shed may have its space so husbanded as to become the 
means of supplying many a comfort^ and relieving the 
house of many a burden or nuisance. 

2. — Diseases of Plants. 

The great cause of disease in plants is bad cultivation ; 
and its remedy, of course, an improved system of treat- 
ment. A plant that is gi^owing in a soil imperfectly 
drained, or which has not room properly to develop 
itself, or nutriment sufficient to keep it vigorous, is sure 
to be unhealthy ; and a sickly or weak state is always 
next door to disease. An unhealthy plant may, indeed, 
become diseased at any moment ; for disease is but a 
development or localisation of general unhealthiness. 

Still, disease will occasionally manifest itself under the 
most careful and judicious culture : and the more artifi- 
cially a plant is treated, the more will it be liable to the 
attacks of disease. A condition the nearest that is 
possible to nature is the soundest and healthiest both in 
plants and animals ; and every depai'ture from that state 
is more or less fraught with danger. 

Barrenness, if it may be called a disease, has already 
had its cure pointed out. Canker in trees, especially 
fruit-trees, will sometimes happen without any apparent 
cause. The best remedy will be carefully to cut out the 
dead or affected parts, and administer a thin plaster, 
composed of clay, cow-dung, and soot. This will gene- 
rally heal the wound, and cause new bark to grow gradu- 
ally over it. ^louldiness or gangrene in stems and leaves 
is apt to affect plants growing in pots that have insuffi- 
cient air or too much moisture, particularly if they be 
at all succulent or tender. It should be guarded against 
as much as possible, by due ventilation and dryness ; 
but, when it appears, the parts affected should be at 
once removed with a knife, or, if the gangrene has not 
proceeded far into the stems, perhaps the use of a little 
quick-lime will suspend its progress, and at length restore 
the part to soundness. 



44 



SCIENCE OF GARDENING. 



Water stagnant in soils, from accidental causes, may 
put plants into such a bad condition, that they will lose 
nearly all their root-fibres, and have nothing left but the 
mere trunks of the roots. When the occasion of the 
evil is not discovered till it has reached to this serious 
extent, and the jilants are too valuable or too great 
favourites to be thrown away, they might probably be 
restored by taking them out of the earth, washing their 
roots quite clean, paring away all their diseased or de- 
caying parts, and planting or potting them afresh imder 
more congenial ausj)ices. With subsec[uent attention, 
they may thus be made to surmount the disease. 

In stiff clayey soils, cherry-trees will sometimes take 
to exuding a great deal of gum from their stems, and 
shortly afterwards exhibit all the symptoms of decay. 
There appears no remedy for this but planting them in 
much lighter and better d]^ained ground. The attack 
seems produced by a kind of repletion, or extravagant 
luxuriance. 

A singular blight has recently affected peas in much 
the same manner as the potatoes, but chiefly in the pods. 
It is as unaccountable as the potato disease, but occui's 
almost wholly in the later crops, which, it may be ob- 
served, are seldom free from some kind of disease, and 
are never veiy wholesome. They are most commonly 
attacked with mildew, which renders them an uncertain 
and unproductive crop. 

Many other kinds of diseases are incident to plants ; 
but some of their reputed affections are the work of 
insects, rather than organic disease. They who are 
careful to cultivate them well have little to apprehend 
in the way of ordinary natural visitations. 

3. — Injurious Insects and Animals. 
What has been just remarked about disease arising 
out of imperfect culture may be extended in great ^sxt 
to the attacks of insects, by which some gardens are so 
much devastated. It is a curious fact that many smaller 
insects do not commence their ravages on healthy plants, 
but seize upon them the moment they become diseased. 
Indeed, the appearance of the disease and the insects are 



THE ACCIDENTS OF CULTIVATIOJT. 



45 



sometimes so nearly coincident, that it is almost dijG&cult 
to decide which comes first. One thing is certain, how- 
ever, and pregnant with instruction, which is, that healthy- 
plants that are altogether in good condition, and are well 
cared for, do not attract insects, any more than disease, 
nearly so much as those which are feeble and badly tended. 

Neglected and slovenly gardens likewise, as it is well 
known, afford a convenient harbourage for many kinds of 
insects and vermin. Rubbish lying about in little heaps, 
decaying vegetable matter, little gatherings of divers 
loose substances in the corners and about the bottoms of 
palings or hedges, accumulations of weeds, and any 
species of untidiness, all give a resting, and lurking, and 
breeding-place for slugs, snails, numerous insects, mice, 
&c., which speedily overrun a garden, and destroy the 
greater part of its produce. Cleanliness and order are, 
therefore, the best preventives of insect gatherings. 

Still, the greatest precaution and care are not always 
effectual in excluding such depredators ; and they will 
therefore, have to be dealt with as enemies, and de- 
stroyed as soon as they appear. It is of the greatest con- 
sequence that they be taken in time, and that a garden 
should be strictly "preserved," in the sense of excluding 
almost every kind of animal life, rather than of cherishing 
it. Most insects and vermin multiply with such amazing 
rapidity, that, if they be not early checked, their ravages 
will be indefinitely prolonged, and well nigh infinitely 
extended. 

The various species of aphis, or plant-fly, which appear 
on so many plants, and suck out their best juices, must 
be got rid of by dashing w^ater upon them from a syringe 
or engine, or by fumigating them with tobacco beneath a 
close calico covering, or by washing the parts with 
tobacco-water. They would soon devour all the leaves 
of such things as currant trees, and render them very 
nearly useless. Water is the greatest enemy to the re 
spider, which attacks fruit trees on walls, but which may 
be driven away by vigorous syringing, when timely com- 
menced. Wire-worms, grubs, &c., that live in the ground 
and caterpillars, that feed on the leaves of plants, are 
chiefly to be extirpated by hand-picking ; though the 



46 



SCIENCE OP GARDENING. 



eggs of the latter may often be found glued to the 
branches of fruit-trees, and should be diligently looked 
after. Soot and lime in the soil will be a good safe- 
guard against many insects that exist in the ground, as 
they will, if freely applied over the surface, with slugs 
and snails. These last may also be trapped by laying 
about any fresh leaves in the garden, and examining them 
every night and morning. Worms that burrow on lawns 
or paths, disfiguring and making them dirty, may be 
destroyed by the use of lime-water, poured through the 
rose of a watering-pot. 

Ducks will sometimes do a good deal of good, if allowed 
the run of a garden, by picking up slugs and snails. 
Birds likewise devour a great number of insects; but 
sparrows, chaflB.nches, and tomtits do little but mischief. 
Fowls are exceedingly injurious in a garden, and should 
never be admitted ; while cats ought to be kept out as 
much as possible. Mice are pretty easily trapped ; but 
rats, when once they get possession of a place, can only 
be taken by poison, very artfully and carefully laid for 
them, after they have been frequently enticed by the 
food in which it is at length administered. Rabbits, 
which increase prodigiously, and are highly destructive, 
can either be kept out with a close fence, or snared by 
setting wire gins in their runs, or taken in the holes by 
ferrets, or shot. They will require, when they have once 
obtained a lodgment in a place, to have the most constant 
war waged against them. 

As with most other things, the remedy for these ills 
will generally be found easier than the cure. Taking a 
female wasp in spring, just before she has brought forth 
her teeming brood of young ones, will prevent the inroads 
of hundreds of wasps subsequently. Destroying a nest of 
young rabbits, which is easy, will be as good as catching 
an equal number of old ones, which is extremely difficult. 
Searching out for the eggs deposited by different insects, 
and crushing them, will keep away myriads of these 
annoying pests. And a complete visitation of rats may 
be warded off by daubing with gas tar the holes through 
which the first pioneer of the troop enters, and otherwise 
rendering his quart ei^s displeasing and intolerable. 



ON REARING KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 



47 



a THE ART AND PRACTICE OF GARDEMNG. 



Gardening, as an art, ought to be practised so as to 
accord with the principles of science, in supplying plants 
with proper food, and affording them due exposure to 
light and air, and sufficient shelter from cold and other 
external injuries. 

In carrying into effect any of the principles of science, 
some consideration is necessary, with regard to the 
peculiar structure and habits of the different plants, 
before submitting them to any particular kind of treat- 
ment; and as the deepest acquaintance with science 
would fail in this particular, it is obvious that science 
alone can never teach an individual what particular 
management is necessary for certain crops ; therefore, to 
convey a more correct and accurate notion of this im- 
portant part of the subject, the succeeding pages will 
be devoted to practical directions for cultivating and 
managing the various kinds of culinary vegetables, fruits, 
and flowers. 

I.— ON REARmG KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 

As the food of plants can be reduced to a few simple 
principles • in the same way the food of man, so far as it 
is derived from the produce of the garden, is composed 
chiefly of the various combinations of carbon, and the 
three gases, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen ; in the forms 
chiefly of starch, gluten, sugar, and fibre. 

The most nutritive of these is starch, or rather the 
basis of starch, discovered by M. Biot, and termed 
Dextrine; and the least nutritive is fibre. A good pro- 
portion of that, however, which is less nutritive is useful ; 
for food is far from being most wholesome when too 
refined, otherwise an exclusive diet of dextrine, or of 
essence of beef, would be the best ; but experience proves 
the contrary. 

As we proceed, we shall mention the proportions of 
starch, sugar, and fibre, in the common garden vegetables 
used for food, so that some estimate may be formed of 



4S PRACTICE OF GAEDEmfG. 

their n.itririve q lahtie? very briefly, or whoUj 

prs? over, such a- ere r. _ : :eble to rear in a small 
garden of from one-sixhn to one-fourth, or half an acre in 
extent. 

It may' ^ ] / ?rran:e kitchen vegetables 

into four f _ . . to the r articular parts of 

each which are eatcu bv man. as rocts, stems,, leaveS; and 
seeds. 

I, —ROOTS. 

The roots chiehv cultivated m gardens are. potatoes, 
carrcits. r arsneps, beet. Jerusalem artichokes, turnips, and 
ra:li-hes. 

Waxy Potatoes contain but little itutriment : when 
mealy, one thcusanl parts ccntain tvro hundred rarts of 
starch, used her the hnest newer bw French biscuit bakers 
aud s cld as arrovr-roco ;:y the dru^zists.) forty parts of 
gluten, twenty-oarts C'f sui'ar. and the rest water and 
fibre. Even f :r cattle theu are ncu very nutritive in a 
raw state, because the en^-eltpe aiuund the small parti- 
cles of their dfxtriue. repuires t: ^ 'vac^-: ':v heat to 
make it available, T^tV-ciIt^ m tu^:::^m:us. 
and contain at: v iur, 

*'Pct'"t:cs m'"ru t: norses." savs Olr. 3Ienteath. "as 
well as tC' all -thcr annuals, c-ught to be previously either 
boiled or steamed : rcr hcnses. c^n eating raw y^jtatoes. are 
liable to be seized w::;i colic, which generally proves 
fatal,'' An acre ;i a w^tm^ ^^ill supply about double the 
quantity of an aim if 'vh-:,;v 

The best soil for ^■ccaice- i ^ : ndy loam ; for on 
stiff, heavy, clayrv. m- wct la_,. u_ ' fi not thrive well. 
' ' 1 ul tue best mauure is stame or ccw dung, 
-.1 ; ^cu Well retted : and. on heavy or wct land, 
cia^ami-, u:aringly.' cr a aauvi lus liming. In peat soils 
euthiut mjim_. they are ircaueutlv holhcwdiearted. and 
this sccu cb seal is by no means so gc-od a.s a l iamy one. 
From the last week in April, to the middle of May. is the 
time for planting for the general crop, but if a piece of 
ground is planted about the latter end of March, a very 
good crop may be obtained, without being so liable to 



ox REART>'G KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 



49 



injuries from frost, Trhich is almost UDavoidable in those 
which are planted still earlier. 

Since the occurrence of the potato disease, it has been 
found best to use chiefly such sorts as ripen early^ and 
to plant them towards the middle or in the first week of 
March where the ground is of a wet nature. Manure 
of all kinds has been thought to develop the disease, 
unless very sparingly applied, and land that is the 
lightest or most sandy appears to produce the soundest 
crops. Guano, applied in showery weather, just as the 
shoots are breaking through the ground, has proved a 
good manure, if not too copiously administered. When 
early planting causes the shoots to appear above ground 
before the spring frosts have ceased, they should be 
freely earthed up as soon as their growth is observed, as 
this will often be the means of saving them. 

The sorts of potatoes are numerous, and many of them 
peculiar to certain districts, as the minions in Ireland, 
and champions around London. The kidneys, or long 
white, and the Scotch red or purple, are excellent for nev7 
ground. Most counties have, however, a number of sorts 
peculiar to themselves : and these are generally preferable 
to such as are obtained from other parts. The best can 
be easily known by inquiry of any good gardener or 
farmer ; and earliness of ripening will certainly now be 
a recommendation. 

As a distinct stem will be formed from every eye 
or bud, and as planting a potato uncut would therefore 
produce more stems crowded together than could find 
room to grow, as well as very much weaken the new 
tubers, by depriving them of the nourishment they ought 
to receive, and exposing a greater surface of leaves to 
the action of the atmosphere, which would necessarily 
induce an increased evaporation ; it seems preferable, 
two or three days before planting, to cut the sets, so as 
to leave not more than two or three eyes to each, with a 
rAece of the potato thick enough to nourish the stem till 
it arrives above the surface of the ground. 

When uncut potatoes are used, as some prefer, all the 
eyes but two or three ought to be scooped out, and they 
must be planted at greater distances, to give room for the 

F 



50 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



plants to get light and air, otherwise they may as well be 
planted under trees or hedges. The eyes or buds nearest 
the root-fibre sprout a week or more later than those 
farthest from it, on the same principle that the top shoots 
of a tree come first into leaf ; and, therefore, in planting 
uncut sets, the produce will be unequal in size, and ripen 
at different times, if the greater part of the eyes are not 
extracted. In planting cut sets, the two sorts of eyes 
should be planted in separate rows, as is always done in 
Lancashire. Potatoes for planting are found to answer 
best when procured from a different soil, as they seem to 
like a change of food ; though this is most probably 
owing to the new soil in which they are placed being well 
furnished with those elements which they had so largely 
withdrawn from their former situation ; for it is now well 
known that few plants, and especially potatoes, will attain 
to any perfection, or produce good crops, if planted in the 
same soil for two or three successive years. 

Drills are preferable to the Irish lazy beds, or to 
dibbling. The drills ought to be two, or even three feet 
apart, the manure spread at the bottom, the cut sets dropt 
over, or as some prefer, under the manure at from eight 
inches to a foot distant, the uncut sets at two feet distant, 
and the whole covered with three or four inches' depth of 
earth. An application of a mixture of bone-dust and lime 
will also be highly beneficial, and should be scattered spa- 
ringly along the drills, before covering the plants with soil. 

Around London, it is the most usual practice to dibble 
potatoes with a large two-handled dibber, having an iron 
guard to prevent it from going too deep ; but this is done 
chiefly for the sake of saving time, and is by no means so 
good a practice as that of ridging the ground intended 
for potatoes in the autumn, or early in the winter, and 
allowing it to remain in this state through the winter, till 
the time arrives for planting out, when the potatoes or 
sets may be dropt into the valleys between the ridges, the 
manure placed over them, and part of the earth from the 
ridges hoed in upon them, leaving the remainder till they 
have started growing and require earthing up. This 
practice is productive of great advantage, particularly in 
wet adhesive soils ; as, by being exposed to the action of 



ON REARING KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 



51 



tlie weather during the winter, the soil will become 
pulverised, and much better adapted for growing potatoes. 
With early planting, dibbling is also found to cause the 
v/ater to lodge around and rot the sets in the holes thus 
formed, unless the soil be particularly dry. 

When the plants are two or three inches above ground, 
the space between the roots ought to be well dug to loosen 
the soil, and encourage the spreading of the roots. When 
half a foot high, the earth should be hoed up to the stem, 
so as to cover the potatoes at the surface from the light, 
which turns them green and acrid, and to permit the 
air to penetrate to the farthest spread roots. Another 
hoeing will be afterwards wanted to keep the stems from 
falling down. 

In light soil, when potatoes have been dibbled in, edge 
hoeing and flat hoeing without much earthing up answers 
best. Care must be taken not to choke the plants by 
drawing the earth too close ; and all weeds, which rob 
the crop of food, and shade it from light, must be 
grubbed up. 

All the blossom ought to be picked off by hand, for 
both the blossom, and the berry that follows it, exhaust, 
as it appears, the pulp prepared by the leaves, which 
may thus be directed to increase the produce of the roots. 

The withering of the plant shows the proper time for 
digging up the crop. If any are dug up before this, they 
ought not to be exposed to the sun, which will deprive 
them of oxygen, render them acrid, and injure their 
flavour. The haum or straws should be rotted for 
manure. 

Early potatoes, that is, those which come into use 
before the end of June, or the beginning of July, are an 
unprofitable luxury, containing very little starch and some 
sugar, but scarcely any nourishment. One method of 
inducing them to come early, is to save only half-ripe sets 
for planting, keeping them in dry sand, or chaff, during 
the winter, and taking care not to break the shoots when 
they are planted. If spread out on a loft or floor, with 
an inch or two of sand or chaff over them, and plenty of 
air admitted when it does not freeze, the shoots will grow 
thicker, and even come into leaf before planting out in 



52 



PR.VCTICE OF GARDE XIXG. 



March, or early in April ; afc the time of planting, the 
ground should be left rough and cloddy to protect the 
crop from cold winds. In case of a frosty night occurring 
afterwards, the hoar frost must be carefully thawed off 
by watering the plants over the tops from the rose of a 
watering-pot, before (not after) sun-rise. 

The curl, a disease that puckers the leaves, is often 
injurious to potatoes, but no remedy is known. It is said 
to be caused by a grub in the root ; and, in this case, the 
application of a small quantity of lime at the time of 
l^lanting, will certainly assist in preventing it, besides 
which it will have a tendency to preserve the sets from 
rotting. That more extensive and more mysterious 
visitation which has lately been experienced has hitherto 
yielded to none of the appliances of art. But as it seldom 
shows itself much before August or September, it is most 
important to get the tubers well formed, and at least 
partially matured before that time. Fresh land, that is 
of a light nature, and thoroughly well drained, and not 
shaded by trees, or much manured, is undoubtedly the 
safest. Some prefer pulling up the stems directly the 
disease begins to show itself ; but this does not appear of 
much value. 

Potatoes should always be planted in moderately dry 
weather, if possible ; as, when the season at which they 
are planted happens to be wet, they almost invariably 
rot, and this is one great cause of failure. 

Sets cut with a single eye, mature their crop a fortnight 
sooner than those cut with two or more eyes, though the 
latter is by far the safest practice, as the eyes sometimes 
prove abortive, and where there is more than one they 
are not so liable to rot. It is better to cut the set? a 
few days previous to planting, as the wounds will then 
become healed before they are brought in contact with 
the damp soil, and this also will tend to prevent them 
from rotting ; a circumstance so lamentably destructive 
of potato crops. After being taken from the ground, 
potatoes should be spread out in a dry shed for a few 
weeks, in order to get properly dried ; and be frequently 
turned over, to pick out the diseased tubers ; care being 
taken to prevent them from drying too much or shrivellmg. 



ON REARING KITCHEN VEGETABLES, 



53 



They keep better when moderately dry, and relieved of 
their diseased neighbours. The best place for storing 
them in is a diy shed or loft, that is not at all warm, and 
where they can be laid in dry sand, and covered with 
straw, to keep out frost. Putting them in pits, in the 
open gi'ound, is at best but a necessary evil. 

%— Carrots. 

The Carrot is a common wild plant, with a small woody 
root, improved by cultivation to a large-sized fleshy root, 
containing in 140 parts, 95 parts of sugar, three parts of 
starch, and the rest water and fibre. It is, therefore, 
nourishing, wholesome, and profitable. 

It grows naturally in a dry, gravelly, or sandy soil, but 
requh'es in the garden a deep rich sandy loam, well dug, 
but not fresh manured, which latter causes the roots 
to fork, unless the manure be buiied more than half a 
foot. The time for sowing is from the end of February 
for the early crop, till the first week in April (not later) 
for the full crop. 

For the early crop, the early horn sort is preferable, 
but is small and not so profitable as the orange or the 
Altringham : for the full crop, the red or long orange 
is best. 

As the hairs on the seed cause it to mat together, rub 
it well with an equal quantity of dry sand and ashes, and 
on a calm day sow thinly broadcast, or rather strew it in 
drills an inch or less deep, and a foot or more apart, the 
gi'ound being first rolled, or trodden firm and even; cover 
lightly, and pat it over with the back of the spade. If it 
is sown broadcast, the ground should neither be trodden 
nor rolled preTious to sowing, but the seed should be 
scattered over it immediately after digging, and it may 
then be well ti'odden, and the seed carefully raked in. 

The seed ought not to be more than one yeai' old, and 
is often bad. For forty feet of drill, a C[uarter of an 
ounce is enough, and the same for a bed three feet wide 
and eleven feet long. 

Weeding is of the utmost importance, to give the 
plants all possible light and air ; and for the same reason, 
the plants themselves ought to be thinned out when in 

F 2 



54 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



tTieir thii^d leaf, to four, and afcerwards to six, eight, or 
ten, inches apart. 

.When weeds are left to grow, or the thinnings are not 
attended to, the carrots will be small and spindly. In 
drilled crops, the ground must not be dug between, or it 
will cause forking. In the month of October the whole 
of the crop should be taken from the ground, deprived of 
their tops, though not too closely, and placed in a jjit for 
the winter, covering them first with straw, and afierwards 
with two or three inches of soil; the straw is intended 
to keep them from being injured by excessive moisture, 
and the soil to preserve them from the attacks of frost. 
Where, however, a place in the cellar can be devoted to 
this purpose, they should be piled in heaps, with a small 
quantity of river or drift sand placed between each 
layer, and in this manner they may be preserved soimd 
and healthy, without losing any of their flavour, or drying 
up any of the nutritive juices they contain. If allowed to 
become too moist and warm, they begin to grow freely, 
and at once consume the greater part of their sugar ; 
thus rendering them flavourless. When permitted to 
get dry and flabby before being housed, they never recover 
their plumpness, and have a stale, disagreeable taste after 
boiling. One plant of each sort in the bed may be left 
to go to seed, or may be planted out for this purpose in 
the following spring. 

Very large carrots may be grown by making deep and 
large dibble holes, hard rammed at the sides, filling them 
loosely with rich earth, sowing a few seeds of the long 
sorts on the top, and when they come up, removing all 
but the plant nearest the centre. 

Carrots are generally grown to an immense size when 
planted in river or sea sand: therefore, it is important 
that the soil in which they are sown should be of a very 
light and sandy nature, and rendered fine by frequent 
digging. Indeed, this is the only point in the cultivation 
of carrots that demands particular attention, for if the 
soil is at all adhesive, or not well broken, the descent of 
the roots will be obstructed, and consequently they will 
become branched or forked, aud when this is the case, 
they are generally worthless. So that, the lighter the 



ox REARING KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 55 

soil in which carrots are grown, the finer will be the 
carrots produced. In wet soil they are apt to split and 
become cankery, or be eaten by insects. Eabbits are 
particularly destructive to carrots, and they cannot, there- 
fore, be safely grown where these animals abound, and 
there are no means of keeping them out of the garden. 

When more carrots are grown than are wanted for the 
kitchen, they are excellent food for pigs and cattle, and 
also for poLiltry, when rasped and mixed, or boiled and 
mashed, with bran or oats, — a thing worth, knowing, 
though little known. 

3. — Parsneps. 

One thousand parts of Parsneps contain ninety parts of 
sugar, nine parts of starch, and the rest water and fibre ; 
they are therefore nourishing and wholesome, though 
somewhat coarse and hard of digestion by weaker stomachs. 

Parsneps grow naturally in a chalky or marly soil, and 
thrive tolerably well in the garden on strong clay where 
neither carrots nor turnips attain to any perfection. A 
good rich loam, however, is far preferable to clay, which 
latter is totally unfit for most garden crops. They should 
not be sown (the seed not older than one year) later than 
March ; and, if in drills, from four to six inches farther 
apart than the carrot, as they require more room. 

For a bed four feet wide and twelve feet long, a quarter 
of an ounce of seed is sufficient. 

In all other respects they may be cultivated precisely in 
the same manner as carrots. In thinning, they should at 
first be left in pairs, and, when six inches high, the weakest 
of each pair must be taken up. The hollow-crowned and 
the Guernsey sorts are the best. Parsneps endure the 
hardest frosts, w^hich even improves them; therefore, 
they need not be taken up, except a few for use when the 
ground is frozen very hard. They are a very profitable 
crop, though not generally liked. 

L—Beet. 

The root of the Beet contains a considerably greater 
proportion of sugar than the parsnep, but is similar in 
the other constituents. 



56 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



The seed may be dibbled into holes an inch deep and a 
foot apart, placing three or four seeds in each hole, and 
removing all the plants but one after they have formed 
their third leaf. In other respects the cultivation is so 
similar to that of the parsnep, that it is needless to repeat 
it. It flourishes best in a rich loamy soil, and requires to 
be sown about a fortnight later than the parsnep. As soon 
as the roots of the red or purple beet are matured, they 
should be taken up very carefully, and stored in pits similar 
to those recommended for carrots. In taking them from 
the ground, and divesting them of their leaves, care must 
be taken not to V70und the root, vs^hich V70uld bleed most 
profusely, and be much injured by it. The root of the 
white beet is not used, but the leaves are boiled like 
spinage, though they are not quite so good. The curled 
white is the best, and looks very pretty in the cottage 
gardens in Switzerland, in which it is universally grown. 

5. — Jerusalem * ArticJioke. 

This is a sort of sun-flower, bearing on its roots a num- 
ber of long and roundish tubers, like small potatoes, which 
are pulpy and sweet, containing much sugar, and there- 
fore nourishing and wholesome. 

All that is necessary to ensure a good crop, is to plant 
pieces of the tubers, or whole tubers, at any time through 
the winter or spring in a well-manured soil, in drills, from 
east to west, three feet apart, and two feet between the 
sets, covering them with three inches depth of earth. 

In all other respects they may be treated like potatoes, 
except that they do not require so much hoeing ; and as 
they are not injured by a moderate degree of frost, they 
need not, at least in the south, be taken up on that account. 
In consequence of their growing from seven to ten feet 
high, they must not be planted where they will shade 
other crops from light and air: but for strawberries, they 
are recommended as a summer shade by some gardeners, 
though, perhaps, rather injudiciously. They sometimes 
become a troublesome weed, as difficult to get rid of as 

* The name is not from the City of Jerusalem^ but a corruption 
of the Italian Girasole, meaning "sun-flower." 



ON REAEING KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 



57 



liorse-radish or mint, and ought therefore to be kept at 
out-corners of the garden. In some places, no care will 
make them succeed, and they cannot be strongly recom- 
mended for cottage gardens, though they are extremely 
prolific, and generally produce great crops. 

Since the occurrence of the disease in potatoes, and 
their extreme scarcity and dearness in some seasons, the 
Jerusalem Artichoke has come more into use and favour. 
It forms a good summer screen or sort of hedge on the 
outsides of gardens, especially along the northern, north- 
eastern, and north-western boundaries, where it will do 
no harm by its shade. In cooking, it should be squeezed 
dry after boiling, like turnips. 

6. — Turnips, 

One thousand parts of Turnips contain seven parts of 
starch, thirty-four parts of sugar, one part of gluten, and 
the rest water, fibre, and nitrogen, on which their flavour 
chiefly depends ; they are, consequently, nourishing and 
wholesome, though far inferior to potatoes. 

They grow naturally as a weed in waste places and corn 
fields, but thrive best in the garden on light open soil, 
well manured some months before the sowing, and finely 
dug and raked. Ground that has been long cultivated 
and thickly cropped becomes unsuitable for turnips, being 
what gardeners term " cankery." They prefer an exposed, 
airy place, always thriving best in fields. Land that is at 
all sloping, especially towards the south, rarely suits 
them. The proper season for sowing is from the end of 
May till the middle of August successively ; sooner than 
this the produce is usually small ; though generally ex- 
ceedingly sweet and pleasant. 

For the first crops, the stone, Dutch, or any of the 
white varieties are best ; for a late or winter crop, the 
Aberdeen yellow, the Swedish, or any of the yellow sorts, 
are preferable, at least as far as regards their being more 
hardy, though the white stone turnip has a far more 
agreeable flavour. The Teltow or long French for stew- 
ing, is sown first in April, and again in August. 

Sow thickly broadcast, or rather in drills, a foot or a 
foot and a half apart, covering with two inches or so of 




58 



PRACTICE OF GARIIENING. 



earth, wliich. should be lightly beaten or trodden down, 
and afterwards well raked in the same direction as the 
drills, and not in a contrary direction, which would dis- 
turb the seed and cause it to come up irregularly. For 
a bed four feet broad and twelve feet long, about a 
quarter of an ounce of seed is enough. 

When the seed leaves get through the ground they are 
often devoured by a small jumping beetle, not much 
larger than a caraway seed, called the fly, flea, or black 
jack, though it is rather a shining bluish green than black, 
with two lighter streaks along the wing-cases ; but there 
are several species similar. According to M. Bouch^, the 
eggs are laid in July, and the dusky-brown grubs are 
hatched in the following May. They lie in the pupa 
state fifteen days, and the beetles appearing in July, die 
after they lay their eggs. Turnips, therefore, if M. Bouche 
is correct, when sown after the middle of August and out 
of their seed-leaf before May, are safe from this, though 
not from other species. At other times, radish seed, or, 
what is much cheaper, rape, may be sown between the 
turnip drills for the beetles to feed on, and save the 
turnips ; or the turnips may be sown thickly. If the seed- 
leaves of the crop are devoured, as is frequently the case, 
the seeds will not again vegetate, and the ground must 
then be very superficially dug over, and another sowing 
made. Tobacco-water and powdered quicklime may be 
sprinkled over the plants, but, it is believed, with doubtful 
success. The same may be said of the green or mealy fly, 
a sort of aphis, and several sorts of caterpillars, particu- 
larly a blackish one of a saw-fly, for which a flock of ducks 
turned into the crop to devour them is said to be effec- 
tual. The green-fly above mentioned may, however, be 
efiectually destroyed by sprinkling strong tobacco-water 
over the young plants. Steeping the seed in various ways 
must be idle, and may be injurious ; it can never do much 
good. Even were insect eggs laid on the seeds, which 
they certainly are not, no steep would kill them without 
killing the seed. 

When the plants escape their enemies, and are just be- 
ginning to form their third or rough leaf, they ought to be 
successively thinned out to nine inches between each, 



ON REARING KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 



59 



"which is no less important than careful weeding. As 
turnips often suffer much from drought, they should not 
be thinned too freely ; but having the several thinnings 
done in time is important, or they will grow weakly and 
never form good roots. 

When weeding with the hoe, no earth ought to be drawn 
up to the roots, as this is apt to produce bulgings or what 
are commonly termed fingers and toes, and the leaves will 
afford the roots sufficient shade to preserve them from 
becoming green and acrid. 

The winter sorts afford excellent greens early in spring, 
which are much used by all classes in London for the 
table ; and if they are suffered to remain in the ground 
till the spring, two or three successive crops of these 
greens will be produced. 

A few plants of the several sorts may be allowed to 
stand for seed, as distant as possible from each other, or 
from any flowering cabbage, to prevent cross-fertilisation 
by the bees or wind. 

When an early crop is wanted, seed may be sown (taking 
care afterwards to scare the sparrows) in open weather 
from January till April, but it is not to be depended on, 
and is not profitable. 

I 7. — Radishes. 

The Radish is composed of nearly the same consti- 
tuents as turnips, but being eaten raw, the chief nourish- 
ment it affords is its fibre and its nitrogen, on the last of 
which its flavour principally depends. 

It grows naturally in China, and sometimes here, as a 
weed, in similar situations to the wild turnip, but thrives 
best in the garden, on deep open loam, or a well-manured 
sandy soil. It differs materially from the turnip as to the 
seasons for sowing, which are successively from the be- 
ginning of January till May-day, not later, and from the 
end of August till the middle of October. Except in a 
cold wet summer, no good radishes can be grown in open 
beds, from the middle of May till September ; though 
where a border with a northern aspect is afforded, they 
may be grown to advantage through the whole of the 
summer, taking care to sow them thickly, or allow them 



_ OF GAEDE>^nvG. 



an abundance cf wa:ei\ In -iL " " nmmers, they are 
an exceedin^'.v refre^hin^ : : ; be made to form 

a parr of aim:-: e^rrv n:-;,b 

For the e:ifT ana a'a:uia.n crcvs. the short top, 
>ah a ; na hai^ cian:^:a:, are tiie best ; for the 

i _ _:a. a 1 - ahr winter crop, the red or 

eany wh::e inrnip-r : ::e a : a:af :f: "inrer. the black 
Spanish; but this, like ni:^: f a-^- i--^ very 

excellent. 

Having prepared a piece f ;: :he i f ^ aiacd size, 

by manuiing and digpng - a ^ - ^ :'a y : : a :a = : c n 

over, after n-hi:h it shoul a - : ': aiy 
and scatter the see a?, S j":vina ta ^h a;a;a:cej 

as itexpases the rlants to:' miteh ~: . :a_ht : 

and covering theni t:o ha" \ :^ t^ ftth "^'tr--, 

for radishes cann:t he st-a.. o. tar ra::.\:a ::tlit 

ground.^ ^ Xeveathc-'e.^s, a f-— arh.ls ;: efveen at'.vs :f 

soon as the see a is s ; ~a.. taeftf :a phat should be covered 
with^drv sta.fe htter. t : titr thihnness^of two or -three 

if they are not thus aae"fotfa ; it ^^ah also cause the 
seeds to germinate laanh i_i::e taiifily, and ensure a 
better crop. When the -tea f "legms to vegetate, the litter 
may he raor eh e at irely if the season is warm ; but in 
the spring it shi-ula ':nly fa taken off in the day time and 
replaced at ni^h". t ^ previa n'aav fi'om frost. 

For abed three f^et ar:; . ^-_;.n fret long, one ounce 
of seed ^vih ^ tii : a_h a r i^ aieties, and three 
quarters af an ina ia fir antnin_ ai.it winter varieties. 
T\'hen si vr- n : taiiaiy. they ar- apt to be woody or to 
run to see a Ent it is ain^av- -af r t sow mod ei-ately thick, 
in ordfi - f-,,. a^-; ;;ea re aati i>ds by birds. 

The 1 -a^ alrcaay ineatainaf, - said to prefer 

raai-ht- t a n nips, ant a-nina t i the tiin i -f sov;hng, the 
eary an :1 ie~^. ;iut n^^t the snniniir arin-, ire sue from 
this pest. Soiia: '^'a - a"^"ir n iiir an i; s may oe trans- 
planted for seeh. art tr a revent cross- 
ing. When ■'•ho f an- ^ lac ri. e, take up the plants 



ox REARING KITCHEX VEGETABLES. 



61 



aud hang them in a shed to dry. If radishes are sown 
broadcast over a piece of grouiid that has been planted 
with potatoes, the crop ^vill be fit for use by the time the 
potatoes are above the ground, and this is a very good 
and economical plan. 

II.— STEMS. 

The plants cultivated in the kitchen garden for their 
stems, are onions, shallots, garlic, leeks, chives, celery, 
rhubai'b, and asparagus. 

1. — Onions. 

The Onion is more used for its flavour and stimulus 
than for the nutriment it contains, consisting chiefly of 
fibre, with a little starch, which renders it pulpy when 
boiled, and not unwholesome, though it is not readily 
digested by weaker stomachs. 

The proper soil is a rich loam, well manured the pre- 
vious season, but no manure must be used unless it be 
thoroughly rotted : the decayed manure from the bottoms 
of old celery trenches is well adapted for this purpose. 
An open exposed situation is indispensable. The time 
for sowing is about the 20th of !March for a summer crop, 
and about the middle of August and the middle of Sep- 
tember, for a crop to stand through the winter, and to 
be drawn and used in a green and young state in the 
spring. 

For the summer crop, either red Strasburgh, or Dept- 
ford, or globe, or straw-coloured, or the white Spanish or 
James's are the best sorts ; and for pickling, the small 
silver-skinned may be sown. For the winter crop, or an 
early spring crop, the Welsh, is preferred. 

For a bed four feet broad, and twelve feet long, an 
ounce of seed will be enough, when the plants Eire to be 
drawn young ; when they are intended to mature them- 
selves, half an ounce is sufhcient. 

Sow thinly broadcast on a finely dug and raked bed, or 
in shallow drills, a foot apart, beating or treading the 
seed well down, and covering it with two inches' depth of 
.earth. It is much better to sow them in drills, as they 



62 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



may thus be more readily tliinned, and the weeds re- 
moved with greater facility. 

Weed carefully, and when the plants are three inches 
high, thin them first to three inches, and afterwards to 
four, six, or eight inches apart ; and where the seed has 
failed, or there are any defects in the crop, they may be 
filled up, by planting out some of the thinnings in damp 
weather. 

It is important in weeding onions with the carrot hoe^ 
not to stir the earth much, or raise it around the plants, 
which will prevent them from forming their bulbs pro- 
perly. When the leaves begin to lose colour, bend them 
down at the neck, which will hasten their withering. 
This is likewise important where any of the crop manifest 
a tendency to grow into leaves instead of bulbs, as by 
bending them in this manner, the unnecessary luxuriance 
in foliage will be checked, and the nutriment which is 
thus drawn from the bulb will be returned to it, which 
will, of course, render it larger and finer. 

Some sorts are much more liable to this defect than 
others, and it may be observed, that sorts which produce 
long bulbs are peculiarly so ; therefore, the round or flat 
kinds are preferable. 

Onions must be taken from the ground as soon as the 
leaves are sufiiciently withered, and, for this purpose, dry 
weather must be chosen. After leaving them on the 
ground for a few days to dry, they should be removed, 
and either placed on dry shelves, or tied up in bundles, 
and kept through the winter in a shed or outhouse, with 
due preservation from frost, though they are not very 
tender. 

When veiy large onions are wanted, sow very thickly 
in the end of May, or beginning of June, in good soil, or a 
month or two earlier, in very poor soil, as under a hedge 
or tree, some of the Spanish or Portuguese soi-t. These 
will nob be much larger than a bean in autumn, and are 
to be kept for plantiug till the next March or April, in 
rows or drills, a foot apart, and eight inches between the 
sets. They must only be pressed a little into the ground, 
and no earth brought up to cover the bulb. Keep the 
ground clear from weeds by hoeing it frecjuently between 



ON REARING KTTCHEX VEGETABLES. 



63 



the rows, and removing those by hand which come up 
between the plants, and if any of the onions appear hkely 
to run to seed, bend down their necks, as before directed, 
they will thus grow from four to six inches in diameter. 
Those obtained from autumnal sowing will also produce 
very large bulbs, if planted out in the spring in a similar 
manner. The tree-onion may be planted in the same 
way, but is not profitable. 

For seed, some of the larger ones may be planted out in 
rich soil, in spring, and the seed will be ripe in August, 
and must be well dried. It is important that every cot- 
tager should save a little onion seed, as it is frequently 
extremely dear ; and as three or four plants for seed 
would occupy little room in the garden, and requke very 
little attention, a great saving might generally be thus 
effected. The stems will require supporting with a stake 
as soon as they appear, but where the bulbs are planted 
in rows, two stakes at the end of each row will be abun- 
dantly sufficient, provided strings are fastened to each 
stake, and extend the whole length of the row on each 
side of the plants. If, after this, any of the stems should 
fall down, they may then be fastened to the strings, as, if 
they are allowed to lie on the ground, the seed will 
either vegetate or rot, both of which are to be avoided. 

2. — Shallots, Rocamhole, and Garlic. 
These are similar to onions in appearance, and may be 
cultivated in the same manner, except that as they do not 
produce seed freely, they are only multipUed by dividing 
the roots ; indeed, they produce new bulbs almost as 
abundantly as the potato, and therefore the seeds are not 
regarded. The separate parts of the root, called cloves, 
should be planted in April, either by dibbling them into 
shallow holes, or by merely pressing them slightly into 
the soil, and leaving them uncovered. They require no 
further attention, beyond keeping the ground clear from 
weeds, and when the leaves have attained their proper 
size, it is better to tie a quantity of them together in knots, 
which will facilitate their withering, and prevent the 
plants from running to seed. The leaves of shallots may 
be cut while green, as yoimg onions, and are of a very fine 



64 



PRACTICE OF GAEDENING. 



flavour, though both the bulbs and leaves are much 
stronger flavoured than onions. They may be taken up in 
the autumn, when the leaves are decayed, and preserved 
as onions. 

Potato onions are planted with the bulbs half covered, 
in December or January, in good rich soil, a foot apart 
every way, earthing up as they advance in growth. They 
are dug up in July ; are very productive ; and as good as 
the Spanish kind. 

3. — Leeks. 

Leeks are similar to onions in quality, but are preferred 
for broths and other soups, and are nutritive and whole- 
some. 

The soil requires to be rich, but not freshly manured,, 
and the situation exposed. The time for sowing is early 
in March, and again at the end of April ; the London tall, 
or the Musselburgh flag, being the best sorts. 

Sow thinly broadcast, or in shallow drills, eight inches 
apart, aftei^wards carefully weeding and thinning out the 
plants to three or four inches apart. 

For a bed four feet broad, and twelve feet long, an 
ounce of seed will be enough. 

About the middle of June, or early in July, in a fresh 
piece of ground, hoe drills fifteen inches apart, and from 
four to six inches deep, into which transplant the leeks, 
when the size of swan's quills, from the seed bed, with a 
dibble, six inches apart, leaving the drills open till the 
plants grow, and pushing only a little light earth into the 
holes in which they are planted ; when they commence 
growing, the drills are to be gradually filled, and the earth 
hoed up to the stems. If the weather be dry, give them 
an abnndance of water, which may frequently be repeated 
if required. Gardeners generally use a dibble rather 
larger than usual for planting leeks, and make the holes 
very firm on all sides, by pressing the dibble against them, 
or turning it frequently round. These holes beiug ulti- 
mately filled with fine soil, it is considered that the leeks 
will expand in them to nearly the full size of the holes. 

The practice of earthing up blanches the leeks, by keep- 
ing the light from the roots, and renders them milder. 
Planted in a level bed without hoeing, they are green, and 



ON REARING KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 



65 



of a mucli stronger and ranker flaTOur. Seed may be saved 
like that of onions, except that the plants intended for 
seed must remain in the ground all the winter, and in 
spring be removed to a warm border, where they will 
ripen their seeds better. 

Leeks are perfectly hardy, and, therefore, must not be 
* removed from the soil till tbey are wanted for use, as 
they are not capable of being dried like onions. 

4. — Chives or Syze. 

This plant has similar properties to the onion and leek, 
and is propagated by planting the small bulbs early in 
spring, in rows four inches apart, and two or three 
inches between the sets. Each bulb will produce a great 
number around it during the summer. 

Chives are little known in England, but are found in 
eveiy cottage garden in Scotland, usually grown in round 
patches, half a foot or more in diameter. The stems or 
leaves are cut when wanted for salads or soups, and are 
of a very mild and agreeable flavour. The roots are not 
eaten. The plant is useful for flavouring, and takes less 
room than onions ; the stems springing iip again after 
they are cut. 

5. — Celery. 

Celery, when blanched, contains both a little starch and 
sugar, but much more fibre, and is wholesome and excel- 
lent as a salad ; when not blanched, it contains little 
sugar, but is wholesome in soups. 

It grows naturally in a wet marshy soil, where it is 
extremely acrid and unwholesome ; but it thrives best in 
rich loam which contains a large portion of decayed 
vegetable matter or manure. It is an error to say that it 
requires a heavy or clayey soil, as is recommended by 
some, for the roots always thrive best in well-rotted 
manure, and a heavy wet soil about the stems would be 
highly injm-ious, both on account of its causing them to 
rot, and also because it cannot be placed sufficiently close 
to them without crushing them. Sandy soil is certainly 
objectionable, though not on account of its being too 
light; but because it is not sufficiently rich. The time 



66 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



for sowing is from the middle of February, on a hot- 
bed for an early crop, till the end of March or 20th of 
April, for a full crop. 

For a bed three feet broad, and six feet long, a quarter 
of an ounce of seed will be found sufficient. 

For the autumn crop the white is superior in flavour ; 
but the red is better calculated for standing through the 
winter ; the solid, or turnip-rooted, is not so sweet and 
agreeable as the others. 

The seed is best when new, but will keep tolerably 
well for ten years. It ought to be sown in some warm 
rich corner of the garden, (a border with a southern 
aspect is the best,) and should, by all means, be sheltered 
at night, which may be done by bending some branches 
of willow, or other pliable wood, over the bed, and coveriug 
them at night with garden mats, or pieces of old canvas 
or carpet. These remarks, however, apply to the crop 
sown in March ; as, for the April sowing, protection is 
not indispensable, though occasionally useful. The seed 
bed should be raked fine, and the seed covered very 
lightly ; it will not come up for several weeks. 

When the young plants have formed three or four 
leaves, prick them out four inches apart in a bed of rich 
soil, which must be first dug, raked, and rolled or beaten, 
with the spade. After being thus pricked out, the plants 
will require shading in the heat of the day, as not having 
many roots, they will be exceedingly liable to droop ; 
they may be shaded according to the directions before 
given for protecting them from cold. 

The early crops should be pricked out under a hand- 
glass. This pricking out is for the purpose of checking 
the growth of the plants, to prevent them from running to 
seed, and to increase the root-fibres, thus furnishing the 
plants with more ample means for obtaining food, and 
therefore ultimately tending to strengthen them. They 
ought to be well watered in dry weather. 

In July for the early, and in August for the late crop, 
trenches must be made, five feet apart, a foot broad, and 
a foot deep. In the bottom lay four inches of well-rotted 
dung, digging it in, or placing over it a covering of three 
inches of rich earth, raked even, in which the plants, now 



ox REARING KITCHEX VEGETABLES. 



67 



six inclies high, must be planted six inches apart, taking- 
care to remove all side shoots, if there be any, but none of 
the leaves, though it is better to deprive the leaves of their 
tops, as too great a surface of leaves would weaken and 
injure, perhaps destroy, the plants, by depriving them of 
too much moisture. A few laurel, or other evergreen 
branches, will be of great advantage to the plants, if 
placed over the trenches in the heat of the day, till they 
become established, as these will assist in keeping the soil 
moist, and also tend to prevent that excessive evaporation 
from the plants, so unavoidably attendant on the season at 
which they are planted. 

A large supply of water is indispensable at this period 
of their growth, and they should be liberally furnished 
WLth it every night. If slightly impregnated with manure, 
it will be beneficial. 

As blanching depends on excluduig the light, the earth 
must be laid up in dry weather to the stems of the plants, 
taking care not to choke the hearts ; a little may be added 
every week or ten days, as the crop advances, always 
leaving about six inches of the leaves above the surface of 
the soiL 

In earthing up celery, the soil used for this purpose 
should be broken very fine, and having been prepared 
with the spade, and placed along the edge of each row, 
the leaves of each plant should be collected together in 
one hand, while with the other the soil should be placed 
carefully about them. This process may appear trouble- 
some, but it is absolutely necessary to prevent the soil 
from falling into the hearts of the plants, which either rots 
them, or checks the growth of the heart, and renders it 
useless. 

Some gardeners use fine coal-ashes for blanching celery, 
and where these can be procured, they are certainly pre- 
ferable to soil, as they will not retain so much moisture, 
and the plants will be less liable to rot. 

The deep trenches formerly used, keep the roots too 
much from the air, and the late September plantings 
should be placed in very shallow trenches. There is a 
system of planting celery in beds of four or five feet in 
width, and placing the plants in cross rows, a foot apart; 



68 



PEACTICE or GABDENING. 



by this plan the beds are trenched out to the usual depth, 
and the plants are earthed up by placing the soil between 
two boards, one against each row, and when a suffi- 
cient quantity of soil is thus prepared between the 
boards, they are carefully removed, leaving the soil in a 
ridge between the rows, which is then placed about the 
plants with the hand. This practice cannot be recom- 
mended, as it renders the plants more liable to rot. 
Though this plant grows naturally in moist ground, wet is 
more injurious than frost to the blanched plants, which 
are tender and easily rotted. In very severe weather, a 
small quantity of dry litter should be shaken over the 
plants to preserve them from frost. It is not a very pro- 
fitable crop for a small garden, as it takes so much manure 
and room, but it is among the least unprofitable of mere 
garden luxuries, and may follow summer cabbages or kale, 
while the manure will prepare the ground well for any 
other spring crop the next season. One of the pricked- 
out (not the blanched) plants may be left to go to seed, 
which, when ripe, is to be hung up to dry. A small fly 
grub often deforms the leaves with white patches by 
mining into them. Celery should be principally eaten 
in the early part of the winter, before the severest frosts 
have occurred ; as it always becomes more or less rotten 
daring winter, and a large part of the crop is thus lost. 

6. — Rhubarb, 

The inside of the leaf-stalks of rhubarb, so much used 
in April and May for pies and tarts, contains some sugar, 
a good deal of pulpy fibre, and an agreeable and whole- 
some acid, consisting of the malic and oxalic acids. 

There are many sorts of rhubarb, but the Elford and 
Wilmot's early are the best, though a sort raised by Mr. 
Myatt, Deptford, and called the Victoria, is now culti- 
vated for the London markets, and produces immense 
stems. Rhubarb should be sown in the month of April, 
in a border with a northern aspect ; the seeds should be 
scattered thinly in drills of about two inches in depth and 
a foot apart, and slightly covered with soil. When the 
plants appear, they should be thinned out to about six 
nches from each other, and afterwards to a foot, and the 



Oy EEARTXG KITCHEX VEGETABLES. 



69 



thirmiiigs maybe planted in a similar situation, if reqnii'ed, 
though in this case they must be taken up with care, so as 
not to break the roots. It is a bad practice to prick the 
whole of the plants out, as some recommend, for the roots 
would thus be greatly injm-ed, and not the slightest 
advantage would be derived fi^om it. Xo attention is re- 
quired for the plants during the first year, except to keep 
down weeds. 

As soon as the leaves are decayed, the seedling plants 
should be taken up with care, and planted out in rows two 
feet apart, and the same distance between the plants. 
When they are planted fai^ther apart than this, a great 
portion of ground will be wasted, as they are not injiu^ed 
by being shaded by each, other. Rhubarb should always 
be planted in a shaded or northern situation, if the garden 
Contains such a one, as their stems will be finer and better 
when not too much exposed to the sun ; besides which, as 
most other plants rec[uire more light, these will thus 
occupy a situation which could not be made available for 
many others. Any rich soil will gi'ow good rhubarb, which 
will require an annual top dressing of well-rotted manure ; 
this should be apjjlied in the autumn, and, during the win- 
ter, the nutriment it contains will be conveyed down to 
the roots by the rain, and it will also cause the leaves to 
commence growing much earlier in the spring. 

As seedling plants of rhubarb do not produce stems fit 
for use till two years after the time of sowing, if plants 
are desired to be obtained sooner than they can thus be 
brought into use, the old roots may betaken up and sepa- 
rated into as many parts as there are crowns or eyes, 
leaving a portion of the root to each : these may be planted 
out where desired, and they will soon produce stems suffi- 
ciently strong for any required purpose. If the roots of a 
few plants are taken up in Xovember, and planted in pots 
in a rich soil ; by placing them in a warm and dark place, 
the stems will be grown sufficiently by Christmas for 
affording a supply during the whole of this festive season. 
Or, if they are planted at the same time in rotten dung, 
w"hich has been previously placed in a dark cupboard or 
ehed, they will soon commence growing without the ap- 
plication of heat, provided they are kept sufficiently damp. 



70 



PRACTICE OF GARDEiiUiG. 



ThiOTigli most rhubarb plants "will prodnoe seed, they 
stoiild not be allowed to do so, and only a few flower 
stems should ce -ff- ^^'iitH seed is requii'ed, as they will 
exhaust the rc :: .- : - ic: j v.i pose. 

This is an invaluable plani for small gardens, producing 
the means of making puddings and tarts from the spring 
till the end of autumn. If well manured, and grown in 
a shady place, it continues good all the summer; a cir- 
cumstance that requires to be better known. 

7. — Asparagus, 

This 1= : veiy delicate vegetable, generally reputed to 
be an exp ensive one, but not wholly unprofitable, and 
producing a very elegant dish, besides being readily dis- 
posed of in any market. It is regarded more as a luxury, 
because generally eaten only when its stems have just 
pushed through the surface of the ground, at whidi time 
their points alone vrill ce a: a"l eatable. But if they are 
allowed to grow five ;i six in : _es above ground, a double 
or treble portion of edible matter will be produced, and 
the plant will consequently become to the same extent 
more profitable. 

The seeds may be sown broadcasi^ or in drills :ne foot 
apart, on Hght rich earth, in the month of cl . and 
slightly trodden in and covered. The youn^ : l? :i:s will 
simply require cleaning till the autumn, whri. tlrT can 
be covered with litter or light manur^ and :n 
then" permanent places in March foUowing. 

Asparagus should be grown in bed8,ab: ..: : : : ler* 
wide, with the rows nearh' a foot apar^ an:! : 
six inches from each other in the rows. I: :e:_;:res : 
light rich alluvial soil, which should be weli i r: irii ^lT i 
with rotten manui'e. Between each bed, the: r : l i r 
an alley left, two feet in width, into which aii :„e ^ er - 
are usually di^awn during summer, n :i ~eil ' _ ::i i : 
the early autumn. From these al:e7S. : : : :_ : n : ^ : 1, r:i = 
riched with rotten manure, shoul:! _ ^-f:^ -m :i_^ 

and laid on the beds to the depth ;: :_:£r : ::Le: I_:s 
will supply a light medium for the siems lo t: ? u.i:. 
and fui'nish fresh nutriment to the roots at tLe ?a:i:e ::i_e. 
Strong soils are bad for asparagus : and eve. Tti.::., else 



ON REARING KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 



71 



that would obstruct the growth of the stems should be 
carefully picked out. 

In about two or three years^ the beds will come into 
bearing, when they should only be cut over lightly. 
Afterwards, they may be cut more severely ; but a 
quantity of stems should always be left to grow up and 
seed, or the plants will soon become enfeebled. 

III.— LEAVES. 

The plants cultivated in the Kitchen Garden for their 
leaves are, Cabbages, Savoys, Kale, or German gi-eens 
Broccoli, Cauliflower, Spinach, Lettuce, Endive, Cresses 
Mustard, Parsley, and Herbs. 

1. — Cabbages, 

One thousand parts of Cabbages contain forty-one 
parts of starch, twenty-four parts of sugar, eight of 
gluten, and the rest water, fibre, and nitrogen, on which 
their flavour chiefly depends. 

They ai'e wholesome, and, though not quite so nutritive 
as is sometimes represented in books, are, with the 
exception of potatoes, the most profitable garden crop 
that can be grown. 

Cabbages will thrive well in any richly manured soil, 
provided it is not too dry, for they will not endure 
drought, as they have but few roots to enable them to 
provide against it, and by exposing a great extent of green 
leafy surface to the atmosphere, evaporate much, and 
consequently require a greater supply of moisture. A 
stifi" clayey soil is therefore more suitable for them than 
a sandy or gravelly one, though the autumn or winter 
crops may probably succeed better in a soil of the latter 
description, as these seasons of the year are generally 
wet ; in summer, also, the plants will arrive at maturity 
sooner in such soils, though they will be much smaller 
But neither of these extremes are suitable for cabbages, 
and a rich loamy (not clayey) soil is the best for them. 

The time for sowing is very important, and should be 
regulated according to the time the crop is wanted. 

For a late spring and early summer main crop, the 



72 



PRACTICE OF GARDEIaIIsG. 



sowing must not be made much sooner than the lOth of 
August, or they will be too forward, nor much later thaa 
the 25th of the same month, or they will not be forward 
enough. For young greens in summer, and full heads in 
autumn and winter, sow in a warm border in September, 
and at short successive intervals from February till the 
end of June. 

The sorts, like the sowing, will depend on the time the 
crop is wanted ; and hence it is im^Dortant to get genuine 
seed. The quickest growing are the early dwarf, whicli 
comes first, the early sea-green, and the early York, which 
are of course best for spring sowing, and also for the 
first August sowing. The sugar-loaf, Battersea, and 
Wellington, are larger, and come a week or two later to 
succeed the earlier. For young greens or collards, the 
imperial and London coUard are the best, or rather the 
Vanack, which, by successive sowings, is always in season, 
and excellent for greens, white hearts, and sprouts. The 
drum-heads, flat Dutch, and round Scotch, are large, 
coarse, and not so suitable for gardens as for field culture. 

The sugar-loaf is one of the mildest and best of 
cabbages, and grows into a compact close head without 
ever getting very hard. It has a sweetish agreeable 
flavour, and is entirely destitute of the rankness which 
often renders cabbages indigestible for weak stomachs. 

For a seed-bed four feet wide, and ten feet long, one 
ounce of early York cabbage seed will be enough. 

Sow thinly broadcast in a finely dug and raked bed, or 
rather in drills six or eight inches apart, which may be 
beaten after sowing with the spade, or trodden firmly 
down, covering the seed with about one inch depth of 
earth. 

The seed-leaves are apt to be devoured by the same 
small beetle which infests seedling turnips ; though this 
is only the case with such as are sown between May and 
August, as has before been observed with respect to 
turnips. Slugs are also very destructive, and a quantity 
of quicklime should be scattered over the ground early iu 
the morning. If this does not effectually destroy them, 
they must be picked off by the hand very early in the 
morning, and plunged into a garden-pot filled with quick- 



ox PvEARIXG KITCIIEX YEGETAELF.S. 



73 



iiine,whicli will speedily kill them. TIig green fly or aphis 
is also sometimes found on the y oimg plants, in which 
case they should be sprinkled with tobacco-water, though 
this remedy will certainly affect their flavour. In hot 
and dry weather, the seed-beds will require a good supply 
of water, though for summer sowings a cool and shaded 
situation should be chosen ; but with early and late 
sowings, a warm south harder is best. 

After the young plants have escaped all these enemies, 
they should be carefully weeded and thinned out to about 
one or two inches from each other ; for if this is not done, 
they ^vill grow long, weak, and slender, and will never 
afterwards become so large and fine as those that are 
treated in this manner. 

When they have acquired about six leaves, they should 
be pricked out into another bed or plot of ground, taking 
care not to break the root.?, and to have as much earth as 
possible attached to them. To eftect this, they should be 
well watered on the previous day, and should be taken up 
with a small three-pronged fork ; for if they are drawn 
without being thus loosened, the roots will be greatly 
injured, and no soil will adhere to them. xVlways cut off" 
the extremities or tails of the roots, that is, the long 
tapering root that descends from the centre of the stem 
perpendicularly into the soil ; as this operation will in- 
crease and facilitate the formation of fibrous roots. 

The nursery bed must be of good rich soil, well dug, 
and the plants dibbled into it in rows of half a foot apart, 
and four inches between the plants ; after planting they 
should be liberally watered, and also on future occasions 
when required. 

Of the few operations to which cabbage plants are sub- 
jected, that of pricking them out is the most important 
for producing large cabbages, as the plant is thus induced 
to form a greater abundance of root fibres, which after- 
wards provide it with a larger supply of food and nourish- 
ment. At the time of performing this operation, the 
plants should be sorted, so as to collect all those of the 
same size together ; otherwise, when after^\'ards planted 
out, the crop would come in irregularly, for the larger 
plants will always be ready for use before the smaller 

H 



74 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



ones ; although, in small families, this will sometimes be 
an advantage. 

When any little knobs or clubbings are seen bulging on 
the roots, they ought to be pared off with a sharp knife, as 
they often, not always, contain a burrowing grub, which 
checks the growth of the plant, and which also becomes a 
little sharp-beaked weevil that eats the young leaves like 
the turnip flea. 

When the plants, thus pricked out, have attained the 
height of five or six inches, and have acquired thick straight 
stems, and an abundance of root-fibres to support them 
and provide them with food, (which they never would have 
done if they had been suffered to remain all this time in 
the seed-bed,) they may be planted out where they are 
intended to stand, in a well-manured, fresh-dug plot, and 
in a situation where they will be freely exposed to light 
and air. The various sorts will require to be planted at 
different distances from each other, according to their size, 
also considering whether they are intended to be cut young, 
or in a state of maturity. The rows should be a foot apart 
for dwarf sorts ; a foot and a half for the York and sugar- 
loaf kinds ; and two feet for the larger sorts ; while half a 
foot will be sufficient for those which are required for 
young greens or collards in the spring. The distance 
which the plants should stand from each other in the rows, 
must be regulated according to the preceding directions, 
and should be about two-thirds of that which is left be- 
tween the rows ; for instance, where the rows are a foot 
and a half apart, the plants should be a foot from each 
other in the rows, and so forth. In the case of spring 
collards, every alternate plant may be pulled up for spring 
use, and the remainder, if left, will afford an excellent 
summer crop, though this may depend entirely on the 
option of the cottager, or person growing them. 

The plants intended for planting out, must be taken up 
carefully with a fork, as before directed for removing 
them from the seed-bed; the roots should also be pre- 
served entire, and have as much soil attached to them as 
possible. 

Both in pricking out, and in the final transplantation, if 
the ground is very dry after making the dibble holes, fill 



ON REARING KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 



75 



these with water, putting in the plants as deeply as the 
leaves will permit. When plants are required to be placed 
out in excessively dry weather, they will derive much 
benefit from being subjected to an operation termed by 
gardeners puddling ; when they may be immediately 
planted, and by being frequently watered afterwards, they 
may thus be planted with perfect safety in the driest 
weather. It is, in all such cases, of the utmost import- 
ance, after a plant is put in the hole, to press the earth 
very firmly to the root-fibres (not the upper part of the 
root) with the dibble, to force them as it were to feed in 
their new place. If a plant vdll come readily up when 
pulled by either of the leaves, it is badly planted, and will 
never thrive. It is also important to keep the ground 
clear of weeds, and to stir it several times with the hoe 
or spade, to give the root -fibres, now accustomed to their 
new place, freedom to spread ; and also to draw up the 
earth to the stems, to encourage fresh root-fibres to grow 
there, and preserve the roots moist. Mr. Lee, however, 
disapproves of earthing up in light gi'ound. Take off the 
large outer leaves, particularly when yellow, to give light 
and air. 

"When the cabbages have been cut, if the ground is not 
immediately wanted, the stumps, particularly of theVanack 
sort, may stand till a crop of sprouts is obtained. Or, 
where the ground is required for another crop, they may 
be taken up, with large balls of earth to the roots, and 
planted in a trench in any spare corner of the garden, at 
half a foot apart, always observing to deprive them of all 
their old leaves as soon as the head is cut off, whether 
they are transplanted or not, that the young sprouts may 
not be robbed of their nourishment. A plant or two in 
this trench may be allowed to remain for producing seed. 

In saving seed, the sorts can seldom be got genuine 
unless the plants be kept at considerable distances asunder; 
and even then bees and other insects will often occasion 
cross-breeding. The seeds taken from the top will pro- 
duce much earlier cabbages than those taken from the 
bottom or side branches. 

Red Cdbhage seed may be sown either in August, or the 
end of March. The plants require to be placed in an open 



7G 



PRACTICE OF GARDEITING. 



exposed situation, aud at a tolerable distance from each 
other ; they will be of little use to a cottager, but meet 
with a ready sale in the market. They should be cut just 
before or soon after the first autumn frosts, or a good deal 
of each plant will be wasted by becoming rotten. 

2. — Savoys. 

This is a curly or puckered sort of Cabbage, of similar 
qualities to the other sorts, and cultivated exactly in the 
same manner, but only for a winter crop, which is very 
profitable. 

The soil may be drier than for summer cabbages, though 
it should be rich and well manured. The time of sowing 
is from the end of March till the middle of April, or a 
month later for young greens, planting them out late in 
July till August. The dwarf green is the least, and the 
large yellow the most hardy sort. Both are said to derive 
much benefit from frost, which deprives them of that 
strong rank flavour which they possess when they are not 
subjected to it, and also renders them more tender. 

If, after the heads are cut in February or March, the 
stumps are placed in trenches, as directed for cabbages, 
they will produce good sprouts, which have been found to 
remain tender aud good even when shooting for blossom. 

3. — Kale, German Greens, or Borecole. 

This is a sort of cabbage that does not form a solid head, 
and is similar to the Savoy, but milder, hardier, and better 
calculated for standing the frost. It also produces more 
sprouts than cabbages or Savoys, and these are ready in 
spring, when there are no other greens to be procured. 

The best sort is the green-curled, the purple being infe- 
rior in tenderness. The same time for sowing, and the 
same mode of management, are required as for Savoys. 

A sort of perennial kale has been introduced at Woburn, 
which is very hardy, and does not require to be yearly 
raised from seed like the others, but increased from 
cuttings or slips. It is much coarser in quality than the 
preceding. 



ON REARING KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 



77 



4. — Brvjssels Sprouts, 

The vegetable called Brussels Sprouts is a vaiiety of the 
Savoy, producing some thirty or forty cabbages, less than 
an egg, around the same tall stem, in addition to the head, 
and of excellent quality. 

The cultivation is very similar to that of the Savoy, the 
sowing being in March or April, planting out in July into 
good rich soil ; but about Brussels they rear successional 
crops, that come in from the end of July to the end of 
May. 

What are usually termed Brussels Sprouts in England 
are seldom genuine, in consequence of the seed being 
crossed by other sorts ; and, some think, on account of 
its being saved both from the main stem and the side 
branches. The latter opinion appears very doubtful, till 
proved by experiment. These and curled kale are deci- 
dedly the best winter greens, and both will continue 
sprouting until the blooming season, the young shoots 
being, if gathered before they have grown too long, ex- 
ceedingly agreeable and tender. 

5. — Broccoli, 

Broccoli is a sort of cabbage, with similar properties to 
the other sorts, but the part used is diifferent, being the 
head formed by the flower-buds. 

The soil requires to be richer than for cabbages, and to 
be often moistened, if possible with liquid manure. The 
time of sowing is precisely that of the cabbage, and the 
after -management is the same, except that the plants will 
require rather more room, and more earthing up. 

The sorts are numerous, but the chief are the early 
purple and Knight's protecting, which ought to be sown in 
the second week of April, the third week of May, and the 
last week of August, for successions. The early white, the 
green Cape, and the cream-coloiu^ed, being less hardy, may 
be sown in a warm border in the end of February, the 
beginning of March, or not later than April. 

"When a quantity of broccoli comes in all at once, and is 
not wanted, a few of the leaves may be snapped, and turned 

H 2 



doNYii ovtT each liead, wi.i.li vriii keep it ^Ybitc. and tend 
to check its farther development. This plan Ydll al serve 
to protect it from the late spring frosts. 

It is veiy doubtful whether any sort of broccoh. except 
the early purple, be a prohtcVuie crop in small gardens, as 
the produce -^'ill rarely be in proportion to the ground 
occupied, not to speak of manure and trouble. Portugal 
kale, or couve tronchuda, lately introduced, is also impro- 
fitablCj except for marketing. Purple broccoli will continue 
forming numerous heads long after the first and principal 
one has been cut. 

Q.—C':<vJ.ii'jv:ir. 

The Cauliflower and broccoli ai^e only varieties of the 
same species : the head of the flower djuds in both being the 
part used. But as it is nearly impossible to rear early 
cauliflower without a hot-bed to sow the seed, or hand- 
glasses to shelter the plants in winter, which the produce 
will not profitably repay, it does not come properly vdthin 
the design of this work. In the summer of 1^33 we had a 
number of plants given us, that had been well nursed 
under glass the preceding season : btit thotigh these cost 
nothing, the gi'ound in which they were planted would 
have made a more profitable, though a less delicate, return 
of cabbages, except for marketing. 

For a late summer or early autumn crop, cauliflower 
may, however, be easily reared, by sovv-ing the seeds on a 
warm border in March, and planting them in rich ground 
as soon as they are ready. AnotLer sowing in April will 
bring the crop down to the occurrence of atitumn frosts. 
Coming in dinging the hot summer weather, and lasting till 
the first frosts are experienced, it is more necessary to 
break down the leaves of caidiflower, to cover the heart, 
than it is in the case of broccoli. 

7. — S2'jhiCf[;e, or Sjjinach. 

Spinach is composed of a very little sugar, a great deal 
of water and pulpy fibre, and is very wholesome, and not 
unprofitable as a crop. 

The soil requires to be rich to produce large fine leaves, 



O'S liLAlli:^G KITCHEN YLGETALLLS. 



though, spinach will grow even in the poorest soil, if well 
manured. The time of sowing for a winter crop, to come 
in from Xovember till May, is from the middle of August 
to the 8th of September ; .but if frost occurs soon after the 
latter sowing, it will seldom survive the v»'inter. For a 
summer crop, to come in after the winter crop has run to 
seed, the end of April is the proper time; though, if an 
August sowing have been neglected, seed may be sown in 
the end of February or even in January, ^^'hen sown in 
June and July, it will run rapidly to seed. But a succes- 
sion of small sowings from the beginning of April to the 
end of June (using the round-seeded sort) will keep up a 
constant supply. It makes a delicate and pleasant dish. 

The sorts are the prickly-seeded, or, what is better, the 
Flanders, for the August sowing, and the round-seeded for 
spring. 

For a bed five feet wide and twelve feet long, an ounce 
of seed will be enough ; or half an ounce for the same 
space drilled. 

Sow thinly broadcast in a finely dug bed, or rather in 
very shallow drills six or eight inches apart ; or, as some 
prefer, double that distance, with rows of radishes or 
lettuce between, treading it vrell before raking. The earth 
over the seed should not exceed the third of an inch, for 
if much thicker, the seed will be lost. 

Sparrows and other birds, if not prevented, will endea- 
vour to purloin the whole sowing, as has frequently oc- 
curred within our knowledge ; and when the young 
plants come up, pigeons, if they get at them, "^"ill devour 
the whole. Careful weeding, and hoemg up the earth, so 
as not to choke the hearts of the j)lants, are indispensable. 
Thinning also must be duly attended to, and the plants 
should be left three or four inches apart. If a few plants 
of the winter or spring crops are allowed to remain, they 
will produce an abundance of seed, which should be pro- 
tected from birds. For summer crops, it is a good plan 
to sow the seed in drills, between the rows of peas, as 
the latter will afford it shelter and shade, and assist much 
in preventing it from running to seed ; besides which the 
ground will thus be better and more perfectly occupied. 

White Beet of the curled sort, and several wild plants 



80 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



and weeds, such as Good King Henry, Goosefoot, or myles, 
yield leaves little inferior to spinach. The New Zealand 
Spinach, lately introduced, is very productive and good, 
and may be sown in May. Two or three plants, which 
spread each three or four feet around, will give a tolerable 
supply for Sunday dinners. - 

^.—Lettuce, 

Lettuce contains a little sugar, and a great deal of water 
and fibre ; besides a very bitter milky juice, in the stems, 
which, when dried for medicinal purposes, and taken in 
doses of three or four grains, produces sleep, and in an 
immoderate dose, would prove fatal like laudanum. This 
milky juice, however, does not seem to exist in any quan- 
tity in the parts of lettuce used, which are wholesome, 
good, and profitable. 

The soil for lettuce must be light and well maniired, and 
the situation very open, or the crop will not be fine. The 
time of sowing is from the last week in February, if the 
weather will permit, successively every fortnight, till the 
first of May, after which the plants will run to seed rather 
than form hearts. Another successive sowing maybe made 
from the beginning of August, every week, till the middle 
of September. 

The sorts for the spring sowings are the green, white, 
and Bath cos, the Marseilles, or Prussian endive-leaved, 
and the black-seeded gotte. If any artificial heat is at 
command, to forward the plants which are fit to prick out 
in March, it will be an advantage. For the first August 
sowing the same sorts will do ; but for the later sowings 
the Grand Admiral, the Hammersmith green cabbage, 
brown cos, and black-seeded gotte lettuce, are the hardiest 
for standing the winter, though, except the black-seeded 
gotte, and the brown cos, they are by no means so good as 
the others, which, without covering with fern-leaves, 
hoops, and mats, or with glass, will seldom outlive sharp 
frosts. Plants for standing through the winter should 
always be planted out from the seed-bed, as, if they do 
not receive this check, they will grow too large and tender 
before the frosty weather appears, and will almost inevit- 



ON llEAEING KITCHE:^ VEGETABLES. 



81 



ably perish. It is generally unsafe to attempt preserving 
any lettuce through the winter without protection. 

For a seed-bed three feet broad and seven feet long, 
one-eighth of an ounce of seed will be enough, and wdll 
produce about two hundred plants. 

Sow thinly broadcast on a finely-dug and raked bed, or 
in shallow drills fifteen inches apart, coveriug the seed 
very slightly with soil. Weed carefully, and when the 
plants are an inch or two high, thin them to four inches 
apart, and when five inches high, to ten or twelve inches 
apart, hoeing them up at the same time, and planting out 
those which are moved into a separate plot, taking care 
to water them then, and for some days afterwards. Being 
a very juicy plant, it requires to be grown rapidly, and 
any great check spoils it. Showery weather should there- 
fore always be chosen for transplanting it ; or, when this 
cannot be secured, the evening of the day is the best time. 

Earth-worms will be apt to draw into their holes the 
pricked-out plants ; and pigeons and other birds, as well as 
slugs, and night-feeding caterpillars, will devour the leaves, 
if care be not taken to prevent this. A few cabbage or 
larger lettuce leaves strewn about among the young plants, 
for a few days or a week after planting, will serve as a 
good decoy for snails and slugs. Lettuces are often sown 
Avith advantage amongst onions, and in alternate drills with 
spinach, radishes, or potatoes. One plant of a sort, per- 
mitted to stand, will produce abundance of seed, which 
must be gathered by hand as it ripens, or it will blow 
away. Lettuce may be blanched as directed for endive. 

9. — Endive, 

Endive has similar properties to lettuce, but is more 
bitter, and not so j^^^l^table, though the curled sort is 
prettier in appearance when blanched. The small Batavian 
is the best. 

For a seed-bed three feet broad and seven feet long, a 
quarter of an ounce of seed is enough. 

The seed should be sown precisely like that of lettuce, in 
rich soil, from the middle of June to the third wxek of 
July, or later. Weed the bed carefully as soon as the 



82 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



plants appear, and tliin them to two or three iuches apai't. 
As soon as the leaves of the plants are two or three inches 
long, prepare a piece of ground, in an open and warm, 
situation, for theii- reception, by digging in plenty of rotten 
manure, and make shallow drills with a di-aw-hoe, about 
an inch and a half deep and a foot apart ; into these drills 
plant the yoimg endive in cloudy weather, at a foot 
asunder, and water them well if the weather is at all dry, 
repeating this frequently afterwards. If the seed is sown 
in diills, the plants should be successively thinned, till 
they are a foot from each other, and the thinnings planted 
out in the manner above dh-ected, while those that are 
left will grow much larger and finer than if they had been 
planted out, as endive thrives better when not transplanted. 
The object intended to be accomplished by the drills, be- 
fore recommended for transplanting the young endive 
into, is to preserve the plants from drought, and retain 
the water about the roots that is applied artificially. 

To blanch endive, (and the same system will do for 
lettuces, if required, or cabbage.) on a dry day gather up 
all the leaves, and tie them up vrith a piece of string, if no 
bass is at hand, which latter is much the best material for 
this pui-pose. They ought to taper at the top like a sugar- 
loaf, so as to keep out rain. In a fortnight or more all 
the inner leaves will, for want of hght, become white. 

It is well known that all blanched plants soon rot, and 
therefore only a few should be blanched at a time. Endive 
is seldom used, except in salads dressed with oil and 
vinegar, which, though very common among the poorer 
classes on the Continent, are by no means so even among 
the middle classes in Britain. The wild endive, a native of 
Britain, is planted on the Continent for the roots, which 
are roasted and used as coffee. 

10. — Cresses. 

The garden Cress, of which the curled sort is the best, 
contains a good deal of nitrogen, on which the flavour 
chiefly depends, and the same may be said of American 
or Belleisle cress, water-cresses, and scurvy grass. 

For a bed three feet broad and five feet long, an ounce 
of seed will be enough. 



ON EEARIKG KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 



83 



The seed may be sown in shallow drills, a little succes- 
sively every week in spring, summer, and autumn, by 
those who like it cut in the seed-leaf; but one sowing will 
last many weeks if it is not cut till in the fourth or fifth 
leaf, as many prefer it. These remarks apply to the common 
garden cresses, but the curled cress will remain good for a 
great length of time, if the outside leaves only are picked 
off, as it will soon produce more, and in this respect is 
exactly like parsley. In ^dnter it may be sown in pots, 
kept in a window, or on what are termed pyramids, or even 
on moistened sponge or flannel. In sowing seed of the 
common garden cress, or of mustard, as it is not required 
to produce large or strong plants, air may be wholly dis- 
pensed with ; heat, darkness, and moisture alone being ne- 
cessary to induce it to germinate. It should always be 
sown on the surface of the soil, and never covered with it, 
for when it is covered with earth, it is much longer in vege- 
tating, and the more rapidly it is grown the more tender 
will be the crop, and also more agreeable in flavour. In 
order to render a covering of soil unnecessary, the sowings, 
whenever they are made, should be covered with a piece of 
garden mat, old carpet, flannel, or other similar material, 
and by keeping these constantly moist, and having a mo- 
derate degree of heat, the crop will be fit for use in five 
days or a week. Articles of this description, however, 
must be removed as soon as the seed begins to vegetate, 
and the produce of the sowiogs that are made out of doors, 
wiU always be better if a hand-glass is kept over them, 
though this is not essential. A warm southern situation 
is also preferable. But these remarks apply chiefly to the 
common cress; as the curled cress may be sown on any 
border, and covered about a quarter of an inch with soil. 

Scurvy grass, when seed can be procured, is treated 
similarly to cress, and has the look and flavour of water- 
cresses. American cress may be sown in April or May, 
and will stand the winter. Water-cresses have lately been 
cultivated to a great extent near London, and ought never 
to be neglected where water can be had to grow them. 
Seed from all these is easily saved, taking care to select 
fine plants for producing it, and water-cresses will grow 
readily from cuttings. 



84 PSAGTIGE OF - IZ: 

U.—JfuJifard. 



I: 'v:: „x:. ::^v liie garden cresi, is no: 
air.r i: L:... :-.-c':l tlie seed-leaf. 

To ^.'.ve iced, so vr in s^;r:L^-. ::: rows two feet apart, tLin 
the pi":.n:s lo six incites in-ni eo;Ii other, and vrhen ripe, 
cur, drv^ r.nd tnre^li it. A ro7.- :i.ree or four yards long 
wiii nvoduce r.n abundj.nce of seed for one vears suc- 



Ciiried Cd.ervil. LeiU'ds Le:r--. or C:rn Salad, Sorrel, 
and some other plan--, are s:n"ie:nne$ sj'vn a> small 
salads. Tire fjrnrer e^f tl^ese n: ep treated as directed 
for parsiev. vrliile Se^rrel. vrliieir 1.';:^ several years, may 
be multiplied bv divi'diu;: the ro:>t-. 



Parsiep := obirdv used t : n t: ir soups, and to garaisli 
disne=, It i wli dr ::ne vd en :iled. The seed may be 
s ; vn in sd di : di 1- ti^er : dirin an edgingalong the 
verre en :e rl :n e: rminie d. e-r a foot from the edging : or, 
it m n ee ^e n dr edea-t in a small bed or border. In 
either cane ti:e plant- should be thinned to about lunr 
or six inches fre^m each other, and kept clear from 
weeds, It is v,-orthy of remark, that parsley will grow 
well under the shade of trees, where few other vegetables 
would thrive. 

It will run tei se-d the see end year, and therefore some 
map be sewn in March, wi^ieh whl bn ht fer u=e in the 

13. — o(rn: Herbs, d'C. 

]\Iint. Thyme, Sage, Savory, Marjoram, Hyssop, Laven- 
der. Rjsomary, Balm;Tli.ie, Fennel, Chamomile. Southern- 



ON REAPING KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 



85 



wood, and the like, are all easily cultivated, either by seed, 
by cuttings, or by dividing the roots, and rnay be planted 
in the borders, or in the corners of the beds allotted to the 
larger crops. Hyssop, Lavender, Saee. and Rosemary 
mny be multi]_3lied by taking off slips of a moderate size 
in the autumn, as soon as the plants have ceased flowering, 
and planting them out where they are recjuired, with a 
dibble. If the slips are taken from the base of the plant, 
and have a few roots to them, they will be much more 
likely to succeed. Fennel produces an abundance of seeds, 
which vegetate most freely ; indeed, unless yormg plants 
are required, it should not be allowed to go to seed, as 
the seeds will scatter themselves, and it will be difficult 
to exterminate it. Mint may be readily propagated by 
pieces of the roots, which spread with great rapidity, and 
a very small piece will grow : it requires a moist soil, and 
will grow in any shaded situation. Thyme, Balm, Cha- 
momile, Savory, and Marjoram are easily increased by 
dividing the roots, and the two latter by seeds, if rec|uired. 
Kue and Southernwood can only be multiplied by cut- 
tings, or, what is better, by slips, though the former of 
these occasionally ripens seeds. Any common soil will 
suit herbs of this description. 

It is well to keep up a succession of young plants, as 
the old ones soon become unsightly or straggle about. 

IV.— SEEDS. 

The plants cultivated in kitchen gardens for their 
seeds, are Peas, Beans, Kidney Beans or French Beans, 
and Scarlet Runners. 

Peas, when fully ripe, contain, in one thousand parts, 
five hundred and one parts of starch, thirty-five parts of 
gluten, twenty-two parts of sugar, and the rest fibre ; but 
when green, their sugar is in much larger proportion than 
their starch, so that green peas are a luxury by no means 
so nutritive as ripe peas. 

The best soil for peas is one light and rich ; but with 



86 



PKACTICE GARDENING. 



care they will grow on any soil, if it be well manured when 
too poor or dry, and well drained when it inclines to be 
wet, as it is then apt to give more straw than pods. 

From the last week in February or even of January, to 
the beginning of June, or July, are the times for suc- 
cessive so\vings. The seed should not be more than one 
year old ; and one pint of seed will be suflS.cient to sow 
four rows, each five yards long. 

For the early crop the best sorts are the early frame, 
and Bishop's early dwarf. For a later crop, the Prussian 
blue, Egg pea, Spanish Marotto, and Knight's marrowfats, 
are preferable. The whole pods of sugar peas are eatable, 
but these are more curious than useful. Charltons 
and Hotspiu-s are only known in books, and cannot be 
pro culled. 

To allow due exposure to light and air, the early dwarf 
sorts should have the drills three feet apart ; such as the 
Prussian blues, four or five feet ; and the tall marrowfats, 
and Knight's green, six or seven feet asunder. In a 
moderate-sized garden, it is a good plan to sow the rows 
of peas from twelve to twenty feet apart, filling up the 
intermediate space with cabbages, onions, carrots, parsnips, 
French beans, or any summer crops. In practising this 
latter system, however, the rows should run parallel from 
north to south, not from east to west, as each side of the 
rows will thus be exposed to the sun, and the crops grown 
between them will not be shaded by them. It will always 
be safest to sow pretty thickly, to allow for all kinds of 
accidents. 

Peas should always be sown in double rows, that is, two 
rows should be sown nine inches from each other, as, by 
this method, much ground will be saved, and they will not 
require more than half as many stakes as they would if 
sown in single rows. The drills should be made full three 
inches deep, and as level as possible at the bottom, so as 
to have the crop of a regular height and size. Sow the 
seed moderately thick, to allow for the depredations of 
insects or vermin, and ha\ing trodden it in, cover it with 
the same depth of soil as that taken from the drills, after 
which, again tread the surface of the soil. 

Fowls should never be allowed to enter the garden, or 



ON REARING KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 



87 



they will scratch up the seed, and pigeons, sparrows, and 
other birds must be frequently scared, or they will pull up 
the whole of the crop after it has appeared above the 
ground. But perhaps the enemies which are most to be 
dreaded are mice, which frequently devour the whole crop 
soon after it is sown, by burrowing into the groimd for it. 
The only way to prevent this is to set a number of mouse- 
traps, of any kind, along the side of the rows, with some 
attractive and strong-smelling bait, into which they will 
generally find their way, when they may be destroyed. 

Slugs and snails will also at this time devour them, and 
ought to be sought for at night and killed, or quick-lime 
sprinkled between the rows. The gi^een-fly, a species of 
aphis, which attacks the crop when more advanced, may 
perhaps be killed by a sprinkling of tobacco-tea, or the 
leaves and tops attacked may be cut off into a dish, with 
a pair of scissors, in order to prevent the aphides from 
travelling away. 

Digging between the rows, particularly when the blos- 
soms show, and earthing-up or flat-hoeing several times, 
must be attended to as well as weeding, in the same way 
as for a potato crop. 

It will be important, as soon as the tendrils or claspers 
appear, to fix stakes along the rows, four feet high for 
the dwarfs, five or six feet high for those of middling 
height, and seven to nine feet high for the tall sorts. 
These stakes should have as many branches or twigs on 
them as possible ; and the young shoots or brush-wood, 
produced from the stems of old elms, are the best for 
this purpose. 

Pinching off the top shoots, when the second or third 
set of blossoms appear, will promote the filling of the 
pods. It is not advisable, in a small garden, to attempt 
growing peas for seed. In no way indeed are peas a pro- 
fitable crop, except where there is abundance of room to 
spare, or when they are reared for market, where they 
usually sell well. 

Where a very early crop of peas is required, (which, 
however, is extremely unprofitable,) they must be sown in 
the month of October or jSTovember, in a very sheltered 
situation, and one which is well exposed to the south ; and 



88 



PEACTTCE OF GARDEI-riXG. 



as soon as frosts become prevalent, tliey .should be well 
earthed up and staked. If brauclie? of beech can be 
procured for this purpose, as these genera b" : : iii tb iir 
old leaves through the winter, they will aifv: :^ a:-^ le pro- 
tection to the crops; but if some branches of spruce-m^ 
are placed on the outside of the other stakes, and removed 
during the day in fine weather, they will stand through 
the winter perfectly well : or, a sowing may be made m 
pots early in February, and kept in the house, turning 
them out in March, or very early in April, after having 
gradually inured them to the open air. By either of tbese 
methods green peas may be obtained considerably earlier 
than those sown in the spring, but the crops will not be 
so abundant, nor the pods so well filled. Very late peas 
are similarly unprofitable, as they generally get more or 
less mildewed, when the produce is either lost entirely, 
or becomes scanty and inferior. 

2 B-ans. 

Beans^ that is, broad Windsor or long-pod beans, Lave 
ver}^ similar proportions of starch to } ta-. but ratlier less 
sugar. Then- greater size renders rj_em a ru'^re profitable 
crop than peas. 

The best soil for beans is a stitf heavy loam, and there- 
fore, when a soil is light, the seed should be firmly trodden 
in before it is covered with earth. The time for sowing 
is from the end of February to the V oginning of July 
successively; and, for very early crops. <Jc:ober or No- 
vember. Small and frequent sovrings v.bil be most de- 
sirable, where they are gi'own for fam]h- use ; otherwise, 
they come in all at once, and are thus frequently wasted, 
or become old and disagreeable. 

For five rows, each five yards long, one pint of seed will 
be enough in early sowings, and a cuiarter of a pint more 
for late sowings. 

For the early crop the best sort r are the APizioan and 
early longpod ; for the full crop the br^ a l AViU'lsur i r 
longpod ; the seed not more than one year uld. The-e 
and all other sorts of beans should only be sown jn.-t 
v.d:iere each plant is wanted, as, if the seed be good ( and 



ON REARING KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 



89 



this is easily decided by the plumpness of its appearance) 
scarcely any of i-t will fail. 

When sown in drills, these should be exactly similar to 
those for the dwarf sort of peas, with subsequent similar 
diggings and flat hoeings, but they will not require so much 
earthing up. When a crop of beans is intended to be pro- 
duced between the rows of cabbages or kale, it will be 
much more convenient to sow the seed in beds in a warm 
border, and plant them in the required situation by a 
dibble when they are about two inches high. Beans, like 
peas, should always be grown^in double rows, and where 
they are to be dibbled out, shallow drills should be made 
for this purpose and the young plants placed in them at 
four inches apart, as soon as they are one or two inches 
above the surface of the ground; for if they are left too 
long in the seed-bed, they will never succeed well after- 
wards. They should be liberally watered at the time of 
planting, as well as on any subsequent occasion when they 
may require it. It is a very profitable plan to plant rows 
of beans at four or five feet distant, and place cabbages or 
other crops between them, as directed for peas. 

Early crops may be obtained by sowing in pots or 
frames, and transplanting in March. 

The depredations of mice must be guarded against; and, 
when the plants are just coming into bloom, the dolphin 
or black fiy, a sort of aphis, which first attacks the top 
and then spreads in myriads over the leaves, will commit 
frightful ravages if not checked. The bean crop was 
nearly destroyed by them in Scotland in 1833. 

The best remedy is cutting off the parts attacked with a 
pair of scissors into a dish. Even when the dolphin does 
not appear, it is advisable to take about an inch from the 
top of each bean plant, as this will prevent them from 
growing any higher, being much blown about by winds, 
and exhausting their strength to no purpose ; while, by 
turning the course of the sap, it will cause the beans to 
swell much better, and render them much finer and larger. 
This should be done just as the first blossoms are begin- 
ning to fade. It is not profitable in a small garden to save 
seed. When, through occurrence of violent winds, beans 
are thrown down, they must be supported by a few stakes 

I 2 



90 



x^iwACTICE or uAKL'EXIInG. 



placed here and there alt-'^ ^i^J^^^' side of the double 
^o^Y3, with tightly drawn string betweerr^^'®^^-. 

3. — Freiich or Kidney Beans. 

Kidney beans, as eaten along with the pod, contain 
some starch but more sugar in the young beans, and some 
sugar but more fibre in the pod, and are very wholesome 
and nutritive. 

A light dry soil is almost indis23ensable, for much wet 
causes the seed to rot. The time for sowing is from the 
last week in April to the middle of July. If sown earlier 
without protection, the frost will almost inevitably 
destroy the young plants: they may however be sown in 
a sheltered seed-bed, and planted out in May. 

For an early crop, the best sort is the speckled dwarf; 
for the next, the negro or Battersea, the dun-coloured, 
and the white Canterbury. 

The drills should be two feet or more apart, and the 
seed (not trodden down) covered with two or three inches' 
depth of earth. French beans are generally used in a dry 
state for soups, and for this purpose the white Canterbury 
is the best. 

In the London nurseries, every spare corner, even be- 
tween trees, is planted with French beans. 

4. — Scarlet Runners. 

Scarlet runners or white Dutch runners may be planted 
in any soil which is not too damp, three or four inches 
asunder along the bottom of a wall, and trained to strong 
packthread ; or they may be planted in the open ground 
at a distance of from four to six feet between the drills, 
and trained to sticks six or eight feet high ; or along the 
two sides of a path, with sticks seven feet high, bent over 
to form an arch. As they are very exhausting to the 
ground, they should be well manured. 

For four rows, four yards long each, half a pint of seed 
is enough. The seed may be sown at any time between 
the latter end of April and the middle of May, in drills two 
inches deep, covering them with the same quantity of earth, 
and observing to sow them in double rows where the 



ON HEARING COMMON FRUITS. 



91 



situatiou is exposed. As lias been said of peas, it is much 
better that tlie rows should run from north to south, 
that they may be duly exposed to light. 

In the south, few cottages are without scarlet ruuners, 
trained in one or other of the above ways. On the Con- 
tinent, they mix the red with the white, which has a very 
pretty appearance. The crop is very profitable, and, if 
sown in May or June, will continue to bear till killed by 
the frost. Abundance of seed may usually be obtained 
for a small garden, from those which chance to be left till 
too old for boiling ; but leaving pods to ripen, diminishes 
the after- crops of young pods. On the Continent, they 
cook the ripe beans without the pods, but these are not 
commonly used in Britain. Snails and slugs must be 
carefully guarded against when the plants are young. The 
best way is to search for them very early in the morning, 
and likewise to scatter quick-lime over the ground. 

II.— ON REARING COMMON FRUITS. 

All fruits, in such quantities at least as they can be 
produced in small gardens, may be considered more as 
luxuries than as affordiug much nutrimental food ; but 
most of them, when ripe, and still more when cooked in 
pies, puddings, tarts, jams, jellies, and other preserves, 
are wholesome, and form a pleasant variety at the tables 
even of the humblest cottager. 

It will not be profitable in a small garden to have many 
fruit trees, even of the smaller kinds, as they tend so 
much to injure the more important crops by shading them 
from the light. We shall therefore give only such direc- 
tions here as appear to be suitable for cottage gardens, 
beginniug with the smaller sorts. 

1. — Strawlerries, 

Strawberries contain a little sugar, a good deal of pulpy 
fibre, and a mild agreeable acid, and are exceedingly 
wholesome, being one of the few" fruits which almost any 
one may eat with impunity, and ripening at a healthy 
season of the year. 



92 



PEACTICE or GARDENING. 



The soil best adapted for them is a strong rich loam, and 
one that is tolerably adhesive and retentive of moisture ; 
for, as strawberries are generally injured in this country 
by excessive drought, it is best to provide against this 
calamity by planting them in a rather wet soil. A rich soil, 
however, is not indispensable, as almost any mould that is 
not too dry, will produce a greater or less quantity of fruit. 

Trenching the ground a foot and a hoif deep, and mixing 
plenty of well-rotted dung with the soil that is brought 
to the surface, is the best preparation. 

The time of planting is the first week in August for the 
offsets of the first spring runners, always choosing those 
that are large, and rejecting small ones. During the first 
year, cut off all runners as they appear. Any time from 
October to May will do for planting out old stools which 
have borne fruit once. Those which have borne twice are 
good for nothing, and should be thrown away. 

The offsets may be planted in a single row along the 
borders of the walks, at ten or fifteen inches apart ; if 
another row be made, it ought to be fifteen inches from 
the other. They may also be planted in clumps of three 
or more together, six inches or less apart, and three feet 
between the clumps. Beds with four rows each, and two 
feet between the beds for cabbages, answer well. But the 
best situation for planting strawberries is, where a row of 
dwarf apple, pear, or other trees, is grown on either or 
both sides of a walk, to have a bed of strawberries, foiir 
or five feet wide beneath them ; for in this situation they 
will be afforded that degree of shade which is necessary 
for them in dry weather, without injuring the trees or 
being injured by them. In these beds they should first 
be planted in four rows, two on each side of the trees, 
and the offsets from these should be allowed to spread 
so as to extend themselves over the whole of the bed, 
only cutting off annually those that are disposed to 
wander from the prescribed bounds of the bed. A straw- 
berry-bed of this description would produce a far greater 
crop than if planted out in single rows, and will continue 
bearing for a greater number of years, as well as be less 
hable to injury from drought. 
It is important to fix the roots well in the ground, other- 



ON REAPvIXG COMMON FRUITS. 



93 



wise tliey may be drawn out by eaithworms, or pushed 
out oi the ground on a thaw succeeding a hard frost. 

The best sort is Keen's seedling, and next to that the 
old pine, Wilmot's superb, the Roseberry, and the Haut- 
bois, or Hoboy ; the scarlet is the earliest ; and the small 
red Alpine, which some say is best when raised from 
seed, others say best from runners^ planted in August or 
September, at six inches' distance, will produce fruit from 
the end of May till the frost sets in. For a late crop, all 
the flower-stems should be cut off as they show, up to 
the end of June. The Alpine is not the wild or wood 
strawberry, as is commonly supposed. The Elton, the 
British Queen, and the Prince Albert are also very good 
sorts, the two latter being particularly large. 

Strawberries are much injured by hot dry weather, and 
therefore they must be abundantly supplied with water 
when this occurs, particularly just as the blossom falls ; 
but the blossom must not be wetted. Weeds must be 
cleared off, but in stirring the earth with a fork, not with 
a spade, care must be taken not to go too near the roots, 
as recommended by some. Birds must be guarded against 
as well as snails and slugs, which would eat the blooms 
and spoil the fruit. Pieces of slate, tiles, tin, boards, or, 
what is preferable, hay, straw, or dry moss, should be 
laid three or four inches thick under the fruit as it 
becomes ripe, to keep it clean from sand ; but this pre- 
caution is seldom necessary. The superfluous runners and 
dead leaves should be removed in February or March. It 
is a bad plan to cut off the leaves in autumn. What are 
termed male or barren plants, should alwa^-s be grubbed up. 

Very large strawberries are obtained by placing the 
plants singly, two feet apart, or in groups of three, the 
same distance between the groups, and keeping the 
runners cut off, and removing some of the blooms. Straw- 
berries succeed better if removed or re-planted every 
three years, and they should have a dressing of fresh soil 
and decayed manure each spring. On ground that slopes 
to the south, or raised banks, they will ripen earlier. And 
it is a good plan to plant them on small banks, covered 
with flat bricks, leaving openings for the plants, as they 
ripen sooner, and are kept cleaner by this method. 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



2. — Raspberries. 

This is perhaps superior in flavour to the strawberry, 
though not on the whole so palatable ; but it is neverthe- 
less good and very wholesome. 

It will grow in almost any soil, but requires rich earth 
and good manure to make it bear well, and the ground 
must be well and deeply dug or trenched before planting. 
The best time for planting is October, and though many 
individuals recommend February and March, we have 
more than once spoiled a crop by following their advice. 

From three to five offsets or suckers may be planted in 
a clump, taking care not to let the roots dry in the sun 
before planting, and the clumps should be from four to six 
feet asunder ; or in rows, east and west, four feet apart. 

If fruit be not wanted the first year, it will assist in the 
formation of stronger and finer young suckers to cut the 
plants down to within six inches of the ground. 

The best sorts are the Antwerp red and yellow, the next 
the cane ; but the sort which bears twice in the season is 
the most prolific. The wild sort is good for nothing. 

As strawberry plants bear but two years, raspberries 
bear only one year. The stems which are done bearing 
should therefore be cleared away and kept for flower- 
sticks, and also the weaker young shoots, leaving about 
five of the strongest young stems, shortened to four or five 
feet, in a clump to bear next season. They should be 
slightly bent towards the centre, and tied loosely with a 
small twig of willow round a stake, to prevent their being 
broken by the wind : they require moving into fresh soil 
every four years, on account of exhausting the ground. 

3. — Oooseberries. 

This excellent small fruit contains when ripe a good 
deal of sugar and pulpy fibre, flavoured chiefly with the 
malic acid. It is very wholesome and not unprofitable. 

The gooseberry will grow on the poorest soil, even on 
the top of an old wall ; but for producing good crops, 
requires a rich deep soil, well and deeply dug, or trenched 
and manured before planting,] ^ 



o:n reaeing common fruits. 



95 



The best time for planting cuttings or slips is October; 
but they will succeed if planted at any time between this 
and March, though those planted in October or November 
will produce the best plants, and will not be so liable to fail. 

The cuttings must be made from the shoots of medium 
size, (not the root-suckers of the same year,) about a foot 
or more in length, cutting off the top, and all the buds but 
four, and making two or three shallow notches in the 
bark at the root end, to cause root-fibres to sprout. The 
cuttings should invariably be slipped from the tree, for, 
as has been previously observed, they will be more likely 
to form roots when thus treated. When longer cuttings 
cannot be procured, six or even three inches, leaving only 
one or two buds, will be sufficient. 

As old trees do not look nor bear so well as young ones, 
a few cuttings ought to be struck every year, to replace 
decayed or inferior stocks. The sorts are almost innu- 
merable, and the Lancashire ones in particular, with 
drooping branches, are in general very large, such as 
Farmer's roaring-lion : but the smallest sorts, particularly 
the rough red, the smooth black, and the early green, are 
far superior in flavour. The champagne grows erect. 

The cuttings may at first be planted a few inches apart, 
and after they are rooted, may be transplated into a rich 
nursery bed, in rows two feet apart, and half that distance 
between the plants, taking care to prune ofi" all suckers 
and shoots on the lower part of the stem, and leaving 
four shoots, cut back to six inches. 

In the second year they may be finally planted out at six 
feet apart, cutting out all superfluous shoots, and leaving 
only two on each of the four leading ones, heading these 
down to six inches. There will now be eight shoots to 
form a head ; but future prunings must be conducted in a 
very diflPerent manner. After the tree is well formed, and 
has the requisite quantity of branches, the practice of 
shortening the principal shoots is not only unnecessary, 
but is extremely injudicious, except with such as are 
growing too vigorously, or are inclined downwards, or 
point towards the centre of the tree. In all other cases, 
the leading shoots should never be stopped, for every 
cultivator knows that gooseberry trees have a great 



96 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



tendency to produce young and useless shoots, and of 
course anything which promotes or increases that ten- 
dency, proves injurious to the tree, and prevents it from 
bearing so well as it otherwise would. In cutting out 
the superfluous shoots, they should invariably be taken 
off as closely as possible to the old ones, or may even be 
slipped out, if this operation is performed carefully ; for 
the numerous buds which are placed at the bottom of 
each shoot will only produce more young shoots if left. 

Gooseberries are apt to be seriously injured by the 
caterpillars of a saw-fly, which lays its eggs in rows along 
the under ribs of the leaves, and the caterpillars, after 
devouring the leaves, go into the ground, where they live 
in the pupa state till the following season. The most 
effectual remedy, is carefully looking over the bushes 
once a week, to watch the hatching of the eggs, when the 
few leaves infected may be picked off. Liquid manure 
from the stable or the privy, poured about the roots, is 
said to kill the pupse in winter, and at all events will do 
some good as manure if it do not kill them. 




Method of Spiral anS Funnel Training. 

The trees may be trained in the form of a fan or of an 
espalier hedge, if desired, or in single stems, with spurs 



ON HEARTXG COMMOX FRUITS. 



97 



only and no branches, to long stakes : or, what is more 
usual, somewhat in form of a funnel, by cuttino: out the 
centre branches to admit light. AVhen the fruit is to be 
gathered green, the thicker the bush and tlie more 
numerous the shoots the better; but when it is intended 
for ripening, the centre of the bush should always be left 
open to admit light and air. 

In the same way, by means of stakes to tie the shoots 
to, trees may be trained in form of a funnel or of a fan; 
but none of these modes of training are equal to that of 
allowing the tree to form a uniform and compact bush, 
nor will so much fruit be produced by any other method 
as by that last mentioned. It will be important to dig 
around the trees, and point in occasionally some well- 
rotted manure. 

AYhen the trees are old the new shoots will be very 
short, and when the fruit-spurs have borne for two or 
three years, they ought to be thinned out. For prize 
gooseberries, only one berry on a shoot is left to ripen. 

A.—Black Carrants. 

Black currants are chiefly used for making jelly — useful 
in cases of sore throat, and also as a wholesome luxury. 

The cultivation is precisely the same as that of the 
gooseberry, except that black currant trees require less 
pruning, as they do not produce such an abundance of 
young shoots. All dead or unproductive wood should be 
cut out every winter, and the shoots thinned, so as not to 
crowd each other, and to admit light, but very rarely 
shortened. 

The trees grow high and straggling, and, from re- 
quiring much room, are not very convenient in small 
gardens, except in out-corners, or trained to walls or 
palings; but even in this case they are not profitable. 
The ix'aples sort is by far the best for produce and 
flavour. Black currant trees are extremely liable to be 
infested with aphides, and if the leaves on which they 
appear are not promptly sprinkled with tobacco-water, 
they will entirely strip the trees of their leaves, and do 
great injury. 

K 



98 



PBACnCE OF GAKDENING. 



5. — R-:d and. Wkiie Currants. 

These fruits. p-.:::c;;l:.rly tbe red, contain le.-s 5-:.g:.r 
and more malic a:::' : ^e^; e. rie- ; ou: r. 

sugar added, are ]::■.'.? "c.'vle a^^ :". ~L:le$:L:e. c::_er :::ke .l 
c r ULC coked. 

The vrk::e L''c:cl:. Tr::L Vcll^wiilx fruit, and t^e vr^ire 
cry are tiie ';cs:. Ti_e red, though, smaller, is very 

Ecd and Li:e c arran: ii ees must be pruned in a very 
difieren: n:a_Ler lo : La- re commended for goc^berries, 
and sfirr :key have produced the required number of 
branciic-. 50 as to form a uniform bush, the greater part 
of the y uag liacts must 1 e annually taken ofi^ leaving 
only the 1 a aing iirs. an a s ack as are desired to make 
nevr branckes. and skcr:ening these to four or sis inches 
acccrdinr t : tkcir strenack. always cutting them off just 
above a bud tkat 2-'"::-:- C'V.twards ; for if this latter par- 
ticular is not a:tCL a- a tka p ints of the shoots will 
decay down to :kc ba. a. a a. a i_aTe a very unsightly appear- 
ance, or tke new ^kc ots wili ar lavin—ards, and crowd up the 
centre of tke r iant, In r ra.raing c iF the superfluous lateral 
shoots, they skc ai a ne t e c at e rf close to the old wood, 
but a short savar c: acaut a craarter or half an inch in 
lenatk she aid ce l-:t to each, as these spurs generally 
reduce an abttndance cf fruit. It is always important to 
cut c ut ci i na ssT u : a a t : kavc all the shoots open to the 
light, and to tkin cut tke - cur- trken old or crowded. 

In ncauaging tke cuttcug-. rroceed as directed for 
goosebcrrie-. except tkat tk^y a_ust net be slipped off, 
planting cut in tke sccc n:i year when the plants have 
eight inches of stem, and about five leading shoots. 
Both these and black currants are greatly injured by 
having the flower-buds eaten off by sparrows, bullfinches, 
and other small birds, which must be carefully scared 
away. Much harna is alsa done by aphides and theleaf- 
rolkug caterpillars -cf small moths. The best remedy is 
timtly 1 i king ck tke iu:kc:ed leaves, if it have been 
negUcted in wint-r tc scraae off the little gi'ey 
piatches of eggs, which are glued to the bark of the stem 
and branches. Whole Icranches are sometimes killed by 
the caterpillar of a tuoth eating into the wood. 



ON REARING COMMON FRUITS. 



99 



6. — Apple Tree^ 

Apple trees of large size are quite unfit for tlie small 
gardens treated of in this book, except at the out-corners, 
or as wall trees ; but a few dwarf standards, about twice 
the size of a gooseberry bush, may be admitted ; or one 
or two trained as espaliers, that is, in form of a hedge. 
"When planted as wall trees, the farther the roots can be 
conveniently put from the wall the better, as is shown in 
the following figure, while the mode of training the 
branches in a hanging position is shown on 
the gable wall of the cottage in the title-page. 
It may be observed, however, that apple trees 
seldom bear well when trained to a wall ; and 
where a garden is bounded by a wall, this may 
be much more profitably occupied by pear 
trees. Where a convenient space can be 
devoted to a row of apple trees trained in the 
manner of espaliers, their produce will be abun- 
dant, and they will occupy very little room. 
But if, in the part devoted to kitchen crops, a 
row of apple trees is planted on each side of 
the walk, and at about two or three feet frc 

the verge of the walk, 

with a bed of straw- ^^^^^^^^^^^ 
berries or parsley be- " ~ ' ' 

neath them, they will ^ 
produce a very profitable and useful crop. 

The most productive sorts are the Ha-vvthornden for 
summer use, and the Court of Wick for autumn and 
winter ; codlins are certainly good, but they are too strag- 
gling and vigorous in their growth for small gardens, and 
there is none so well adapted for this purpose, or so pro- 
fitable, as the Hawthornden. The trees must be procured 
from a nursery ready grafted, where they may generally be 
obtained at from two to four shillings each : or a practised 
gardener may be requested to gi^aft any required number 
of crab stocks, or, what is much better, French paradise 
stocks, which latter will check any exuberance in the 
growth of the graft, and render it more fruitful. This 




100 



PRACTICE OF GAEDEIN'LNG. 



operation, as before remarked, cannot be properly taught 
by the most detailed directions, without personal instruc- 
tion and practical illustration by a gardener. 

Having procured the trees, they should be planted out 
in the border before recommended, at about six feet from 
each other, in the months of October or November, never 
delaying this operation till the spring, otherwise their 
succeeding year's growth is often materially checked. 
A good quantity of manure should be mingled with 
the soil in the holes prepared for their reception, and 
the roots should be carefully laid out and covered, only- 
treading the soil very slightly about them. At the time 
of planting they should not be pruned, nor during the 
whole of the first season ; but in the succeeding winter 
the whole of the shoots should be cut down to within 
six inches or a foot of the stem, according to their size 
and strength, and the tree will thus form a bushy head 
in the ensuing season. Some recommend an annual 
jjruning, in order to keep the trees dwarf, and promote 
the formation of fruit-bearing spurs; but, for the former 
purpose, this operation is quite unnecessary with the 
Hawthornden sort, except with the very luxuriant shoots, 
as it has a natural tendency to grow dwarf, if headed down 
in the earlier stages of its growth ; and, as to the latter 
object, it is extremely doubtful whether pruning will pro- 
duce the desired effect ; — all the pruning therefore that 
is necessary after the second year, is to clear out the old 
decayed wood, and keep the shoots sufficiently thin to 
admit light and air, and prevent them from rubbing 
against each other when blown by the wind. Standards 
should never be admitted into small gardens, as they shade 
the groimd much more than dw^arfs, and are more liable 
to have their crop blovai off by the wind. 

Espaliers should first be trained to one central shoot, 
and this must be constantly headed down till it produces 
the required number of lateral shoots, which may be spread 
out in a horizontal direction. These lateral shoots should 
never be stopped till they have attained the desired length, 
when the end should be cut off, which will induce them to 
throw out other laterals and fruit spurs. All the after 
pruning that they will require, is to shorten the laterals of 



ON REARING COMMON FRUITS. 



101 



the latter description to one or two incKes each year, 
thereby ultimately forming them into fruit spurs. 

After the trees which have been planted out in the 
borders and treated as dwarfs have borne fruit for seven 
or more years, if they evince any signs of decay, or cease 
bearing so profusely as formerly, some young trees should 
be procured, and one of them planted between every two 
of the old ones, and when these young trees commence 
bearing, the old ones may be removed and thrown 
away; thus keeping up a constant succession of good 
bearing trees. 



7. — PeaVy Plum, and Cherry Trees, 

Nearly the same remarks will apply to these as to apple 
trees, with the exception that plum and cherry trees will 
not do well as espaliers or dwarfs, but bear best when 
trained against a wall, or treated as standards. They are 
extremely unprofitable in small gardens, and should 
never be cultivated in them except as mere luxuries. A 
few pear trees might likewise be treated as dwarfs, 
where desired, but in this case they would require annual 
pruning. 

The best and most prolific pears are, for a tall tree, the 
swo>n's egg, which will not bear much pruning ; the Jar- 
gonelle and Marie Louise for walls ; and the Marie Louise, 
Easter Beurre, and the Glout Morceau for dwarf pruned 
border plants. A few damson or bullace trees along the 
edge of a garden \vill not occupy much space, and are 
generally good bearers. The Morello cherry is useful on 
a north wall, being an abundant fruiter, and requiring little 
light. The Bigareau cherry is the finest, where a sunny 
aspect can be afi'orded. A Jargonelle pear tree is perhaps 
the best fruit tree which can be had for covering the end 
of a house which has either a good or an indifi'erent 
aspect. It may be managed as directed for espaliers, or 
trained in a fan form, and the shoots occasionally stopped 
to throw it into a spur-bearing state, pruning back all the 
side shoots every year, to induce the development of 
fruit spurs. 

K 2 



102 



PRACTICi:: OF GAIiDEI^aKG, 



8. — G^-ape yines. 

In the climate of London, or anywhere south or not 
much north of it, grape vines may supply an agreeable 
luxury or a profitable crop, where they can be trained on 
the wall of a dwelling or other erection, and have an aspect 
between south-east and south-west. Although a little 
uncertain in their ripening, on account of the variations 
in our climate, they will seldom fail if properly treated, 
and the hardiest sorts chosen. 

The black cluster and the white sweet-water are the only 
two kinds that can thoroughly be depended on ; the black 
Hamburgh, though a finer and better variety, ripening its 
crops comparatively seldom. 

Grape vines should be planted on a raised border that 
has been well drained, and is, in fact, coated with brick or 
stone rubbish, or rough gravel, at the bottom. It should 
not be more than two feet or two feet six inches deep ; as 
grapes ripen much better when the vines are grown on a 
rather shallow border. The soil should be composed of 
good turfy loam, rotten dung, and chalk if it can be had, 
in the proportions of one-half loam, two-sixths manure, 
and one-sixth chalk, which should be well mixed, and laid 
with a slope outwards from the wall. The vines may be 
planted in November. If, by chance, a path runs along 
the front of a house, and traverses the vine border, it 
should be paved, and used as little as possible for 
a few years, as much direct trampling would spoil the 
border. 

Grape vines should be planted young, — when not more 
than two or three years old, — in the month of I'^ovember. 
They may be trained horizontally from a single upright 
stem, or two branches may be trained horizontally, in 
opposite directions, towards the bottom of the wall, to the 
IcDgth of two or three yards each, and then turned up the 
wall, filling in the middle space with lateral shoots from 
these, trained upright. The pruning of the grape vine 
should be partly performed during the growing season, 
when it will require stopping and training, at least twice 
in the summer ; but principally in November, when it 



u:>T ilEAKING rLO~\YEHS. 



103 



should be cut prett\- severely. It had better be done by 
an experienced gardener, as written directions will be but 
an insufficient guide. 

It is a bad plan to leave too many bunches of grapes on 
a vine, as they will seldom ripen so well when very 
numerous. The leaves should never be plucked off 
around the fruit. Muslin bags will be useful when the 
grapes are getting ripe, to preserve them from wasps and 
other insects ; but the muslin ought to be very thin. A 
light-coloured wall will be less fitted for ripening grapes 
than a dark one. 

iii.-ox eeaPvIxCt flowers. 

Flowers, though not a necessary of life, add much to 
innocent pleasure, and their cultivation is a healthful 
employment, which most people like, and by which all 
may be improved. Solomon in all his glory,'' says our 
Saviour, " vras not arrayed like one of these." 

Within the last few years a taste for the cultivation of 
these interesting and beautiful j)roductions of nature has 
been so rapidly diffused, that it has now become almost 
universal, and the poorest peasant, who can scarcely find 
means to supply himself and his family with the common 
necessaries of life, nevertheless prides himself in having 
at least a few choice flowers, and experiences a degree of 
delight in cultivating them and watching their progress, 
which is almost unknown in the higher ranks of society, 
or amongst those individuals who possess and employ the 
means which are afforded them for collecting together the 
floral beauties of all parts of the world. To meet the 
wants and wishes of this large class of society, as well as 
to afford directions by which every person, who has neither 
the necessity nor the means for employing a gardener, 
may cultivate in perfection all descriptioDS of iiowering 
plants which do not require any artificial structure to pro- 
tect them, except such as every person possesses — a dv>'ell- 
iDg-room — is the object of the few succeeding remarks. 

The chief principles upon Vv'hich the successful rearing 
of flowers depends, are, not to gorge them with rich or 
watery food, which will produce leaves rather than flowers; 



104 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



and to give tliem as mucli ligat as possible till half-blown, 
and as little as possible after — tlie only way to bring out 
the coloiu'S^ which depend on oxygen gas obtained from 
the air, and to keep them from fading by losing their 
oxygen gas when it has been produced. 

These principles, however, though generally applicable, 
are by no means imiversally so ; and it would be as ob- 
viously inconsistent to prescribe general rules for the 
cultivation of flowering or other plants, as it would to say 
that all descriptions of animals require one and the same 
quantity and quality of food. In both cases it is well 
known that the objects vary as much in the measm^e and 
description of food they respectively require, as they do 
in size, shape, or appearance : and without some general 
or particular knowledge of their peculiar constitutions or 
habits, they cannot be kept alive, much less in a healthy 
condition. Animals, however, being furnished with instinct 
or reason, can reject any food which would be pernicious 
to them; but plants having no such faculties, when sub- 
jected to any improper treatment, invariably perish if that 
treatment is persevered in; so that it is of much greater 
importance that their nature should be fully understood, 
and their habits accurately ascertained. It is very inter- 
esting and beautiful to observe their power of adapting 
themselves to circumstances : but this power has certain 
limits, beyond which it utterly fails. 

Some flowering plants requii^e a highly nutritive soil, 
others again succeed best in an extremely poor one : many 
gi'ow and flourish in great perfection in a very diy or sandy 
soil, while for some a damp, adhesive, and retentive soil 
is necessary; a few seem to delight in a shaded situation, 
still the majority produce a gi^eater abundance of fine 
flowers when they are fully exposed to light ; a slight 
protection is necessaiw for many in the winter months, but 
others endure severe frosts with perfect impunity. Under 
these circumstances, a few vague and general directions 
would, at best, be futile and useless : and to enter 
minutely into the subject, would occupy more room than 
a work of this size and price would allow ; therefore, it 
has been considered best to pass lightly over the less 
valuable sorts, and those which requke only the ordinary 



ON REARING i'L0W£R5, 



105 



system of mauagement., and to dwell more particularly on 
the most showy kinds^ or such as are more difficult to 
cultivate, or, at least, require a departure from the usual 
course. In the following arrangement, then, some general 
directions will be given for cultivating all the most orna- 
mental plants which can be procured or managed by in- 
dividuals of limited means, and a few choice lists will also 
be famished of such as are most worthy of attention, 

1. — Hardy Flowering Shruls. 

The large class of plants which come under the deno- 
mination of flowering shrubs, and which all possess some 
degree of ornament or beauty, are extremely dissimilar 
with regard to size ; and, as many of them grow to ten or 
even twenty feet high, the larger sorts are by no means 
adapted for small gardens, and can only be grovrn where 
the garden is bounded by shrubberies, or where it is large 
enough to admit of the introduction of a clump or border 
of shrubs of such a size and height as those above men- 
tioned. There are many, however, which may with pro- 
priety be placed in the centre of a detached clumj), or at 
the back of a border, and in such situations, if the re- 
maining portion of the bed or border is judiciously planted, 
no part of them will be seen but the foliage and flowers, 
and they will thus form an extremely interesting ancl 
ornamental feature in the garden. 

As the plants of this description are as dissimilar in 
habit as they are in size, it will be convenient to arrange 
them in three divisions, and offer a feAV desultory remarks 
upon the cultivation of such as can be admitted into 
gardens of limited extent. Floweriug shrubs naturally 
divide themselves into evergreen shrubs, or such as are con- 
stantly furnished with leaves ; deciduous shrubs, or those 
which annually shed their leaves; and climbing shrubs, 
or such as require to be trained to poles, trellises, or walls. 

Evergreen floivering shrubs, in which term is compre- 
hended a large and important part of the first principal 
division of this subject, are perhaps the most beautiful and 
ornamental of all flowering shrubs, as they not onl\' enliven 
the garden in the summer months with their beautiful 



106 



PEACTICE OF GARDENING. 



blossoms, but by the constant verdui'e of their foliage, 
throw a charm over the winter scene, when all nature 
around appears desolate and inanimate. These, there- 
fore, should be cultivated in preference to any deciduous 
flowering shrubs, as it is important, in a small garden, 
to grow only such plants as wHl afford the gi-eatest variety 
of ornamental objects at all seasons of the year. 

The larger kinds, such as common laurels, Portugal 
laurel, holhes, sweet bays, arbutus or strawberry tree, 
bos, and others, though all of them exceedingly orna- 
mental, are too large to be numerously admitted into small 
gardens, except their growth be constantly checked by 
annual pruning. Still, the dwarf kinds of hollies, the 
strawberry tree, and the box, and, in warm districts, the 
sweet bay, generally grow sufficiently small for gardens 
of moderate size, while the Portugal laurel and the 
common hollies may be pruned into any form according 
to taste, as also may the box or yew ; but the common 
laurel generally grows too straggling to be worthy of intro- 
duction into small shrubberies. All these may be -pro- 
pagated with facility by layers, and will thrive in almost 
any soil, provided it is not too dry ; a moderately stiff 
loamy soil being most suitable. 

In planting out evergreens, it is important that this 
operation should be performed in the autumn or winter 
months (from September to November is the best time) , 
and that particular care should be taken not to injure the 
root-fibres in removing them, as well as to take them up 
with as much earth as possible about the roots. By 
attention to these particulars, and choosing a dull and 
cloudy day for planting them, they may be removed with 
safety, even though they should be twenty feet in height ; 
but small plants will undoubtedly succeed best. If the 
numerous interesting species of pine, fir, and cypress 
may be allowed a place in the garden, the two former 
can only be multiplied either by seed or inarching, and as 
the latter is by far the most expeditious method, it must 
be performed by an experienced gardener, and the plants 
so treated will need shading till they have become firmly 
united. In other respects, they require precisely the 
same treatment as those before mentioned. 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 



107 



iriie species of evergi^eens yet noticed, are chiefly 
remarkable for the beauty of their foliage and general 
a];>pearance ; but there is a much greater and far more 
interesting portion, which are cultivated for the conspi- 
cuous appearance of their flowers as well as foliage, and 
whose dwarf habits render them available to the smallest 
gardens. To these, therefore, it will be necessaiy to 
devote particular attention, and to enter more minutely 
into the subject of theii' cultivation. Before, however, 
any remai^ks are made on this subject, it will be well to 
give a short list of such as are most beautiful, and may be 
most readily procured, arranging them according to the 
time of flowering and the height, so that a succession of 
flowers may be constantly maintained, by selecting the 
plants according to the following li^t : — 



SELECT LIST OF EVERGREEN^ FLOWEKING SHRUBS. 

From six inches to two feet high, and upwards. 

Greater Periwinkle (Fiwca »7Wj>*ar). Flo-jrers in March. Blue. 
Lesser Peri-vvinkle (F. 7n!>2ar). FL in March. Violet-coloured. 
Lesser White Periwinkle (F. minor, alia). Fl. in March. White. 
Lesser Double Periwinkle (F. minor, plena). Fl. in March. Blue. 
Bastard Box (PolygaJa chamceluxus), Fl. in March. Yellow. 
Common Heath and varieties {Erica vulgaris, et var). Fl. in March. 

Various colours. 
Flesh-coloured Heath {Erica earned). Fl. in March. Pink, 
aiarsh Labrador Tea {Ledum palustre). Fl. in April. TNTiite. 
Box-leaved Ammyrsine {Ammgrsine huxi/olia). Fl. in April. White. 
Garland-flower {Daphne cneorurn). Fl. in April, Pink. 
Small-calyxed Andromeda {Andromeda calgculata). Fl. in April. 

White. 

Evergreen Candy-tuft {Tberis sempervirem). Fl. in April. White. 
Trailing Chamseledon {Chamceledon procunibens). Fl. in April. Pink. 
Purple Rock Rose (Ci5ius^uri/':/rei/5). Fl. in May. Purple. 
Maran>leaved Sun Rose {Helianthemum raari/oliian) . Fl. in May 
Yellow. 

Common Sun Rose {H. vulgare). Fl. in May. Yellow. 
Polium-leared Sun Rose {H. poUfollam). Fl. in Mav, White. 
Creeping Mahonia {MoJionia rejjuis . Fl, iu May. Yellow. 
English Petty Whin ' Genista A/igUm). Fl, in ilay. Yellow. 
Wood Genista (6^. Fl. in May. Yellow. 

Polium-leaved Menziesia {^Unziesia poUjolia). Fl. in June. Purple 
Blue Menziesia (.1/. ccEruUa). Fl. in June. Blue. 
Tetralis {Erica t^tralix), Fl, in June, Flesh-colonred. 



lOS 



PliACTICE OF GAUDENING. 



White Tetralix {E. ietralix, alia). Fl. in Jnrxe. Wliite. 
Grey Heath (E. cinerea). Fl. in June. Purple. 
Polium-leaved Andromeda [ Andromeda foli folia) . FL in June. Pink, 
Spotted Sun Uosc {Helianthemum f/uUatum). Fl. in June. Yellov'^ 
Ledura-leaved Sun Rose(JI. ledifolium). Fi. in June. Yello^^^ 
r^piny F.room {Cytisus spinosus). Fl. in June. Yellow. 
Prickly Butcher's Broom {Ruscus aculeatus). Fl. in Jnly. Grci-n. 
Large calyxed St. John's Wort {Hyxjericum calycinum). Fl. in July. 
Yellow. 

Hoary Rock Ros^e {Cistus canescens). Fl. in July. Red. 
Montpelier Rock Rose (0. monspeliensis). Fl. in July. White. 
Thick-leaved Andromeda (^ncZroTwecZa crassifolia). Fl.in Aug. Pink. 
German Genista (G'emsto Crermanica). Fl. in Aug. Yellow. 
Dwarf Polium-leaved Menziesia {Blenziesia polifolia, nana). Fl. in 
Aug. Purple. 

Surrey Sun Rose {Heliantliemura Surrejanum), Fl. in Sept. Yellow. 
Italian Sun Rose {H, Italicum). Fl. in September. Yellow. 
Strict Heath (^Hca siHcia). Fl. in September. Purple. 
Aloe-leaved Adam's Needle {Yucca aloifolia). Fl. in September. 

Greenish-white. 
Southern Fleath {Erica australis). Fl. April to August. Pink. 
Narrow-leaved Cotoneaster {Cotoneaster micropliylla). Fl. in June 

and July. White. 
Holly-leaved Mabonia {3Iahorda aquifolium). Fl. in April and M.iy. 

Yellovy. 

Many-flovrered Andromeda {Andromeda florihunda). Fl. in March 

and April. White. 
Catesby's Andromeda {Andromeda Catesdoii). Fl. in May and June. 

White, 

Hairy-leaved Rose-bay {Rhododendron Mrsutum) . Fl. in M:iy and 
June. Crimson. 

Rusty-leaved Rose-bay {Rhododendron ferruginmm). Fl. in May and 

June. Crimson. 
Shallow Gaultheria {Gaultheria Shallon). Fl. in May. White 
Ij'^iveiidev {Lavandula spica). Fl. in July and August. Blue. 



From two to four feet high and upwards. 

Laurestlne {fihurnum tinus). Fl, in March. White. 
Hairy Laurestine (F. tinus, hirta). Fl. in March. White. 
Shining-leaved Viburnum (F. lucidum). Fl. in March. White 
Spurge Laurel {Daphne laureola). Fl. in March. Green. 
Hill Daphne (i). co/Jma). Fl. in March. Pink. 
Daurian Rhododendron {Rhododendron dauricum). Fl. in March, 
Purple. 

Mediterranean Heath (£!nca ilfeii^erranea). Fl. in April. Purple. 
Double European Furze {Ulex Europoea, plena). Fl. in April. 
Yellow. 

Spreading Genista (6^eni^ia_pafcws). Fl.in April. Yellow. 
Rigid Lyonia {Lyonia rigidafj. Fl, in April. White. 
Whitened Andromeda {Andromeda dealhata). Fl. in April. Pink 
Pontic Daphne {Daphne pontica). Fl. in April. Greenish yello ./. 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 



109 



Canadian Labrador Tea {Ledum Canadense). Fl. iu May. White. 
Greenland Labrador Tea (i. Greenlandia). Fl. iu May. "White. 
Pontic Rhododendron and varieties {Bhododendron ;ponticum, et var.). 

Fl. in May. Various colours. 
Broad-leaved Kalmia {Kahnia latifoUa). Fl. in May. Red. 
Narrow-leaved Kalmia and varieties {K. ajigusti folia, et var.). Fl. in 

May. Red. 

Pilose Green-weed (Genista pilosa). Fl. in June. Yellow. 
Dyer's Green-weed (6^. tinctoria). Fl. in June. Yellow. 
Purple Phlomis {Phlomis purpureus). Fl. in June. Purple. 
Shrubby Jerusalem Sage {P. fruticosus). Fl. in June. Yellow. 
Montpelier Rock Rose {Cistus monspeliensis). Fl. in June. White. 
American Spindle Tree (^^^on?/7^^^^sJ./^^er^can^^s). Fl. in July. AYhite, 
Round-leaved Rock Rose (Cistus rotundifolius). Fl. in July. Purple. 
Small-flowered Genista (G-enista parviflora). Fl. in August. Yellow. 
Shining Privet (Ligustrum hicidum). Fl. in August. White. 
Irish Furze (U. Hibernica). Fl. in September. Yellow. 
Acuminate Adam's Needle (Yucca acuminata). Fl. in Sept. White. 
Ever-blowing Rose (Piosa semper fior ens). Fl. all the year. Crimson. 
Oval-leaved Garrya (Garrya elliptica). Fl. in February and March. 
Greenish. 

Rosemary-leaved Grevillea (Gh-evillea rosmarinifolia). Fl. in April 

and May. Reddish green. 
Japan Aucuba {Aucuba japonica). Fl.in May and June. Chocolate. 
Gum Cistus (Cistus ladaniferus). Fl. in June and July. White, with 

brownish spots. 

Laurel-leaved Rock Rose (Cistus laurifolius). Fl.in June and July. 
White. 

Alaternus (Bhamnus Alaternus). Fl. in Feb. and March. Greenish. 

Though occasionally a few plants of this description 
continue in flower through the three last months of the 
year, yet, as no dependence can be placed on them, we 
refrain from adding them to our list, and proceed to point 
out the prominent features that should be attended to in 
cultivating any and all of those just specified. 

Ehododendrons, which may be termed with propriety 
the glory of our gardens, require a very peculiar kind of 
treatment in order to grow them to perfection ; and as 
they are undoubtedly the most showy of all evergreen 
shrubs, and, being dwaif, are well adapted for the smallest 
gardens, it is important that the proper method of 
growing them should be generally known. The first and 
principal point to be attended to in their cultivation is, 
to plant them in pure peat or heath mould, and though a 
small addition of light loamy soil will not injure them, 
they will never thrive so well where planted in loam alone, 

L 




110 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



or common garden-soil. But, almost equal in importance 
to soil, is the situation in which they are planted ; for, 
where they are exposed to the full blaze of a spring or 
summer sun, the leaves become brown and sickly, and the 
whole plant frequently perishes from drought, even though 
water should be daily supplied ; for no artificial watering 
will preserve the plants during a dry season, in such a 
situation, except they be planted in a wet and clayey soil, 
which is equally as injurious as drought. A sheltered and 
shaded situation is, therefore, most suitable for rhodo- 
dendrons ; and if this shelter and shade can be afforded 
by a wall or high hedge, it is far preferable to planting them 
under large trees. A border, which has a northern aspect, 
and is backed by a wall, is admirably adapted for this 
purpose : and, though such a situation is by no means 
indispensable, yet the plants will be found to flourish 
better the more this particular is attended to. 

Where they are unavoidably planted in an open, exposed 
plot of ground, it will be necessary to water them fre- 
quently in the spring and early part of the summer, if the 
weather is dry, otherwise their flower-buds will wither 
and never expand themselves : but if they are placed in 
the situation here recommended, this attention will be 
seldom necessary, as the soil, by being shaded, will be 
kept sufficiently moist. 

These remarks are equally applicable to kalmias, andro- 
medas, and all similar plants, which likewise require moist 
heath-soil and shade to grow and flower them in perfection. 
But there are others, such as heaths, menziesias, whortle- 
berries, rock-roses, and sun-roses, which, instead of requir- 
ing shade, cannot be placed in too exposed a situation, as 
they grow naturally on open moors, or rocks, and seem to 
delight in receiving the most vigorous and scorching rays 
of the sun. These, also, with the exception of the two 
latter, grow best in a peat soil or bog earth ; but the rock- 
roses and sun-roses will thrive well in any poor soil that is 
not retentive of moisture, and if pieces of rock, soft stone, 
or chalk, are mingled with the soil, the plants will grow 
and flower much better. All the species of these latter 
genera are exceedingly ornamental, as they produce a great 
abundance of flowers of various colours, and are of \ery 



ON BEARING FLOWEKS. 



Ill 



dwarf habits, thus being suitable for the smallest gardens ; 
they are also readily procured, as many of them are natives 
of Britain. 

The flesh-coloured Heath {Erica carnea) is a most ele- 
gant and interesting little shrub, since it blooms a good 
part of the winter, and far on into the spring. Andromeda 
jlorihunda blossoms at a similar season, and is extremely 
beautiful, but scarce. It requires a peaty soil. The 
hardy varieties of the scarlet or crimson Rhododendron 
and the white-flowered kinds are particularly valuable ; 
the former being so showy, and the latter blooming later 
than any of the others. 

Laurestine, double furze, and genistas, likewise grow 
best in an exposed situation, and will thrive in any loamy 
soil ; the two former are sometimes injured by severe 
frosts, but they will generally sprout again from the roots, 
and should never be allowed to grow too large, for young 
plants will flower much better, and maintain a much more 
compact and healthy appearance than very large and old 
ones. The two former of these, especially, should never 
be absent from any garden, as they flower in most un- 
bounded profusion. The various species of Daphne, which 
are all more or less beautiful, require a rather light loamy 
soil ; the spurge-laurel {D. laureola) will thrive best under 
trees, or in a shaded situation ; but all the rest difi'er 
from it in this respect. The garland-flower {D. cneoruni), 
which is justly said to be one of the most lovely and 
fragrant plants known in Britain, is rather difficult to 
cultivate, and requires to be planted in an airy, exposed 
situation, and in a soil composed of equal parts of light 
loam and peat ; it may be procured for a very trifling 
sum, and no garden should be without it, as it is very 
dwarf, produces a great number of clusters of pretty 
pink blossoms from April to September, and these are 
most delightfully fragranf. 

The periwinkles will grow in almost any situation, and 
any soil that is not too dry, and they are admirably 
adapted for planting under trees and shrubs ; they readily 
multiply themselves by suckers. All the evergreen 
shrubs thus enumerated can be abundantly propagated 
by layers ; many produce naturally an abundance of 



112 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



suckers, whicli may be removed in tlie autumnal months, 
and planted where reqmred ; some few strike readily 
from cuttings, as the double furze ; and others ripen seed 
freely, such as rhododendrons and andromedas : but as by 
this latter method of propagation, the seedlings require 
great attention, and are some years before they produce 
flowers, it is not so generally available as that by layers. 
Where, however, new varieties of rhododendron are de- 
su'ed, the only way to obtain them is to impregnate the 
flower of one sort with the pollen of another, and sow the 
seed in a slight hot-bed as soon as it is ripe, pricking out 
the plants, and re-planting them when required. 

Certain kinds of evergreens are particularly adapted 
for growing beneath the shade of trees and other plants. 
Of these, the common holly, the box, MaJionia aqui/olhun, 
common rhododendrons, privet (which is nearly ever- 
green), JEfypcricum calycinum (likewise almost evergreen), 
Auciiha japonica, and common ivy are the best. In such 
positions, they will not only live but flourish, and cover 
the ground, wliich would otherwise look blank and bare, 
with a perpetually green mantle. 

Some evergreens are further suitable for forming into 
hedge-rows ; for which purpose they will be more con- 
stantly effectual than deciduous plants. Hollies, box, 
yew, and privet are the chief of them ; and they will all 
bear hard pruning or clipping, though the two former 
require but little dressing. 

The beautiful tribe which includes the Cypresses, Juni- 
jDers, Arbor Yitfe, Irish Yew, &c., Avill be very effective 
in a garden if they can be admitted ; as their spiry forms 
and delicate branches form a striking contrast to the 
roundness and fulness of more ordinary shrubs. Philly' 
rea latifolia or P. anr/ustifoUa are likewise good and useful 
evergreens; the foliage of the last being particularly grace- 
ful and of a very exotic appearance. If an open space can, 
be spared, too, for the Arauraria imhricata, its singular 
and stately form will tell wonderfully in a small garden, 
especially on a little lawn. And it may now be pur- 
chased for a moderate sum. 

Deciduoiis fioicering shrubs are undoubtedly more nu- 
merous than those last treated of, but they are by no 



ox REARING FLOWERS. 



113 



means so ornamental, or at least they are only ornamental 
at certain seasons of the year, while evergreens retain 
their foliage, and consequently a great part of their beauty, 
throughout the whole of the year. Still there are many 
deciduous flowering shrubs which are extremely beau- 
tiful when in flower ; and out of the almost innumerable 
soi-ts we shall now give a select list of those which are 
most ornamental, and which are suitable for small 
gardens, rejecting such as are not easily procured, or 
attain to too large a size. 

SELECT LIST OF DECIDUOUS FLOWERING SHRUBS. 
From six inches to two feet high. 
Parsley-leaved Yellow Root {Xanthoriza apiifoUa). Flowers in 

April. Purple. 
Glaucous Kalmia (Kalmia glauca), FI. in April. Red. 
Crenate-leaved Spirpea [Spircea crenata). Fl. in April. White. 
DwdiTf Cytisns (Cytisus'/ianns). Fl. in May. Yellow. 
White Persian Lilac [Syringa Persica, alba). Fl. in May. White. 
Common Dwarf Almond {Amygdalus nana). Fl. in May. Red. 
Dwarf Cherry (Cerasus pumila). Fl. in May. White. 
Beautiful 'WhoTt]eheTTj {Vaccinium vejmstum). Fl. in June. Pink. 
Spiniest Scotch Rose 2Lnd vsLvieties {Hosa spinosissima, et var.). Fl. 

in June. Various colours. 
French Rose and varieties {Hosa gallica, et var,). Fl. in J une. Various 

colours. 

Small- leaved Burgundy Rose {Eosa paruifolia). Fl. in June. Purple. 
Siberian Berberry (Berberis Sibirica). Fl. in June. Yellow. 
Hoary Spiraea (Spircea cana). Fl. in June. White. 
Pretty Spiraea (S. bella). Fl. in July. Red. 

Kalm's St. John's Wort (Bypericum Kalrnianum). Fl. in July. 
Yellow. 

Scentless Syringa (Philadelphus inodorus). Fl. in July. White. 
Dwarf Clethra {Clethra nana). Fl. in August. White. 
Garden Hydrangea {Hydrangea hortensis). Fl. in August. Pink. 
Corymbose Spiraea (Spircea corymbosa). Fl. in August. White. 
Silver-leaved Cytisus ( Cytisus argenteus). Fl. in August. Yellow. 
Autumnal Mezereon (Daphne mezereum, auturanale). Fl. in Sept. Red. 
American Ceanothus (Ceanothus Americanus). Fl.in Sept. White. 

From two to four feet high, and upwards. 
Mezereon (Daphne mezereum). Fl. in February. Pink. 
Black Lonicera (Lonicera nigra). Fl. in March. Yellow. 
Japan Quince (Cydonia Japonica). Fl. in March. Scarlet. 
White Japan Quince (C. Japonica alba). Fl. in March. White. 
Siberian Almond (^?/2j/5^(iaZ?/.5*Sf5(>("ca). Fl. in March. Red. 
Japan Kerria (iCer/'ia t/a^onica). Fl. in March. Yellow. 
Slender Syringa (Fhikuielphus gracilis). Fl. in March. White. 
Tartarian Lonicera (Lonicera Tatarica). Fl. in April. Pink. 

L 2 



114 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



Smooth Spirsea (Spircea Icevigata). Fl. in April. Red. 
Common Cotoneaster {Cotoneaster vulgaris). Fl. in April. Pink. 
Blood-flowered Currant {Ribes sanguineum). Fl. in April. Red. 
Common 'Bxoom^Gytisusscoparius). Fl. in April. Yellow, 
White-flowered Common Broom {G. scoparius, alius). Fl. in April. 
White. 

Common Berberry and varieties [Berderis vulgaris, et var.). Fl. in 
April. Yellow. 

Common Lilac and varieties {Syringa vulgaris, et var.). Fl. in May. 

Various colours. 
Persian Lilac {S. Ptrsica). Fl. in May. Purple. 
Double Dwarf Almond {Amygdalus pumila). Fl. in May. Red. 
Golden Currant [Rites aureum). Fl. in May. Yellow. 
Azalea, many species and varieties {Azalea spe. et var.). Fl. in 

May. Various colours. 
Rusty Sweet Briar and varieties {Rosa ruMginosa, et var.). Fl. in 

May. Various colours. 
Wayfaring Tree (Vihurnum lantana). FL in May. White. 
White Portugal Cytisus ((7?/^zsMs aZ&ifs). Fl. in May. White. 
Yly 'LomcQm {Lonicer a Xylosteum). FL in June. Yellow. 
Chinese Lilac {Syringa Chinensis). FL in June. Violet colour. 
Moss Rose and varieties {Rosa muscosa, et var.). FL in June. 

Various colours. 

Provence Rose and varieties {R. centifoUa, et var.). Fl. in June. 

Various colours. 
Common Syringa {Philadelphus vulgaris). Fl in June. White. 
'Rough DeutziA {Deutzia scahr a). FL in June. White. 
Showy Leycesteria {Leycesteria formosa), Fl. June to September. 

White. 

Florid Allspice {Galycanthusfloridus). FL in June. BroAvn, 
GrWQldiQv Ro^Q {Vihurnum opulus). Fl. in June. White. 
Round-headed Buddlea {Buddlea glohosa). Fl. in June. Orange. 
Willow-leaved Spiraea {Spiraea salidfolia). Fl. in June. Pink. 
Viscous Azalea and varieties {Azalea viscosa, et var.). Fl. in July. 

Various colours. 
Shrubby Cinquefoil {Potentilla fruticosa). FL in July. Yellow. 
Elegant Sumach {Rhus elega7is). Fl. iu July. Red. 
Common Tree Bladder Senna {Golutea ai-borescens) . Fl. in July. 

Yellow. 

Common Snowberry {Symphoricarpos racemosus). FL in July and 

August. Pinkish white. 
Sorbus-leaved Spiraea {Spircea sorhifolia). Fl. in August. White. 
Smooth Sumach {Rhus glabra). Fl. in August. Greenish-yellow 
French Tamarisk {Tamarix gallica). FL in August. Pink. 
Rush Broom {Spartium Junceum). Fl. in August. Yellow. 
Syrian Hibiscus and varieties {Hibiscus SyiHacus, et var.). Fl. in 

August. Various colours. 
Tall St. John's Wort {Hypericum elatum), Fl. in August, Yellow. 
Woolly Spiraea {Spircea tomentosa). Fl. in September. Pink. 
Many-flowered Cinquefoil {Potentilla floribunda). Fl.in Sept. Yellow. 
Alder-leaved Clethra {Glethra alnifoLia). FL in September. White. 
Indian Rose and varieties {Rosa Indica, et var.). Fl. all the year. 

Various colours. 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 



115 



LOW DECIDUOUS TREES. 
Laburnum {Cytisus Laburnum). Fl. in June. Yellctr. (Both 

English and Scotch varieties). 
^'howy VyrViSi {Pyrus spectoMlis). Fl. in May. Pink. 
ShoAvy Mespilus [JlespUus canadensis), Fl.inMay. Wliite. 
Grape Pear {AmelancMer hotryapiura). Fl. in May. White. 
Blood-coloured Amelanchier {Avielanchier sanguinea'). Fl. in June. 

White. 

Common Almond [Amygdalus communis). Fl. in April and May. Pink. 
Scarlet-flowering HaTvthorn {Cratcsgus oxyacantTia, var.). Fl. in 

May and June. Red. 
Pink-flowering Hawthorn (Crataegus oxyaca.niha, var.). Fl. in May 

and June. Pink. 
Double White Hawthorn {Cratcegvs oxyacantlia, var.). Fl. in May 

and June. White. 
Double Pink Hawthorn (Cratoegus oxyacantTia, var.). Fl. in June. 

Pink. 

Double-blossomed Cherry {Cerasus vulgaris, flore pUno). Fl. in May 

and June. White. 
Red-flowered Horse Chestnut (Pavia ruhra). Fl. in June. Red. 
3 adsiS Tree {Cercis siliquastrum). Fl. in May. Pink. 
Common Dogwood (Cormis mas). Fl. in June. White. 

Most deciduous flowering shrubs may be cultivated 
without the slightest difficulty, and on this account they 
recommend themselves to the notice of every person pos- 
sessing a garden ; besides which, the majority of them will 
flourish in any common soil, and many will thrive well 
when shaded by other trees. In one respect their culti- 
vation differs materially from that of evergreens, and that 
is, the gi'eater part of them require an annual pruning. 
The various beautiful species of bladder-senna and 
rose are of this class, and many others derive much benefit 
from a slight pruning, which is also necessary to prevent 
them from becoming too large. As the species and 
varieties of rose are so very numerous, and all of them 
extremely beautiful, it may be well to advert more par- 
ticularly to their cultivation and maDagement. 

The species and varieties of the rose being almost num- 
berless, it is natural to suppose that some are very dif- 
ferent in habit to others, and consequently require to be 
treated in a different manner. Thus, for instance, cabbage 
roses, China roses, and Scotch roses, each require a par- 
ticular mode of management, and that which is given to 
one, is by no means suitable to either of the others. AYith 
regard to soil, however, it may be observed, that they all 



116 



PrvACTICE OF GARDENING. 



thrive best iu a rich loamy soil ; but, like potatoes^ the}- are 
said to abstract the virtues of soils so rapidly, as to render 
it necessary to remove them every thi^ee or four years, iu 
order to have fine flowers. This statement is certaioly 
■worthy of some attention, and being productive of no bad 
effects, it may possibly prove advantageous. Cabbage or 
Provence roses {R. centifolia), French roses {H. gallica), and 
moss roses (it. muscosa), require precisely the same kind 
of treatment, and whether they are kept as standards or 
dwarfs, must be annually pruned. They may be propa- 
gated in various ways, though for dwarf sorts, layering is 
the best method, and for standards, budding will be most 
successful. As the dwarf sorts usually produce an abun- 
dance of suckers, these may be made to form distinct 
plants by removing them in the autumnal months ; but, 
as has been before remarked, roses produced in this way 
never fl.ower so early or so freely as those which have been 
raised from layers : therefore layering is much the best 
method. To the directions before given for layering roses, 
it may be added that the layered shoots should always bo 
pruned down to a bud, and left about six inches out of the 
soil ; this pruning vrill cause them to form young shoots 
from each of the buds left, and by the end of the first year 
they will have attained to a sufi&cient size for removing. 
Standai^d roses may be obta,ined, by budding any esteemed 
sort on young stocks of the dog rose, or sweet briar, and 
these latter should be procured and planted in the 
required situation a year previous to the time of budding 
them, as by this practice they will have become well 
estabhshed in the soil, and the buds that are introduced 
will not be liable to injury from shifting the plant. 

Priming is by far the most important feature in the 
cultivation of the sorts of roses now under consideration ; 
for where this operation is neglected, the floAvers will 
speedily degenerate into mere insignificance, and the 
stems will become bare and unsightly ; and, indeed, where 
these sorts of roses are but improperly or insufficiently 
pruned, a deterioration in the character of the flowers 
will invariably ensue. Many individuals, who are unac- 
quainted with gardening, imagine, that by closely pruning 
their rose trees they would deprive them of the means of 



ox REARIXCt flo^tees. 



117 



producing flowers, and consequently that the plants thus 
treated will not flower so well ; but this is a vulgar error, 
at least so far as relates to the sorts now alluded to : for, 
on the contrary, the more closely they are pruned, within 
certain limits, the greater number of finer flowers will be 
produced. In pruning roses, as in all other plants, the 
shoots must not be uniformly shortened to within a certain 
distance of the stem, but much consideration is necessary 
with regard to the size and strength of the shoots, and, 
with dwarf roses, the strong and vigorous shoots should be 
annually shortened to vrithin six inches of their base, 
while the slender and weak shoots may be reduced tu 
thi'ee or four inches : yoiing suckers that are not required 
for layering, should be pruned dovrn to within six inches 
of the soil, and when these have attained to a good flower- 
ing state, the older parts of the bush may be cut out, as 
they will not flower so well after they have reached a 
certain age. By this means, also, there will be no neces- 
sity for removing them on account of their exhausting 
the soil, as the young suckers will be far enough from the 
old plant to prevent any injury from such a cause. 
"Where the suckers become too numerous, they should be 
eradicated, as some kinds of roses will spread themselves 
over a large extent of ground, and not only become un- 
sightly, but injure other plants. 

Standard roses require to be still more closely pruned 
than the preceding, as it is desirable that they should form 
a uniform and compact head, so as to present a favourable 
appearance when viewed from any or all side?. The 
young shoots should be annually shortened to within two 
or three inches of the point they started from, and when 
the heads are found to become too large or stragghng, some 
of the old wood should be cut out, and its place supplied 
with the young shoots which are continually springing 
from the centre of the head. By attention to these direc- 
tions for priming, standard roses may be made to form 
some of the most attractive features in the garden : indeed, 
there are few objects which possess a greater claim to merit 
than a standard rose which has been judiciously pruned, 
and which, when in flower, has the appearance of a dense 
cluster of blossoms : besides which, they occupy so little 



118 



PRACTICE OF GARDEXIXG. 



room, that no gai'den should be destitute of them, at lea^t 
where ornament is studied and desired. It is almost un- 
necessary to state, that they require supporting to stakes 
to preserve them from being beaten down by wind and 
rain, and that if any shoots are produced from the stem, or 
suckers from the roots, these should be timely destroyed. 
It must not be forgotten that these remarks^ with regard 
to priming both standard and dwarf roses, apply solely to 
the cabbage, and other sorts, before named. When climb- 
ing and China roses are budded on standards, they will of 
course require more liberal treatment as to pruning. 

The Chma roses {R. indica et semperilorens') are so totally 
different in habit from those last treated of, that they 
reqmre a brief notice. The sole difference, however, is 
with regard to pruning and propagation; the former of 
which they will not submit to. at least to any extent, and 
the latter may be performed from cuttings, which strike 
most readily if planted under a hand-glass. The cuttings 
may be taken off at almost any season, but the best time is 
early in the spring, before the shoots have commenced grow- 
ing. This season is the most suitable, for two important 
reasons,— first, because, as these sorts of roses produce soft 
and pithy shoots, and as such shoots will seldom succeed 
well if treated as cuttings, they will always be of a firmer 
and more woody nature afrer having endured the severity 
of the winter ; and secondly, because, by being taken ofl'"in 
the spring, they will acquire sufficient strength during the 
summer to enable them to stand out in the ensuing winter 
without any protection. In selecting shoots for this pur- 
pose, the smallest and most woody ones should be chosen, 
provided they are of the previous year's growth, and they 
should be taken ofi" as near the extremities as possible ; if 
they can conveniently be slipped off, they will succeed much 
better. They should be planted in a warm border with a 
light soil, and covered with a hand-glass, which must be 
shaded during the heat of the day ; water should be given 
them occasionally, but cautiously, as they will be much 
injured by any redundance of it. In this situation they 
will soon form roots, and when the weather is favourable, 
they may be removed to the open border, where, if they 
are watered in dry weather, they will require no farther 



ON REARING PLOWERS. 



119 



attentiou, and will probably produce fiowers in tlie autumn. 
With regard to pruning, it may be observed that the shoots 
of China roses should never be shortened, except where 
they are too strong and vigorous ; for, like the shoots of 
most other shrubs which are of a soft pithy nature, those 
which are pruned generally die, at least at their extremi- 
ties. But, afcer the shoots have flowered two or three 
years, they must be cut out, to make way for the young 
ones which are annually produced, as the young shoots 
always flower most abundantly. 

Scotch roses {R. spinosissima) differ from both the 
descriptions of roses before named, and also require a 
peculiar mode of treatment. They thrive best in a moist 
loamy soil ; but it is an error to say that they delight in a 
shady situation, for they will not produce their flowers in 
perfection unless they are well exposed to light and air. 
Xothing, likewise, can be more erroneous than to state 
that they require extensive pruning, for, on the contrary, 
they should never be pruned, except the rank and luxu- 
riant suckers, which may be annually slightly headed 
down, and all the other pruning that is requisite is to cut 
out the old and decayed wood. As they produce their 
flowers in almost unbounded profusion, they deserve to 
be more extensively cultivated in small gardens. They 
may be multiplied by suckers or layers. 

The sweet briar, one of the most delicious of garden 
plants, will either do with or without pruning. But it is 
apt to become too rambling if some of the stronger shoots 
be not shortened. It makes a pretty but not a very per- 
fect hedge. 

Having thus briefly sketched out a few plain directions 
for cultivating one of the most beautiful and ornamental, 
as well as favourite, tribes of plants that can be admitted 
into small gardens, or indeed into any garden, it only 
remains to state that roses should be pruned about the 
month of March, and that all of them ^ill thrive best in 
a cool moist soil, and will derive much benefit from 
an annual manuring of well-rotted dung. There are a 
variety of insects which infest roses, but, with the ex- 
ception of the green-fly, which may be destroyed by fumi- 
gating the plant with tobacco smoke, the best method of 



120 



PEACTICE OF GAEDENIXG. 



getting rid of them is to pick off tlie leaves or fiowers 
affected, and burn them. 

There are few other deciduous flowering shrubs for 
which any peculiarity of treatment is necessary, bur. as it 
has been remarked that many of them require pruning, ii 
may be well to state the principal of tliose which will bear 
to be subjected to this operation. Lilacs, currants, and 
laburnums should never have their shoors shortened, but 
they may occasionally be thinned out vriih propriety, and 
all root-suckers should be annually removed, whether they 
are or are not recraired for propagation, as they are very 
injurious to the parent plant, and are likewise very tm- 
sightly. Guelder roses, syringas, Japan quince trees, and 
spiraeas, will endure almost any degree of pruning, though 
the latter do not bear so much as the three former. The 
Japan kerria ^usually called corchortisi must be treated 
precisely in the same manner as China roses in this respect ; 
and the various species of cytisus, broom, and berberry, 
require no pruning, though the latter may be subjected to 
it if required. Tlie tamarisk and bladder-senna must have 
their young shoots yearly shortened to eight or ten inches, 
other^vise they will grow too straggling. All the above 
may be propagated by layers or suckers, though the com- 
mon broom can only be increased by seeds ; many others 
likewise produce seeds, but these are gene]'ally a long time 
before they vegetate, and rccpaire much attention. 

It has before been remarked, that most shrubs of this 
description will thrive in any common soil ; but to this 
rule the numerous splendid species and varieties of azalea 
are exceptions, as they require a similar soil to rhodo- 
dendrons, that is, a peaty soil : while the pretty mezereon, 
which is such a universal favourite, thrives best in a rather 
light and dry soil. 

The shortlist of loic dc':cduoi'.st/-t£8 which has now been 
ai^pended includes some of the most beautiful of garden 
ornaments, and even the smallest place might always con- 
tain at least two or three of them. The hawthorn tribe, of 
which there are numerous ether species and varieties, is 
especially pleasing. It will bear considerable pruniDg : 
but the plants look best when not subjected to any such 
treatment. Xone of these trees are particular as to soil. 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 121 

They all, however; succeed best in a sunny and airy 
situation. 

If still larger trees are desired in a garden, the lime is 
perhaps the most ornamental and suitable where only two 
or three large trees are wanted. Elms are fine old English 
plants, but spread their roots widely, and rob the soil very 
much. The ash has a similar fault, and comes into foliage 
very late in the spring. The acacia is extremely elegant, 
though liable to be broken by winds. Horse chestnuts 
are handsome. Their fruit and leaves have, however, a 
littery appearance. Lombardy poplars are execrable 
when standing alone or in rows; and common poplars and 
common willows are both coarse and poor in appearance. 
The beech is a noble tree, requiring plenty of room. 
Birch, especially the weeping kind, is both beautiful and 
suited for small gardens. The mountain ash and the ser- 
vice are both excellent. And the sycamore is admirable 
in the neighbourhood of the sea. Rare or peculiar trees, 
such as the purple beech, the variegated sycamore, the 
tulip tree, &c., are not in character with a very small place. 

Drooping or weeping trees, being adapted for standing 
alone, and in the centre of a garden, recommend them- 
selves for those of limited extent. The weeping ash, and 
elm, and lime, and the small-twigged weeping elm, and 
the weeping laburnum, and standards of cytisus, thorn- 
less acacia, Portugal laurel, rhododendron, cotoneaster, 
roses, weeping cherry, &c., form capital plants for the 
centre plot of a garden, and can be bought ready grafted 
at any good nursery. 

Hedges for gardens may be composed of the common 
hawthorn, or privet, or holly, or box. The holly is best 
as an evergreen, but it is of slow growth. An excellent 
hedge may be formed of hawthorn and the more evergreen 
variety of privet, mixed in nearly equal proportions. 
These are fast growing, and the thorn will give strength, 
while the privet will impart some degree of greenness in 
winter. A single row of plants, placed about nine inches 
apart, will be sufficient. They should, after the first year, 
be kept neatly and vigorously clipped, keeping their sides 
in the shape of those of a slender cone. If left broad at 
the top, as is more customary, they will grow weak and 



122 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



thin at the bottom. They should be clii3ped twice in 
the year, — in the middle of summer, just after they have 
perfected their growth, and in early winter. 

Climhing flovjering shrubs are an exceedingly interesting 
class of plants, though not numerous, and can only be cul- 
tivated where walls, fences, or other structures for training 
them to, are posocssed. Still there is a method of training 
and supporting climbing plants which is within the reach 
of the poorest individual, and which produces a very orna- 
mental and pleasing effect in a garden, and that is, to poles, 
of various heights and sizes, according to the strength of 
the plant which is trained to them. Indeed, this method is 
perfectly congenial to the natural habits of most climbing 
plants, as they generally twine themselves round the stems 
and branches of trees for support. Besides which, every 
individual possesses a dwelling-house of some description, 
to the walls of which some few climbing plants may be 
trained ; and the numerous charms which a cottage is said 
to possess are at least greatly heightened, if not solely 
produced, by the elegant honeysuckle or the glowing rose, 
which hang in gay festoons of living beauty from its other- 
wise unsightly walls. A short list of the most beautiful 
climbing plants may therefore not be unacceptable here : 

SELECT LIST OF CLIMBING FLOWERING SHRUBS. 

Revolute-floTrered Jasmine (Jasminum revolutum). Flowers in March. 
Yellow. 

Japan Quince {Cydonia Japonica). Fl. in March. Scarlet. 
White Japan Quince (C. Japonica alba). Fl. in March. White. 
Japan Kerria (Kerria Japonica). Fl. in March. Yellow. 
Florid Virgin's Bower {Clematis fiorida). Fl. in April. White and 
Yellow. 

Glaucous Virgin's Bower (C ^rZawcffJ. Fl. in April. Yellow. 
Blue Red- wood {Ceanotlius azureus). Fl. in May. Blue. 
^Yev^rQenThovvL [Gratcegus pyracantha). Fl. in May. White. 
Italian Honeysuckle ((7«jjnyo?iMm Jto?icu??z). Fl. in May. Yellow. 
Red Italian Honeysuckle {G. Italicum rubrum), Fl. in May. Red. 
Etruscan Honeysuckle ((7. ^ir?^scM»i). Fl. in May. Orange. 
Consequa's Wistaria {Wistaria Gonsequayia). Fl. in May. Blue. 
Banksian Rose {Rosa Banksice). Fl. in June. White. 
Many-flowered Rose {R. multiflora). Fl. in June. Pink. 
Woodbine and varieties {Gaprifolium periclymenum, et var.). Fl. in 

June. Yellow and Red. 
Traveller's Joy {Glematis viorna). Fl. in June. Purple. 
Blue Passion Flower {Passiflora ccerulea). Fl. in June, Blue and 

White. 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 



123 



Jvy-M^e Ami^elo'psis (Ampelopsis Jiederacea) . Fl. in June. Green, 
liussell's Rose {Bosa Busseliana). Fl. in July. Red. 
Ruga Rose {Hosa Ruga). Fl. in July. Blush-coloured. 
Vine-bower {Clematis viticella). Fl. in July. Purple. 
Double Yine-bower (C viticella, plena). Fl. in July. Purple. 
Officinal Jasmine and varieties [Jasminum officinale, et var.). Fl. ia 
July. White. 

Rooting Tecoma and varieties {Tecoma radicans, et var.). Fl. in 

July. Orange and Scarlet. 
Evergreen Honeysuckle {Caprifolium sevipervirens). Fl. in July. 

Scarlet. 

Flame Virgin's Bower and varieties {Clematis flammula, et var.). 

Fl. in August. White. 
Common Ivy and varieties {Jledera helix). Fl. in October. Green. 
Fragrant Chimonantbus and varieties {Cfiimonanthus fragraiis, tt 

var.). Fl. in December and February. Yellowish red. 

There is something so peculiarly graceful and attractive 
in the appearance and habits of climbing plants, that, with 
every lover of nature, they are acknowledged favourites ; 
therefore a few general remarks on their culture w^ll 
doubtless prove useful. Few persons seem to know and 
understand the proper management of these plants ; and, 
for this reason, they are usually seen either in a wild or 
slovenly state, or, what is almost as bad, are pruned too 
closely and trained too formally in the summer, and con- 
sequently produce few flowers. These remarks apply more 
pai'ticularly to the species of jasmine and virgin's-bower, 
which are all very beautiful and ornamental, but which 
are seldom seen neatly trained, and at the same time 
flowering in anything like perfection ; as these two de- 
sirable features very rarely accompany each other. To 
render this part of the subject more intelligible, it will 
be better to treat separately of such plants as are best 
adapted for training against a wall, and afterwards of 
those which show themselves to the greatest advantage 
when fastened to poles, or the stems of trees. 

In training plants against a wall, it is necessary to con- 
sider whether they are merely intended for hiding the wall, 
or whether the beauty of their flowers is thus to be brought 
advantageously into view, and the wall rendered an object 
of ornament, instead of a dull and heavy feature in the 
scene. Where climbing plants are desired for the purpose 
of concealing an old and unsightly wall, no plant is so well 
adapted for this purpose as the common ivy, which, 



124 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



by its constant verdure, will effectually answer the re- 
quired design. But where the object is to exhibit the beau- 
ties of the plants thus trained, ivy should by no means 
be allowed a place, as it will extend itself too rapidly, 
and speedily occupy the whole of the wall. The more 
ornamental kinds must therefore be employed, and the 
following selection will be found to contain plants of the 
most varied colours, and all of them highly beautiful : — 
The Japan kerria, Japan quince, Etruscan honeysuckle, 
Banksian rose, China rose, officinal jasmine, and double 
vine-bower. These seven plants would form a most 
striking and pleasing variety, and may be very readily 
procured. The Wistaria consequana is unquestionably 
one of the most lovely plants that can possibly be obtained 
for training against a wall, but unfortunately the flowers 
begin to expand so early in the season, that it is extremely 
liable to injury from spring frosts, unless slightly pro- 
tected. This is likewise the case with the blue red-wood, 
(Ceanoihus azureus,) which is also a most beautiful and 
ornamental object when in flower. If, however, they can 
be placed against a south wall which is not much exposed 
to wind, they will stand through the winter perfectly 
well, and both of them, the former especially, should be in 
the possession of every individual who can procure them. 
The evergreen thorn, or pyracanth, is grown chiefly for 
the beauty of the numerous clusters of red berries which 
it produces in the winter season, and is a very interesting 
and ornamental plant, as its green leaves and pretty red 
berries, being produced at the most gloomy season of the 
year, render it a valuable and welcome embellishment to 
any house or wall. The Virginian creeper, {Ampelopsis 
Jiederacea) is also much admired for the rich red tints 
which its leaves assume in the autumnal months, but, 
besides being a very free-growing plant, it possesses no 
other beauty. The Tecoma o^adicans is well adapted for 
training up the front of a house, and its rich trumpet- 
like flowers, which are produced very abundantly, render 
it an extremely beautiful object when in flower. 

If a neat wooden trellis can be conveniently procured for 
placing against awall to which climbing plants are intended 
to be trained, it will save the wall from being injured by 



ON REARING FLOWERS, 



125 



nails, and also have a very ornamental appearance. Strong 
strained wires, fastened either horizontally or vertically, 
about one-eighth of an inch from a wall, will be neater in 
appearance, and more durable. But, as few individuals 
with small means could go to such an expense, some general 
directions will now be given for training plants of this de- 
scription against a wall. As has been before observed, 
cultivators greatly err in attempting to train their climbing 
plants in as formal a manner as if they were fruit trees ; 
for by this means they are deprived of the greater part of 
their flowers. With some kinds, however, this system is 
not only practicable, but it adds much to their beauty ; but 
this is only with such as produce few shoots, or are of very 
slow-growing habits. The wistaria, for instance, produces 
such straight shoots, that they may be trained in the most 
precise order, and indeed if they are not so trained, they 
will have a very unsightly appearancein the winter months. 
But, with the species of jasmine, and virgin's bower, which 
throw out such a vast number of lateral shoots, and in a 
very irregular manner, it is impossible to train them in any- 
thing like order, without depriving them of all the shoots 
which would produce flowers in the succeeding season. 

When climbing plants are first planted against a wall, and 
until they have occuj^ied the whole of the space they are in- 
tended to cover, it is important that they should be trained 
with all due regard to order; but, after they have filled the 
space allotted to them, they will produce such an abundance 
of lateral shoots as to render it impossible to train them in 
a regular manner. At the time of planting, it should be 
determined whether they are to be trained in a perpen- 
dicular, horizontal, or spreading position, and this deter- 
mination should afterwards be rigidly adhered to, other- 
wise nothing but confusion and disorder will ensue. Where 
the wall is high, the shoots should be trained perpendicu- 
larly, and also where it is low, with slow-growing sorts ; 
but with sorts of very rapid growth, such as the wistaria, 
it is necessary to train them in a horizontal direction. 

In pruning climbiDg plants, due consideration is neces- 
sary with regard to the size and strength of the shoots, and 
the number of them ; for, in plants with weak shoots, and 
such as have not a sufficient number of them to cover the 

M 2 



126 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



wall, a close pruning is necessary in order to render them 
stronger, and the shoots more abundant. This point 
should especially be attended to while they are young, 
otherwise their lower stems will remain bare and unsightly 
— a very prevalent defect in plants of this description. 
The Japan quince, and the climbing rose, will seldom 
require their shoots shortening in this manner, and the 
Japan kerria, and the China roses especially, will not bear 
much pruning. The species of clematis and jasmine may 
be freely pruned in the winter, but they should never be 
deprived of their lateral shoots in the summer, as it is from 
the extremities of these that the flowers are generally pro- 
duced; therefore, instead of cutting them off, the principal 
ones may be fastened to the wall, and the shorter ones allow- 
ed to protrude themselves from the wall; by which means 
their flowers will be exhibited to the greatest advantage. 

When the plants have attained the required size, it is 
a good plan to prune the young laterals down to short 
spurs in the winter, and these spurs will produce more 
lateral shoots in the ensuing season, from the points of all 
which there will be a cluster of flowers. The system of 
spurring the young shoots in the winter, and of allowing 
them to take their own course in the summer, imless they 
become too straggling, is the chief point to be attended 
to in the cultivation of these plants, and if this is duly 
regarded, an abundant display of flowers will be ensured. 
Soil and aspect are of comparatively little importance, as a 
good rich loamy soil will be found suitable for all climbing 
plants, but it is important that they should have a border 
of such soil, full three feet wide, or, if practicable, four or 
five feet, — and that the soil should be well dug and pre- 
pared previous to placing the plants in it. A wall with a 
south or south-western aspect is certainly preferable for 
ornamental climbing plants, but this is by no means 
indispensable, as they will flourish in almost any situation, 
provided it is not too much exposed to cold winds; though 
they will certainly produce their flowers in greater perfec- 
tion when they are well exposed to the sun, as they would 
be in the position first alluded to. 

That climbing plants contribute much to enliven and 
embellish the walls of a cottage, every individual who has 



ox REARING FLOWERS. 



127 



visited a country Tillage must be prepared to admit : but 
the practice of training these plants to poles is so seldom 
adopted in small gardens, that few individuals are ac- 
quainted with the striking beauty of such objects when in 
flower, otherwise the system would be more generally 
practised. In cottage gardens, it would be dilficult to 
imagine a more interesting feature, than two poles of 
climbing roses, placed one on each side of the entrance, in 
the small plot of ground which usually fronts the cottage; 
and as they require very little attention, and the poles 
may be procured of any farmer for a trifling sum, it is 
really surprising that they are so universally neglected. 

Besides training climbing plants to poles^ it is an 
excellent plan, where shrubberies are possessed, to plant 
them at the base of the larger shrubs, and twine their 
shoots round the stems of the shrubs. This system is 
admirably adapted for honeysuckles and the species of 
virgin's bower, as well as for some kinds of roses ; and 
as they will not be injured by the shade of the shrubs, 
they will impart a degree of beauty and elegance to 
the shrubbery, which must be seen in order to be 
fully appreciated. Climbing plants, trained to poles, 
(especially roses,) should never be pruned in the summer, 
as they produce their flowers from the extreme j^oints of 
the shoots ; but, in the winter, they require a slight 
pruning to keep them within due bounds. The Wistaria 
consequana is an extremely beautiful object when trained to 
a pole : but when treated in this manner, it should be most 
vigorously pruned, othei^ise it will grow too straggling, 
and will not flower freely : by shortening its lateral shoots 
every season to three or four inches, it will produce a great 
abundance of flowers when trained in this manner. 

In concluding these remarks on training climbing plants 
to poles, it is necessary to state that the height of the poles, 
and consequently of the plants trained to them, should be 
regulated entirely by the height of the cottage or dwelling 
to which they may be contiguous, as it must be clear to 
every one, that, if they are higher than the cottage, tbey 
will have a very unsightly and irregular appearance. 
Climbing roses seem to flourish best when planted in a 
stifif clayey soil, but all other climbing plants prefer a soil 



128 



PRACTICE OP GARDENING. 



of a lighter description, and, unless they grow too vigorously 
and luxuriantly, should have an occasional manuring. 

2. — Hardy Perennial Flowering Plants. 

Those plants are termed perennials, v/hich produce 
flowers for an indefinite period of time, without being 
renewed by seed or otherwise. Thus, in this sense, shrubs 
and trees are perennials, though they are not usually called 
by that name, as their woody habits have obtained for 
them the distinct appellations of shrubs or trees. But 
perennials, in the common sense of the term, are such 
plants as not only produce flowers and leaves for an 
indefinite number of years, but the leaves and flowers and 
stems of which annually decay, to be reproduced in the 
succeeding season. This is undoubtedly the most exten- 
sive class of plants in the whole vegetable kingdom, and 
the objects comprised in it are no less beautiful than they 
are numerous, and abound in all parts of the world. Not 
a fev/ of the most interesting species are found wild in 
the woods and meadows of this country, but because they 
are common, such is the prevailing desire for rarities, 
that they are generally denied a place in British gardens, 
Avhile only the scarce and uncommon ones, and such as 
are supplied from foreign parts, are cultivated. 

In the following selection^ care has been taken to point 
out such and such only as possess the greatest claims to 
beauty, and at the same time are within the reach of all 
classes, omitting all those which are less worthy of atten- 
tion, as well as all such as are usually termed florists' 
flowers," in which are included the principal sorts of bulbs 
and tubers, and which will be made the subjects of future 
notice. 

SELECT LIST OF HARDY PERENNIAL FLOWERING 
PLANTS. 
From three inches to a foot high. 
Common Winter Aconite {Eranthis hyemalis). Flowers in Jan. 
Yellow. 

Cos Cyclamen [Cyclamen coian). Fl, in Jannary. Red. 

Common tliree-lobed Hepatica and varieties {Hepatica triloha, et 

var.). Fl. in February. Various colours. 
Whitish Wall Cress (Arabis alhida). Fl. in February. White. 
Aizoon-like Draba {Draba aizoides). Fl. in February. Yellow. 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 



129 



Spring Cyclamen {Cyclamen vernum). Fl. in March. Purple. 
Spring Yenus's Navel Wort {Omphalodes verna). Fl.in Mar. Blue. 
'Yern^iX Ad^oras, [Adonis vernalis). Fl.in March. Yellow. 
Showy (Enothera {CEnothera speciosa), Fl. in March. White. 
Sweet-scented Violet and varieties {Viola odorata, et var,]. Fl. in 

March. Various Colours. 
Alpine Wall Cress {Arahis Alpina). Fl. in March. White. 
Spring Bitter Vetch {Orohus vermis). Fl. in March. Purple. 
Perennial Daisy and varieties {Bellis perennis, et var.). Fl. in 

March. Various colours. 
Snowy Primrose {Primida nivea). Fl. in April. White. 
American Cowslip (Doii^cai^eow Tweiiia). Fl.in April. Pink. 
Narrow-leaved Lungwort {Pulmonaria artgustifolia), Fl. in April. 

Blue. 

Shady London Pride {Saxifraga unibrosa). Fl. in April. Pink. 
Double grain-rooted Saxifrage {S. granulata plena). Fl. in August. 
White. 

Pale Yellow Wallflower [Cheiranthus ocTiroleucus). Fl. in April. 
Yellow. 

Deltoid Aubrietia {Aubrietia deltoidea). Fl. in April. Purple. 
Rock Candy-tuft {Iheris saxatilis). Fl.in April. White. 
Officinal Lungwort {Pulmonaria officinalis). Fl. in May. Pink. 
American Globe Flower (T^roZZm* ^mericanws). Fl.in May. Yellow. 
Saffron-coloured Cinquefoil {Potentilla crocea), Fl. in May. Copper- 
coloured. 

Dwarf CEnothera ((E'/^o<^e?•a_p^m^7a). Fl. in May. Yellow. 

Alpine Speedwell (Feron?ca ^kZpma). Fl. in May. Blue. 

Sweet-scented Woodroof {Asperula odorata). Fl. in May. White. 

Sea-side Thrift {Armaria maritima). Fl. in May. Pink. 

May Lily of the Valley {Gonvallaria majalis). Fl. in May. White. 

Rock Madwort {Alyssum saxatile). Fl. in May. Yellow. 

Pleasing Phlox «wcena). Fl. in June. Pink. 

Hybrid Avens {Geum hyhridum). Fl.in June. Reddish brown. 

G:y^&o-^h\\2i. {Silene GypsopMla). Fl. in June. White. 

Reflex- leaved Stonecrop (S'eciMTn re;fea;Mm). Fl. iuJune. Yellow. 

Handsome Dielytra {Dielytra formosa). Fl. in June. Flesh-coloured. 

Hairy Bitter Vetch (Oro&'^5 A/rs?iiz«5). Fl. in June. Red. 

Pennsylvanian Catchfly {Silene Pennsylvanica). Fl, in June. Red. 

Silver-leaved Starwort {Aster argenteus). Fl. in June. Purple. 

Dwarf Starwort (^. /iM??2iZzs). Fl. in. August. White. 

Double Ragged Robin {Lychnis flos-cuculi, flore-pleno). Fl. in June 

and July. Pink. 
Stemlfss Gentian {Gentiana acaulis). Fl. March to May. Blue. 
Double white, red, and French white Primroses {Primula vera, 

vars.). Fl. in April and May. 

From one to two feet high, ayid upwards. 

Winged Ammobium (vlwimo&mTO a7«^wm). Fl. in March. White. 
LargH-flowered Celandine ((7Ae^zcZ«99imm grandifiorum). Fl.in April. 
Yellow. 

Garden Wallflower and varieties {Cheiranthus cheiri). Fl. in April. 
Various colours. 




130 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



Ye\lo\7 Covydalis {Gorydalis lutea). FJ. in April. Yellow, 
Monk's Hood {Aconitum napellus). Fl. in May. Blue. 
Officinal Peony and varieties {Posonia officinalis^ et va7\). Fl.in May. 
Various colours. 

Dark Bloody Cinquefoil {Potentilla atrosanguineo). Fl. in May. 
Dark brown. 

Snakeweed {Polygonum Hstortum). Fl. in May. Pink. 

Y ellovr A.s,^h.odi&\ {Asphodelusluteus). Fl.in May. Yellow. 

Red Valerian {Valeriana rubra?). Fl. in May. Red. 

Common Columbine and varieties {Aquilegia vulgaris, et var?). Fl, 

in May. Various colours. 
Revived Honesty {Lunaria rediviva). Fl. in May. Purple. 
Matronly Rocket and varieties {Hesperis matronalis, et var.). Fl. in 

May. Various colours. 
Perennial Lupin {Lupinus perennis). Fl. in May. Blue. 
Large-flowered Larkspur {Delphinium grandiflorum). Fl. in June. 

Blue. 

Crown Lychnis and varieties {Lychnis coronaria, et var.). Fl. in 

June. Various colours. 
Sweet William {Dianthus harhatus). Fi. in June. Pink. 
Shrubby (Enothera {CEnothera Jruticosa). Fl. in June. Reddish 

white. 

"Pymmidal "Phlox {Phlox pyramidalis). Fl. in June. Pink. 
'Envo-pean Glohe-^ower {Trollius Europoeus). Fl.in June. Yellow. 
Hairy Archangel {Lamium hirsutum). Fl. in June. Purple. 
'K2iay-\.e2,Y%dili\x^'va. {Lupinus polyphyllus). Fl. in June. Blue. 
Double-flowered Peliitory {Pyrethrum jparthenium, plena). Fl. in 

June. White. 
Shining Lychnis (Lz/cAm5 /M?^e?is). Fl. in July. Scarlet. 
Throatwort and varieties {Campanula Trachelium et var.). Fl. in 

J uly. Various colours. 
Virginian Dragon's Head {Dracocephalum Virginianum). Fl. in 

July. Red. 

Early Starwort {Aster prcecox). Fl. in July. Violet-coloured. 
Roseate Milfoil {Achillea rosea). FL in July. Red. 
Hairy Rudbeckia {Rudheclda hirta). Fl, in July. YelloAV. 
Dropwort and varieties {Spircea Jilipendula, et var.). Fl. in July. 
White. 

VfV(nc\e,diV\i\ox {Phlox paniculata). Fl. in August. Lilac. 
Virginian Spiderwort and varieties {Tradescantia Virginica, et var.). 

Fl. in August. Various colours. 
Wood Everlasting Pea {Lathyrus sylve&tris), Fl. in August. Purple. 
Smooth Pentstemon {Pentstemon Icevigatus). Fl. in August. Pink. 
Soft Bear's Breech {Acanthus mollis). Fl. in August. White. 
Varieties of Elegant Groundsel {Senecio elegans, var.). Fi. in Ang. 

Various colours. 

Many-leaved ^iaxwoTt {Aster polyphyllus). Fl.in August. White. 
Common Golden Rod {Solidago Virgaurea). Fl, in August, Yellow. 
Woolly Milfoil {Achillea tomentosa). Fl. in August. Yellow, 
Slender-leaved Coreopsis {Coreopsis tenuifolia). Fl. in Aug. Yellow. 
Round-headed Globe Thistle {Echinops sphcerocephalus). Fl. in 

August. Blue, 
Spiked Liiitris {Liatris spicata). Fl. in September. Purple. 



ON EEARIXG FLOWERS. 



131 



Late-flowering Starwort {Aster serotinus). FI. in September. Blue. 
Many-flowered Sunflower and varieties {HeliantJius multiflorus, et 

var.) Fl. in September. Yellow. 
Chinese Chrysanthemum and varieties {Chrysartthemum sinense, et 

var.) Fl. in October. Various colours. 

It is presumed that the preceding list, though brief, 
will be found to contain as many plants as can be conve- 
niently admitted into any garden of limited extent, and 
on this account it will be seen that many beautiful plants 
of this description which are diflBcult to procure, and 
others which are almost worthless, have been entirely 
omitted. We shall, therefore, now offer a few observa- 
tions on their general culture. 

The plants of this division are appropriately called by 
gardeners " herbaceous plants,'* to distinguish them from 
other perennials of shrubby habits ; and as they so closely 
resemble each other in their mode of growth, it will not 
be necessary to treat particularly of each individual plant 
or tribe, but merely to lay down a few general rules for 
cultivation, which will apply to the whole. 

Perennials of this description may be multiplied in 
various ways ; those which produce seed, such as wall- 
flowers, primroses, columbines, pentstemon, &c., are very 
easily propagated, as they require no attention further than 
that of sowing the seed, and transplanting them when they 
have attained a sufficient size. Seeds of any of the kinds 
which produce them may be sown early in the spring, in 
beds or drills, in a light loamy soil, covering them with 
more or less earth according to their size : small seeds 
require a very shallow covering, and larger ones to be 
buried from half-an-inch to an inch in the soil. As soon 
as they have formed three or four leaves, they should be 
thinned to a sufficient distance from each other, and the 
thinnings, if taken up with care, may be transplanted else- 
where if desh^ed. They should not be allowed to flower 
the first season, and in the succeeding spring they may 
be transplanted to the flower-borders, removing them 
with as much earth as possible attached to the roots. 

As the double-flowered sorts rarely produce seed, these 
must be multiphed by dividing the roots ; and many others 
which do ripen their seed, may be propagated with much 



132 



PRACTICE OF GAEDENING. 



greater facility iu tliis manner. The starworts, golden- 
rod, perennial lupins, and Yarioiis others, will bear to be 
submitted to this operation ; and, independently of this 
being a ready and certain method of propagation, it is 
absolutely necessary, to prevent the plants from spreading 
too rapidly, and occupying too large a space of ground. 
T\'here practicable, this is decidedly the best method of 
increasing plants of this description, as it occasions no 
extra trouble, and the plants, thus separated, produce 
their flowers the first season, which is seldom the case 
^^i.th seedlings. Where hand-glasses are possessed, and a 
little artificial heat is at command, many of these plants 
may be readily increased by cuttings, such as Chinese 
chrysanthemums and double rockets ; and by this me- 
thod, the flowers will be rendered finer, or at least will 
be preserved from degenerating, which they frequently 
do when propagated by division of the roots. Chinese 
chrysanthemums may likewise be multiplied by layers, 
and sweet violets must be increased from offsets. 

In practising any of these methods, all the attention 
that is necessary is to allow the plants a sufficient quan- 
tity of water after transplanting, till they become pro- 
perly established in the soil: and, in the case of cuttings, 
they must be duly shaded from the heat of the sun. 

AVith regard to soil and situation, it may be observed 
that most perennials thrive best in a light and rather rich 
loamy soil ; but it shotild not be too rich, otherwise they 
will grow too strong, and produce but few flowers; neither 
should it by any means be too poor or gravelly, or no 
part of the plant will grow to perfection. Perennials 
v\ull grow well under the shade of shrubs or trees, but will 
certainly flower much finer and better if planted in an open 
exposed situation, and in such a one they should always be 
placed, if practicable; though this is not essential to their 
existence, but only to their flowering in a superior manner. 

In transplanting perennials, which maybe done at almost 
any season, care should be taken to retain as much earth 
as possible about the roots, and when it is found necessary 
to remove them in the summer season, this should al\^'ays 
be done in the evening of the day, and, if possible, in 
cloudy or showery weather : where this latter does not 



ON EEARIXG FLOWERS. 



13a 



occur, they should be liberally supplied with water each 
day, for some time after planting. Some writers recom- 
mend planting them in the autumnal months, but as by 
this practice they will be liable to be thrown out of the 
soil by severe frost, the spring is by far the best time for 
performing this operation. In planting those that shed 
their leaves, such as starworts, and others of similar 
habits, the crowns of the roots should be very slightly 
covered with soil, and never be buried more than half an 
inch beneath the surface of the ground ; while those 
which retain then- leaves should never have any part of 
their leaves buried in the soil. 

Those which grow to a considerable height, such as Chi- 
nese chrysanthemums, and such as have weak and slender 
items, should be timely supported by stakes, placed in the 
ground as near as possible to the stems, and the plants 
secured to them with garden matting. This should always 
be attended to as soon as the plants have attained the 
height of six or eight inches, as, if it is too long deferred, 
they will be liable to injury from strong winds or heavy 
rains ; and also, because, if it is not performed in the early 
stages of their growth, it can never be done neatly after- 
wards, and the plants ^vill remain unsightly throtighout the 
whole season. Few persons, except professional gardeners, 
attach sufficient importance to this operation, and the con- 
sequence is, that plants of this description are deprived of 
the principal part of their beauty, and the gardens in which 
they are grown always present a slovenly and untidy ap- 
pearance, however free they maybe from weeds or rubbish, 
or however properly they maybe attended to in other re- 
spects. A plant, for instance a Chinese chrysanthemum, 
is planted in the flower-border in the spring, and towards 
autumn its numerous stems will grow to the height of three 
cr four feet, and because the person who cultivates it will 
not take the trouble to place a stake in the centre of the 
young shoots, and secm^e thein to it with matting, they are 
blown down by the wind in all directions, and, besides 
having a most slovenly appearance, they greatly injure the 
plants that happen to be beneath them, and their flowers 
are completely spoiled with the dirt that is washed into them 
from the ground by rain. Stich cases are by no means of 



134 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



uuconimou occurrence, not only with the plants mentioned, 
but with many others which produce only one stem ; and 
in other instances, the appearance of the plants is rendered 
equally unsightly by the rough and clumsy stakes that are 
placed for their support, and the careless manner in which 
they are tied to them. I^ow, if the prunings from apple, 
raspberry, and other trees and shrubs, w^ere saved for 
this purpose, and the plants neatly and timely fastened to 
them, the flower-bed or border would present a very dif- 
ferent appearance to what it now too frequently does, and 
a degree of interest would be added to it, of which few 
individuals of the class to whom these remarks are ad- 
dressed, have any adequate conception. 

Each stake should be as straight as possible, and only 
suf&ciently strong to support the plant to which it is in- 
tended to be placed, as nothing is more unsightly than a 
large stake placed to a small plant : neither should it ever 
be longer than so as to reach to within a few inches of the 
top of the plant, for the greatest art in staking plants of 
any description is, to keep the materials which support 
them out of sight, and to make them appear as natural as 
possible. To effect this, where the plant has many stems, 
the stake should be inserted in the middle of them ; and, 
where it is only furnished with one stem, the stake should 
be placed at the back of it, so as not to be so readily per- 
ceived from the walk. It is no less important, however, 
that the plant should be neatly and properly tied to the 
stake; and where the stems are not numerous, they should 
be fastened separately to the stake, and not bundled to- 
gether, as is usually done. Besides which, the leaves 
should all remain perfectly free, and be kept as much as 
possible in their natural position ; and last, though not 
least, the matting used should be wetted previous to using, 
and only narrow strips of it employed, which should be 
neatly twisted, so as to appear as small as possible. These 
remarks on this subject have been thought necessary, as 
they will apply equally well to all descriptions of plants 
which require staking ; and also, to urge the adoption of 
a practice which contributes so largely to exhibit the 
beauties of flowers to the greatest advantage. 

As soon as the flowers of any species begin to wither, if, 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 



135 



like the starworts, the flower-stems are only of annual 
duration^ they should be immediately cut do'wn to within 
an inch or more of the ground ; as decayed or decaying 
flowering-stems have a very unsightly appearance. But 
if, as is the case with wallflowers and some others, the 
stems remain for more than one year, the flowers should 
be plucked off as they fade (imless seed is required"^, 
which will induce them to flower again in the same season. 
These directions are particularly apphcable to wallflowers, 
which may, by this practice, be continued in flower for a 
gi'eat length of time. 

Early in the spring each plant should be divided, if 
necessaiy : as plants of this description are apt to become 
too straggling; and the bed or border should be dug over, 
occasionally applying a little well-rotted manure, and 
shifting the plants eveiy three or four years. All tubers 
which have been enumerated in the list before given re- 
quire precisely the same treatment as the others, except 
that they will multiply themselves, some of them in a simi- 
lar manner to potatoes, and others, such as cyclamens, by 
a singular process, in which the seed naturally inclines to 
the earth, where in course of time, it forms itself into 
a new tuber, which may then be detached from the plant. 

It is worth considering that the outside portions of 
any patches of herbaceous plants are always the most 
healthy and vigorous, because youngest, the farthest from 
the old stems, and rooted in fresh soil. In dividing them, 
therefore, the old centre part of the plants should be 
rejected, and only the fresher portions be used. 

Some kinds of perennials are peculiarly suited for growing 
on rocks, or among stones, roots, kc. The various species 
of fern, heath and savin, (among shrubs.) stone-crops, 
London-pride, several kinds of alyssum and draba, ^-all- 
flowers, red valerian, violets, with some of the campanulas, 
and pinks, and saxifrages, are best fitted for this purpose. 
They should each be provided with a little soil to grow in, 
and the means of draining off their surplus vater, and be 
slightly shaded so as not to be burnt up in hot wea.ther, 
but not be so covered as to be prevented from imbibing 
moisture by raiu. A northern, or nearly Dorthern aspect, 
where they get little sud, or a position beneath the shade 



136 



PBACHCS OF GARDElSrorcL 



of laige iiees, mil not be xmsnitable for iM$ ::::r :: 
plants. The stone-ciop, the house-leek, rli odicl ? : : s f , 
the common heath, and othei^ will very - .r - 
patx^es on the roo^ of cottages or oiiTboiliiiirs. : : :z 
walls, where they can be accommodated with a little soiL 

:?. — Hardy Bulbs and Corms, 



Tn e se . : i : i : 1: t " : re trae perennials, are nereryieless 
so very d lzf : ii: : _ ictore and habit £rom those of the 




- f : er^een bo3bs 
^ - illy of a 

; niT^^saci of 

- .- ■ " ■ " --.-^^^ 



Ic^Tcs a.iiu. TOiin^g piuii.i,s, iiiiu. c like cOiIar gi liic i-i i ~. 



ON REARING FLOATERS. 



137 



A short list is here given of those that are most orna- 
mental, and are capable of enduring the open air. 

SELECT LIST OF HARDY BULBS AND COEMS. 

From six inches to a foot high. 

Spring Snow-flake (Leucojinn vcmum). Flowers in January. White. 
Common Snowdrop (GalardJius nivaUs). FL in January. "White. 
Sulphur-coloured Crocus (Crocus sidploireus). Fl. in Feb. Yellow. 
Common Yellow Crocus (C. Iv.tevs). Fl. in February. A'^ellow. 
Dog's-tooth Violet (ErytJrroniurd dvns cards) Fl. in March. Purple. 
Spring Crocus (Crocus ccrnus). Fl. in Maich. Purple. 
Early-flowering Squill (Scilla jjrcecox). Fl. in March. Blue. 
Two-leaved Squill, and varieties (S. Ufolia, et ■co/r.). Fl. in March. 
Various colours. 

Various species of Narcissus (Xarcissus Pseudo-narcissus. X. pusilla, 
N. jonquiila, X. patellaris, X. albus, et X. spurius). Fl. in April. 
Various coloars. 

Umbelled. Star of Bethlehem (Ornithogalura umbeUatum). Fl. in 
April. AVhite. 

Kacemose Grape Hyacinth (J/Mscaj-i raceinos^'ni). Fl. in April. Bine. 

Vernal Squill (Scilla verna). Fl. in April. Blue. 

Undescribed Squill, and varieties (Scilla r>oyL scripta. et v;:/-.). Fl. in 

April. Various colours. 
Wood Tulip (Tulipa syloestris). Fl. in May. Yellow. 
Nodding Star of Bethlehem [Ornithogo.lur.i nutans). Fl. in June. 

White. 

Common Com Flag (Gladiolus conuaurds). Fl. in June. Red. 
Alpine Meadow Saffron (Colchicuu> Alpinum). Fl. in July. Purple. 
Garden Crocus (Crocus sativus). Fl. in August. Violet-coloured. 
Yellow Sternbergia (Sternhergia lutea). Fl. in August. Yellow. 
Variegated Meadow Saffron (Coldiicura variegatum). Fl. in August. 
Purple, 

Autumnal :Meadow Saffron (C. autumnale). Fl. in Sept. Purple. 
Pallas's Crocus ( Crocus Pallasii). Fl. in Sept. Lilac. 
Late-flowering Crocus (C serotinus). Fl. in Oct. Violet-coloured. 

Frorn one to tv:o feet high, and upwards. 

Crown Imperial (Fritillaria imperialis). Fl. in March. Yellow. 
Guinea-fowl Fritillary (Fritillaria meleagris). Fl. in April. Purple. 
Summer Snow-flake (Leucojura cestivum). Fl. in May. White. 
Tiger Flower ( Tigridia pavonia). Fl. in J une. Red and Orange. 
White Lily (LiUuni candidurn). Fl. in June. White. 
Xiphium Iris (Iris xiphiuni). Fl. in June. Blue and Yellow. 
Tiger Lily (Lilium tigrinu rn . Fl. in J uly. Red. 

The cultivation of bulbs and corms is conducted in a 
very different manner from that of other perennials, 
inasmuch as the greater part of them require to be annually- 
removed from the ground, and kept in a dry and dormant 

N 2 



13S PRACTICE OF GAEDEXI^'G. 

State f T i\ 1 on^'c r '?v ^ a : rrer perio :1. Like herbaceous peren- 
nia:?. tiiev u?i::i._v ; r: va:;-ate themselves bv offsets, which 
mci- *^e paient to form a dis- 

tinct i-lan:. ::.;:::":lc of rrjducing leaves, flowers, and seed, 

v-h^n folly iraVore:!, 3iany of tl::^:- :-aylikewise be o.i-ol:l- 
plled by see f. :oo"ogbthis metbcol :s seldom had rec eurse 

t - g new varieties 

la - it above the 1 ^ot- 

nbres. whaieveo the^e yr ooo': ^roiices maybe called, a store 
of prepared p'olo' l.\o:l -oo -rl^ere each season, for the 
T . , - - ' -uc- 

ceedins: se:.^:o.L I: :s clear, :lieo. the: the nrco'e roibj there 



exo;^ 
visb 



.p that wo;; . " " eeii 
vill be re' _ the 

f " '"-^ : :ee aio^ vear, 



o:^ :o:o:, ::d thevhave 

ai::o ..lo^ lo..^r^ -oo^ - ::r::e they should 

auu 

season, ir tnis a- a : a:: : : a -ra a i " - 
In th- t ^1 

:.'e Kept m view ; viz, " a..: - : r.av 

. tneyhave once startc .ana t-t a_, an 

iiouncanceoi water: and to preserve tnem auringa certam 



ox REAPJXG FLOAYERS. 



139 



period in a perfectly doimant state, from the time their 
leaves begin to decay, by keeping them in a dry situation. 
The former of these, however, is generally amply per- 
formed by nature, while it is to the latter the cultivator 
must direct his attention. It is of great importance, in 
removing bulbs from the ground, to ascertain the precise 
time when they are capable of being taken up, as, if they 
are removed before they have ceased growing, or not till 
they have formed new roots, they will invariably be in- 
jured. It is also important that their leaves should never 
be cut off till they decay, otherwise the bulbs will never 
mature themselves properly. The best time for taking up 
bulbs or corms is immediately after their leaves have 
withered, and there are few of those enumerated in the 
preceding list which will require to be kept out of the 
ground more than a few weeks, and some of them not 
more than a few days. All young and weak bulbs should 
only be kept out of the ground a few days, and then planted 
again, as they cannot endure much drought ; but old and 
full-grown ones may be kept dry for several weeks, or 
even months, and will be much improved by it. They 
should be carefully wrapped in paper, and stored in dry 
drawers, or on shelves in an airy and cool room. Lilies, 
however, and even narcissuses, should only be taken up 
once in two years, for the purpose of removing their offsets, 
while crocuses, and other corms, may be taken up annu- 
ally, provided they are not kept out of the ground till 
thej^ commence growing. The autumnal flowering corms 
may be taken up as soon as the leaves decay, and will not 
be injured if they are kept out of the ground till the en- 
suing June or July. Tulips and Hyacinths, being florists' 
flowers, will be hereafter treated of, and the time for plant- 
ing out bulbs w^ill be given in the calendar of work at the 
end. It is only necessary, therefore, here to add, that bulbs 
and corms should be planted at different depths, according 
to their size; the larger sorts being placed six inches be- 
neath the surface of the soil, and the smaller ones three or 
four inches. It is important that they be planted thus deep, 
as they will never thrive well when placed too near the 
light, and also to prevent their being injured by drought, 
or, where they remain in the ground all the winter, by frost. 



140 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



Insects of various kinds are very destructive to bulbs, 
and they should therefore be attentively watched, espe- 
cially about the time they appear above the ground, as, 
at this period of their growth, slugs are very apt to 
devour the youug leaves and flower-buds. Plants of this 
description require a rather rich soil, and one that is 
moderately retentive of moisture, but not too much so. 
They should never be planted under the shade of trees or 
any other shelter, as an exposed situation is indispensable 
to the production of good flowers. Many of them, such as 
crocuses and irises, have a very pretty appearance when 
planted either in rows or otherwise in small beds, particu- 
larly if care is taken to have a good and pleasing variety of 
colours. But the best situation for the smaller sorts is 
along the edges of borders, as near as possible to the walk, 
where they will not be covered or injured by larger plants, 
and will produce a very showy efiect. Snow-drops and 
crocuses are admirably adapted for this purpose ; and if 
they are judiciously mingled with each other, their appear- 
ance will be very attractive in the spring months. The 
dog-tooth violet would also form a pleasing variety, if 
planted in a similar situation. The larger sorts, such as 
lilies, should be planted at the back of the border or to- 
wards the centre of a clump, and these latter must espe- 
cially be removed every two or three years, as they will 
never flower well if allowed to remain in the same spot for 
a longer period, on account of the abundance of certain 
elements which they abstract from the soil ; a circum- 
stance which has only been very recently ascertained, but 
is now placed beyond all question. 

4. — Hardy Biennial Flowering Plants, 
Biennials are plants which, like annuals, generally die 
after they have produced their flowers and seeds, but are 
usually two years in perfecting these, andin many instances 
may be induced to flower for two or three successive 
seasons, by preventing them from maturing their seed. 
'1 hey are, however, naturally only of two years' duration, 
and hence the term "biennial" has been most appro- 
priately applied to them. It must not from thence be 
inferred that none of those plants which come under this 



ox REARING FLOWERS. 



141 



denomination ever produce their flowers for two or even 
three successive years ; for this would lead to great errors 
in practice, as it is well known that many of the varieties of 
hollyhock continue to exist and flower for several years, 
though it may be observed, that young plants invariably 
flower in the greatest perfection. 

This is a limited, and, generally speaking, an uninterest- 
ing class of plants, as it contains very few species which are 
at all suitable for small gardens. This, therefore, will 
sufficiently account for the shortness of the succeeding list. 

SELECT LIST OF HARDY BIENNIAL FLOWERING 
PLANTS. 

Sad Rocket {Hesperis tristis). Flowers in April. Parple. 
Strict Flax {Linum s(rictum). Fl. in May. Yellow. 
Strict Corydalis {Corydalis stActa). Fl. in May. Yellow. 
Fragrant Rocket (Hesperis fragrans). FL in June. Purple. 
Dwarf Candy-tuft (Iberis nana). Fl. in June. Purple. 
Californian Eschscholtzia (Eschscholtzm Calif ornica). Fl. in July. 
Yellow. 

Caucasean Gentian (Gentiana Caucasea). Fl. in July. Blue. 
Vinna.te S9.ge (Salvia pinnata). Fl. in July. Purple. 
Virginian Flax (Linum, 11,7'giniamim). Fl. in July. Yellow. 
Rose Campion (Agrostemma coronaria). Fl. in July. Red. 

From one to two feet high, and upwards. 
Queen's Stock (CheirantTais incamis). Fl. in April. White. 
Sweet-scented (Euothera (CEnothera odorata). Fl. in April. Yellow. 
Stavesacre (Delphinium staphesagria). Fl. in April. Blue. 
Broad-leaved Bugloss (Anclnisa latifolia). Fl. in May. Blue. 
Umbellated Hound's Tongue (Cynoglossum umhellatv.m). Fl. in 
May. Purple. 

Spanish Catchfly (Silene HispanicaX Fl. in June. Cream-coloured. 
French Honeysuckle (Hedysarura corona riura) . Fl.in June. Scarlet. 
"White French Honevsuckie (H. coronarium album . Fl. in June. 
White. 

Greater Snapdragon, and varieties (Antirrhinum majus, et var.). 

Fl. in June. Various colours. 
Purple Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea). Fl. in June. Purple. 
Officinal Hound's Tongue (Cynoglossum officinale). Fl. in June. Red. 
Biennial Honesty [Lunaria biennis). FJ. in June. Light Purple. 
Powdered Mullein (Verbascum pulverulentum). Fl. in June. Yellow. 
Medium Bpll-flower {Campjanula medium). Fl. in June. Blue. 
Biennial OEnothera ( (Eiiof/iera biennis). Fl. in June. Yellow. 
Aggregate Pink (Dianthus aggregatus). Fl. in .June. Purple. 
Yellow Horn Poppy (Glaucium iiavurn). Fl. in June. Yellow. 
Bundle-flowered Poppy (Papaver floribundum) . Fl, in June. Scarlet. 
Purple Sheep's Scabious [ScaJbiosa atropurpurea). Fl. in July. 

Purple. 



142 



PEICTICE OF GARDENIIs'G. 



Common Viper's Bugloss {Ecliium vulgare). Fl. in July. Red. 
Violet-flowered Viper's Bugloss (E. violaceum). Fl. in July. Blue. 
Large-flowered CEnothera {CEnothera grandijlora), Fl, in July. 
Yellow. 

Intermediate Candy-tuft (Iberis interraedia). Fl. in July. White. 

Tall Rocket {Hesperis elata). Fl. in July. Pink. 

Biennial Gaura (6^aMm Mennis). Fl. in August. Red. 

Tawny Horn Poppy [GloMcium fulcurii). Fl. in August. Orange. 

Rosy Hollyhock, and varieties {AWioea rosea, et vai'.). Fl. in Aug. 

Various colours. 
Biennial Lavatera [Lavatera biennis). Fl. in August. Red. 
Lance-leaved Coreo'psis {Coreopsis lanceolato.). Fl.in Aug. Yellow. 
Conspicuous Eryth {ErytTiroloiaa conspicua). Fl. in Sept. Red. 
Hoary Starwort {Aster canescens). Fl. in Sept. Violet-coloured. 

Biennials may all be raised from seed, which is produce 1 
abundantly by most of the species ; and the best time for 
sowing them is as soon as the seed is ripe. With those 
that flower very late in the season, however, it would be 
injudicious to sow the seed at the time of ripening, and it 
is much better to preserve it till the spring. The seed 
should be sown in shallow drills, or in small beds of four 
or five feet in width, in an exposed situation ; and the young 
plants should be thinned to a proper distance from each 
other as soon as they appear, that they may not gi^ow too 
weak and sickly, also taking care to remove all weeds. If 
the seed is sown ea.rly in the autumn, the plants will be 
large enough to remove to the borders in the spring, and, 
like perennials, they should be taken up with as much soil 
as possible about the roots. But if they are not sown till 
the spring, they should be retained in the seed-bed till the 
early part of the succeeding spring, when they may then 
be removed to the borders in which they are intended to 
flower. Those which are sown early in the autumn, will 
frequently flower in the following summer ; but, if they 
are not sufficiently strong, the tendency to flower should 
be timely checked, and they will blossom much finer in 
the ensuing year. 

Though all biennials are capable of being multiplied from 
seed, there are ma.ny which would produce difi^ereut varie- 
ties from seed, and consequently very fine sorts of such can 
only be increased by cuttings. This is the case with many 
of the beautiful varieties of snapdragon ; and by frequently 
taking off* cuttings from them, and striking them under a 



ON REARIKG FLOWERS. 



143 



hand-glass iu a warm situation, they may be brought into 
flower in almost constant succession through the^^ summer 
months. Hollyhocks, likewise, and rockets, may be in- 
creased by dividing the roots, and will frequently flower, 
as has been before stated, for several years successively. 
The double varieties of the Brompton and Queen stocks 
neither produce seed nor are capable of being increased 
by cuttings ; therefore it is recommended, by writers on 
the subject, to plant a single one of the same colour by 
the side of the double one, when, it is said, the seeds of 
the single one will prodiice plants with double flowers. 
This theory, it must be confessed, is rather a strange one, 
but, in the absence of any other sure method of repro- 
ducing these plants with double flowers, it may be 
adopted, and perhaps with success. 

The general treatment given to biennials is precisely 
the same as that recommended for perennials, and parti- 
cular attention should be paid to securing them timely 
and properly to stakes of such a size as they may require. 
The numerous varieties of hollyhock should es]3ecially 
be staked as soon as the flower-stems commence growing ; 
and if stakes of a sufiScient size and strength cannot readily 
be procured, they should be planted at a short distance 
from a wall or paling, and loosely fastened (not trained) 
thereto. All others that require supporting should be 
secured to stakes in the early period of their growth, 
according to the directions before given for perennials. 

In the case of such plants as produce no seed, or those 
of which the seed is not desii*ed, particularly with snap- 
dragons and Brompton stocks, if the flowers are plucked 
oS" as soon as they begin to decay, they soon produce a 
succession of blossoms, and will not only continue flower- 
ing during the greater part of the season, but will not 
unfrequently (especially the former) flower for several 
years. But, however desirable this may be with very 
fine sorts, the flov/ers produced on such plants are never 
so good as those of young plants, and hence it is much 
better to renew them annually, either by cuttings or seed. 

The majority of biennial flowers will flourish in any 
common garden-soil, but a light and rather rich loam is 
most suitable for them. The various species of Oenothera, 



144 



PRACTICE OP GARDENING. 



however, are exceptions to this rule, as, in a rich soil, 
they will expend all their strength in producing shoots 
and leaves, and the flowers will be much larger and finer 
if the plants are grown in a rather sterile soil. 

5. — Hardy Annual Flowering Plants. 

Annuals, as their name implies, exist only for one year, 
and, having perfected their seed, perish. It is, however, 
an interesting fact, that these plants never die (except from 
casualties) till they have furnished the means of reproducing 
their species, or, in other words, till they have ripened their 
seeds ; and if the flowers are constantly plucked ofi" as they 
decay, the plant will not perish unless it is killed by frost 
or some other principle equally destructive. They are an 
extremely interesting tribe, as they furnish the flower-beds 
and borders with some attractive feature throughout the 
whole of the summer months, and, in short, during the 
whole period through which plants are capable of flowering 
in the open air. Besides which, the flowers of most of 
them are very showy and ornamental, and they vary in 
height from a few inches to several feet ; their flowers are 
also of the most extensive diversity of form and colour, are 
usually produced in great profusion, and they are certainly 
some of the most beautiful and delightful objectswhich are 
known and cultivated in this country. From an almost 
innumerable quantity of species, the following have been 
selected as being some of the most ornamental, and the 
most easily obtained ; and, if they are once purchased, or 
procured from a friend, they maybe continued for an in- 
cleflnite ^Deriod, by annually preserving their seeds. 

SELECT LIST OF HARDY ANNUAL FLOWERING PLANTS. 

From six inches to one foot high. 

Delicsite CEaothevsi (CEnothera tenella). Flowers in April. Purple. 
Indian Pimpernel (Anagallis Indica). Fl. in May. Blue. 
Yeuus's Looking-glass {PHsmatocarpus speculum). Fl. in May. 
Purple. 

Large-flowered Collinsia {Collinsia grandiflora). Fl. in May. Blue. 
Purple CEnotliera {(Enothera purpurea). Fl. in May. Purple. 
Linear-leaved Collomia (Collomia linearis). Fl. in June. Red. 
Smaller Indian Cress {Tropceolum minus). Fl. in June. Yellow. 
Trailing CEnothera {CEnothera humifusa). Fl. in June. Purple. 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 



145 



Elegant Gypsophila {GypsopMla elegans). Fl. in June. Pink. 
Downy Pmk (Diant/ms pubescens). Fl. in June. Red. 
Mignonette {Reseda odorata). Fl. in June. Green. 
Umbellated Madwort (Alyssum umheUatum). Fl. in June. Yellow. 
Bitter Candy-tuft {Iberis amara). Fl. in June. White. 
Umbellated Candy-ttift (/. umbellata). Fl. in June. Purple. 
Trailing Nolana {Nolana prostrata)^ Fl. in July. Blue. 
Scarlet Collomia {Collomia coccinea). Fl. in July. Red. 
Showy Nemophila (Nemophila insignis). Fl. in July. Blue. 
Lesser Convolvulus {Convolvulus minor). Fl. in July. Blue 
Headed Gilia {Gilia capitata). Fl. in July. Blue. 
French Flax {Linum Gallicum). Fl. in July. Yellow. 
Four-winged Oenothera {CEnothera tetraptera). Fl. in July. White. 
Armeria {Dianthus armeria). Fl. in July. Red. 
Sweet-scented Candy-tuft {Ihf-ris odorata). Fl. in July. White. 
Dwarf Lupin {Lvpinus nanus). Fl. in July. Blue. 
Spreading Loasa (jLoasa_patw?a). Fl. in July. Yellow. 
Trifid Vervain {Verbena trifida). Fl. in August. Purple. 
China Aster^ and Varieties {Callistema Jiortense, et var.). Fl. in Aug. 
Various colours. 

Autumnal Pheasant's Eye {Adonis autumnalis) Fl. in Sept. Dark red. 
Californian Platystemon {Platystemon calif ornica). Fl. in June and 
July. Yellow. 

Wrangle's Eutoca {Eutoca Wrangeliana). Fl.in June and July. Blue. 
Californian Lasthenia {Lasthenia californica), Fl. in J uue and July, 
Yellow. 

Spotted Nemophila {Nemophila maculata). Fl. in June and July. 
Spotted. 

Atriplex-leaved Nolana {Nolana atriplicifolia). Fl. in June and July. 
Blue and yellow. 

From one to two feet high, and upwards. 

Headed Strawberry Blite {Blitura capitatum). Fl. in May. Red. 
Annual Stock, and varieties {Mathiola annua, et var.). Fl. in May. 
Various colours. 

Two-coloured Calliopsis {Calliopsis bicolor). Fl. in May. Yellow. 
Vvettj {ClarMa pidchella). Fl. in June. Pink. 

Elegant Clarkia (C. elegans). Fl. in June. Pink. 
Varieties of Rhoeas Poppy {Papaver Ehceas, var.). Fl. in June. 
Various colours. 

Ajax Larkspur, and varieties {Delphinium J^acis). Fl. in June. 
Various colours. 

Comfrey, and varieties (Z>. consolida, et var). Fl. in June. Various 
colours. 

African Cysticapnos (C^sticopwos Ji/Hcamts). Fl. in June. Red. 
Sweet Pea {Lathyrus odoratus). Fl. in June. Various colours. 
Tangier Pea {L. tingitanus). Fl. in June. Purple. 
Glossy Loasa (ioasa mtidJa). Fl. in June. Yellow. 
Scarlet Cacalia {Cacalia coccinea). Fl. in June. Orange. 
Erect African Marigold ( Tagetes erecta). Fl. in June. Yellow. 
'Eleg&nt Zinma, {Zinnia elegans). Fl.in June. Scarlet. 
Annual Sun-flower {Helianthus annuus). Fl. in June. Yellow. 

O 



146 



PKACTICE OF GAEDENING. 



Common Marigold {Calendula officinalis). Fl. in June. Orange. 
Great Cape Marigold (C. hyhrida). Fl. in June. "White. 
Lindley's (Enottiera {CEnotliera Lindleyii). Fl. in June. Pink. 
Annual Xeranthemum {Xeranthemum annuum). Fl. in July. Purple 
Twiggy Strawberry Elite {Blitum virgatum). Fl. in July. Red. 
Pinnate Schizanthus {Schizanthus pinnatus). Fl. in July. White 
and purple. 

Spreading Schizanthus (^S'. porrigens). Fl. in July. White and 
purple. 

Retuse Schizanthus {S. retusiis). Fl. in July. Crimson and yellow. 
Greater Convolvulus {Convolvulus major). Fl. in July. Various 
colours. 

Varieties of the Somniferous Poppy {Fapaver somnifera, var.). Fl. 

in July. Various colours. 
^])3imsh Fermel Flower {Nigella Hispanica). Fl. in July. White. 
Yellow Lupin {Lupinus luteus). Fl. in July. Yellow. 
African Hibiscus {Hibiscus africanus). Fl. in July. White and 

brown. 

Glutinous Hawkweed {HieroA^ium glutinosum). Fl. in July. Yellow. 
Spreading African Marigold {Tagetes patula). Fl. in July. Orange. 
Paradoxical Nolana (iSTb^ana p<xm<io.m). Fl. in August. Blue. 
Hairy Lupin {Lupinus hirsutus). Fl. in August. Blue. 
Melancholy Amaranth (Amarantus JippochondriaGUs). Fl. in Aug. 
D.irk red. 

Love lies bleeding {A. caudatus). Fl. in August. Red. 
Sweet Sultan {Centaitrea moschata). Fl. in August. Purple, 
Dark purple Salpiglossis {Salpiglossis atropurpurea). Fl. in August. 
Purple. 

Fine-leaved (Enothera {CEnothera tenuifoUa). Fl. in Aug. Yellow. 
Rose of Heaven {Lychnis coeli rosea). Fl. in x^ugust. Pink. 
Golden Bartonia {Bartonia aurea). Fl. in July and Aug. Yellow. 
Broad-rayed Callichroa {Calliohroa platyglossa). Fl. in July and 

August. Yellow. 
Lore's Bell-flower {Campanula Lorei). Fl.in July and August. Blue. 
Peroffski's Hedge Mustard {Erysimum Peroffskianum). Fl. in June 

and July. Orange. 
Viscid Eutoca {Eutoca viscida). Fl. in July and August. Blue. 
Thrice-cut Malope (Malope trijida). Fl. in June and July. Red. 

The cultivation of annual flowers is so exceedingly sim- 
ple, and is conducted in such a perfectly natural manner, 
that few directions appear to be necessary. Indeed, many 
of them, if left to themselves, would scatter their own 
seeds, and thus reproduce themselves without the assist- 
ance of man. Were this, however, allowed to take place, 
the garden, instead of being a model of neatness and good 
order, would soon become a wilderness of confusion ; and 
the plants, instead of being arranged so as to have a 
pleasing variety of colours, would grow in dense masses of 
one sort and colour, and all order and regularity, which, to 



ON EEAMXG FLOWEES. 



147 



a certain extent, is so necessary and desirable in a garden, 
would be at once destroyed. Besides, there are many 
plants which will not reproduce themselves in this way; 
and others, which would, are incapable of standing through 
the winter in the open ground. It is therefore important 
that some general rules should be given for their manage- 
ment, and these will be condensed into as small a compass 
as is compatible with the interest of the subject. 

The main object in cultivating annual plants being to 
induce them to flower and perfect their seeds, it is impor- 
tant that every feature in their cultivation should tend to 
promote this desirable and necessary end. For this pur- 
pose, seeds of annual plants should never be sown (except 
a few sorts which will not bear transplanting) where they 
are intended to flower ; — a practice very generally recom- 
mended for the sake of saving trouble. To save trouble, 
however, at the expense of the health or beauty of the 
plants, appears somewhat paradoxical, as it is undoubtedly 
the object of every cultivator to have his plants or flowers 
as fine as possible. This object, then, cannot be attained 
by sowing annuals where they are desired to flower, as they 
require to be transplanted, on the same principle as cab- 
bages, to check their growth, and enable them to form 
flowers, instead of so many stems and leaves. It has been 
before stated, that these remarks will not apply to all an- 
nual plants ; for, on the contrary, there are some, such as 
poppies, mignonette, sweet peas, lupins, and a few others, 
which have so few fibrous roots that they would be much 
injured by being transplanted, and of course it would be 
extremely injudicious to subject these to such an operation. 
These should be sown in round patches in the bed or bor- 
der where they are to flower, and covered with about half 
an inch or an inch in depth of light soil. As soon as the 
young plants appear, they should be successively thinned to 
a proper distance from each other, leaving only three, four, 
or six in the circle, according to their size. The word suc- 
cessively is used, because, if they are at once thinned out to 
the required distance, some of the plants will very probably 
die or be destroyed by insects, and a deficiency would thua 
be occasioned ; whereas, if they are thinned out at succes- 
sive intervals^ such an occurrence might be easily obviated. 



148 



PRACTICE OF GARDE2vT^'G. 



But the majority of annual plants will derive much be- 
nefit from being transplanted in an early stage of their 
growth, as any liixuiiance in stems and leaves will thus be 
checked, and new root-fibres will be formed, which will 
foi'nish a fresh supply of nom-ishment for the development 
of the flowers. Besides which, where plants of this de- 
scription are sown in circles in the flower borders, they 
will occupy too large a space of gi'ound, — too many plants 
of one soii:- vrill be brought together, — and as they will 
require thinning, the thinnings will either be wasted, or it 
will be almost impossible to take them up with sufficient 
cai^e for transplanting, without injuiing the remainiug 
plants. We therefore recommend that, with the exception 
of the sorts before named, and some few others, all annual 
plants be raised on a bed or border prepared for the pur- 
pose, and from thence transplanted to the situation in 
which they are required to flower. 

Early in March, a bed or border of light rich soil should 
be prepared, and the hardiest sorts of annuals sown in 
shallow drills about three inches apart, and half an inch or 
more in depth, according to their size. If any severe wea- 
ther occurs after they appear above the surface of the 
ground, they may be sheltered at night, by placing hoops 
of willow or other flexible wood over the bed, and covering 
them with garden mats ; but this protection will seldom be 
necessary with, the hardy sorts. Towards the latter end of 
March, or early in April, a similar bed may be prepared, 
and the more tender kinds sown in it in the same manner; 
these will especially require protection if frosty nights 
occur, which may be efi'ected according to the preceding 
du-ections. Xeither of these sowings will require any 
attention till they have formed three or four leaves, except 
the weather should prove dry during this time, when they 
may be gently watered in the morning (not in the evening) 
of the day. If a little stable dung is at command to place 
beneath the bed on which the tender sorts are sown, they 
"svill germinate more speedily ; though this is not essential, 
and, where it is employed, they should be well protected 
duiing the night, when the weather is unfavourable. When 
the plants have formed four or five leaves, they will be fit 
for transplanting, and a mild and cloudy evening should be 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 



149 



chosen for performing this operation. The plants should 
be taken up carefully from the bed with a small three- 
pronged fork, taking care not to injure their roots ; and 
those with long tapering roots should have the points of 
their roots cut off in the same manner as has been before 
recommended for cabbage, but on no account should the 
small fibrous roots be shortened or injured. They should 
be planted in clusters of three, at three, four, or six inches 
apart, according to their size; and the more tender sorts 
should be covered each evening with an inverted flower-pot 
till they become established. They should also be slightly 
shaded during the heat of the day, if they evince any signs 
of drooping, by sticking a few laurel or other green 
branches in the ground on the south side of the plants. 
Water must be constantly supplied to them if the v/ea- 
ther be not showery, and it should be given in the morn- 
ing of each day, taking care never to wet the leaves. As 
they are very liable to be attacked by slugs and snails, per- 
haps it is safer to plant rather more thickly, and put five 
or six plants in a group. Where there is sufficient space, 
larger patches of annuals, by presenting a broader mass 
of one colour, are most desirable, and the plants support 
each other better. A. small bed, filled entirely with one 
sort, or a larger one with concentric circles, of different 
sorts, the colours being well harmonised, will have an 
exceedingly good and gay effect. 

To ensure a succession of flowers, other sowings may be 
made in April, May, and June, and treated precisely in 
the same manner. Annual plants require to be planted in 
a very exposed situation, for, as an abundance of fine and 
showy flowers is most desired, these will never be pro- 
duced except they are afforded a sufficient degree of solar 
light. They should, for the same reason, never be planted 
in a rich soil, which would cause them to produce shoots 
and foliage rather than flowers, and some of them, such 
as (Enotheras, require to be planted in a very poor soil. 
Timely and judicious staking is of first importance, and 
we need only refer the reader to the remarks on this 
subject under the head of perennials, where the manner 
of performing the operation is fully detailed. As with 
biennials, where the seed of any particular plant or clump 

o 



150 



PRACTICE OF GAEDENI2hG. 



of plants is not desired, their flowering may be greatly pro- 
longed by plucking off the flowers as they fade, and not 
allowing the plant to produce seed. Sweet-peas may thus be 
continued in flower till the frost appears to destroy them, 
and will form a very pretty feature amongst the autumnal 
flowering plants. Mignonette will also flower all the season 
if similarly treated, and may even, when potted and shel- 
tered in winter, be converted into a sort of perennial by 
this means. Candy -tuft will likewise produce a second or a 
third display of bloom, if the flowers be removed as fast as 
they fade. But in this and all other similar cases, success 
can only be attained by the most prompt and careful atten- 
tion ; for, if once the seed is allowed to develop itself, the 
plants will be weakened, and never again flower finely. 
When the seed of any plant is intended to be saved, (which 
should be particularly attended to by persons of small 
means,) as soon as it is properly matured, the plants should 
be taken up and the seed-pods cut off and placed on paper 
in the sun to dry, removing it of course at night and in wet 
weather to a sheltered place. Seed should always be col- 
lected in fine and dry weather, and never be suffered to re- 
main on the plant till it is too ripe, otherwise it will be 
liable to be scattered by the wind. The best and safest me- 
thod is to gather each pod as they severally ripen, just be- 
fore it begins to burst, and having dried it on paper or can- 
vas as before directed, to rub out the seeds and preserve 
them in paper in a dry situation through the winter. 

A few plants of the hardy kinds, if allowed to remain, 
will scatter their own seeds ; and if these are properly 
thinned, or carefully transplanted to any desirable situa- 
tion, they will frequently stand through the winter, and 
flower in great beauty early in the spring. Or the hardier 
kinds may be sown, at the end of August or beginning of 
September, where they are to remain. 

In planting annuals, as indeed all other flowering 
plants, due regard should be paid to their height, and the 
colours of their flowers, so as to have the smallest plants 
in the front of the bed or border, and the larger ones in 
the centre or at the back ; and likewise to have as great a 
variety of colours as possible. To effect this latter pur- 
pose, it is important, unless the plants are well known, to 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 



151 



write the colour of annual flowers on the paper in which 
the seeds are kept, as by this means a proper admixture 
of colours may be ensured, and no two plants of the same 
colour will be planted near each other. In the general 
effect produced by a border or bed of flowers, this feature 
is of more importance than most persons are aware, and 
should never be neglected by any individual who con- 
sults the beauty, in general appearance, of the piece of 
ground which he may be able to devote to the cultivation 
of flowers. A proper attention to height is, however, 
of still greater importance, and in proportion as flower- 
beds or borders are planted with these two points in view, 
to the same degree will they be ornamental or unsightly. 

As with perennials, the dead or decaying stems of 
annuals should be promptly removed. Nothing gives a 
more littery appearance to a garden than such things ; 
and, in autumn, they form a sort of nucleus or harbour- 
age for decayed leaves and insects. 

There is a small class of annuals, with climbing habits, 
which deserve special notice, and _may be made great 
ornaments to a garden. The sweet-pea and the larger 
convolvulus are well-known examples. The varieties of 
Tropaeolum majus, Tropaeolum canariense, Loasa nitida 
and alba, and the everlasting pea and Tropaeolum tubero- 
sum among perennials, are all quite hardy enough to be 
easily grown, and are exceedingly pretty. The seed may 
be sown in pots, and the seedlings afterwards planted out, 
or put at once in the ground, rather more thickly than 
the plants are wanted, to allow for accidents. A few 
bushes stuck in the ground around an irregular cluster 
of plants, leaving the latter to throw themselves over the 
stakes in a loose or tangled manner, will be the most 
appropriate way of treating them, especially as the Loasas 
are armed with such powerful stings as to render it im- 
prudent to touch them. The convolvulus, however, may 
be trained to a trelHs, or over a porch, or to the stem of 
a tree, or amongst a few scarlet runners, as it grows taller 
than the rest, and requires higher stakes or other support. 
The Tropaeolum canariense is an elegant plant for grow- 
ing in pots. 

For decorating the windows of a house, or supplying a 



152 



PRACTICE OF GAEDEXING. 



little variety of oruament to a flower stage out of doors, 
or an in-door flower- stand, a few annuals may fitly be 
grown in boxes or pot^, in which their seeds should either 
be sown, or they should be transplanted into them when 
very young. I>Iignonette and stocks mixed, ISTemophila 
insignis, and any low-growing annual that has a disposi- 
tion to trail, and flowers abundantly and for some length 
of time, will answer this purpose admirably. But the 
numerous and beautiful sorts of half-hardy annuals, which 
we have not enumerated in our list, will often be even 
more appropriate. Rhodanthe Manglesii, the species of 
Portulaca and Calandrinia, the showiest varieties of Phlox 
Drummondii, Lobelia gracilis, the Clintonias, and Mesem- 
bryanthemum tricolor, will make a very good collection 
of such plants. They must be treated, for the most part, 
as hereafter recommended for potted plants in general ; 
requiring a rather light soil, careful potting, and constant 
attention in regard to water. They may be reared as 
before directed in a slight hot-bed, or be sown in the pots, 
in the month of April, and kept in the house or pro- 
tected at night until frosts are over. Wlien placed in 
their final quarters, there should not be more than three 
or four plants in a pot of from four to five inches diame- 
ter at the top. 

The seeds of many varieties of annuals are now largely 
obtained from Germany, where they have brought some 
of the kinds to extraordinary perfection. German ten- 
week stocks, asters, and larkspurs, are superior to any- 
thing of the kind raised in this country. But they 
degenerate if reared from seeds saved in Britain. Where, 
therefore, a small sum yearly can be spared for the pur- 
chase of these, they will be found a great acquisition to a 
garden. They should be treated as tender annuals. 

6. — Florists' Floioers, 
The flowers peculiarly called "florists' flowers" are 
those which sport, as it is termed, or in other words such 
as produce new and distinct varieties when propagated 
from seed ; and many of them even change the colours of 
their flowers. Flowers of this description are in fact 
nearly all the productions of art, having been raised 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 



153 



chiefly by high cultivation from insignificant and almost 
worthless plants : and they are among the most striking 
proofs of the skill and ingenuity of man which the vege- 
table kingdom affords. Many florists' flowers, however, 
are often prized from mere fancy and caprice, rather than 
for real and sterling merit and beauty, and their cultiva- 
tion, when pursued too eagerly, has frequently led to evil 
results. Thus the Dutch are said to have gambled in 
tulips, the bulbs rating as high as £1000 each, though 
probably never seen by the persons who bought them. 
High prices are sometimes given for a single plant of 
some florists' flowers when new and rare, and as much as 
five guineas have been paid for an auricula or polyanthus, 
and twenty or even fifty guineas for a tulip — a piece of 
folly, when it is merely an indulgence of fancy — a mer- 
cantile speculation, when for the purpose of breeding 
more of the same sort for sale. It is, however, a danger- 
ous speculation, and many respectable individuals have 
reduced themselves and their families to penury and 
want by too great an indulgence in it. 

The manufacturing classes of some parts of England and 
Scotland are very enthusiastic florists, and derive great 
pleasure from their gardening societies. At the meetings 
of these societies, premiums are awarded to those who 
exhibit the finest flowers, and keen competition is awak- 
ened ; but such societies would not succeed well among 
the agriculturists, as their labour is all out of doors, and 
gardening consequently is no relaxation. As many indi- 
viduals for whom this little work is intended take a delight 
in growing plants of this description, a few plain directions 
will now be given for cultivating the principal sorts. 

The old florists' flowers are auriculas, polyanthuses, 
pinks, carnations, tulips, hyacinths, ranunculuses, and ane- 
mones ; to which have been lately added dahlias, and 
pansies, or hearts-ease. These are all perennials : but as 
they each require a peculiar system of cultivation, they 
have been omitted under the head of perennials, and are 
here introduced. 

It is obviously impossible, in a work of this size, to give 
more than a very brief outline of the principles on which 
all or any of the plants thus enumerated should be 



ON REARING FLO-WEES. 



155 



regularly tliinned, leaving only eight or ten of the finest 
to each umbel. When they ai^e in full flower, they should 
be placed in a shaded situation, which will continue them 
in bloom for a greater length of time. After flowering, 
they may be again potted, and treated as before directed. 

Polyanthuses, with which may be included double 
primroses, though they are most successfully ctiltivated 
when kept in pots, will nevertheless grow very fine when 
planted in the open border, requiring no other protection 
than to be planted in a shaded situation (a border with a 
northern aspect is best). They may be propagated in a 
similar manner to auiiculas, — by division of the roots for 
increasing old sorts, and by seed for obtaining new varie- 
ties. The division of the roots must be effected by the 
hand, and not with a knife, and should be performed after 
the plants have ceased flovrering. The old plants should 
be taken from the ground at this time, and after separa- 
ting the young ofi'sets from them, they should all be 
planted into a border of loamy soil that has been freshly 
dug and well maniu-ed, and is situated on the north side 
of a wall. If kept in pots, they may be treated in the same 
manner as auriculas, and the flowers should also be 
tliinned to render them finer. Seed of the polyanthus 
(the double primrose does not produce seed) may be sown 
in the autumn, in pans or boxes of loamy soil, and very 
slightly covered with earth ; the young plants will appear 
in the spiing, and when they are of a sufficient size, they 
may be planted out in a shady border of rather rich 
loamy soil, where they will require no more than ordi- 
nary attention. They will flower in the following spring, 
and the best sorts should be transplanted after flowering 
into a similar border, while the worthless ones may be 
thrown away. 

Pinks and carnations are so similar to each other in 
habit, and their treatment being in most respects the same, 
it will be convenient to off'er a few general observations 
which will apply to both. With regard to their propaga- 
tion, however, they difter materially, as catenations are 
multiplied by layers, while pinks are increased by cut- 
tings, or, as they are u^usaIy termed, jyqj in gs. For the 
method of propagatmg carnadons, we refer to the article 



156 



PEACTICE OF GARDEXIXG. 



ou ^'layers " in a former part of this work, and now pro- 
ceed to offer a few remarks on the propagation of pinks. 
The pipings or young shoots of pinks, shouklbe taken off 
while the ph^nts are in ffower : and having prepared a 
small piece of ground for them in a south border of a 
light loamy (and rather sandy^ soil, this should be well 
watered, and the pipings, when prepared, inserted into it_, 
and covered with a handglass. The pipings should be 
taken ofl'just below the second or third joint, and the 
end cut very smoothly ; the lower circle of leaves should 
then be strip^r^ed off', and the upper ones left entire. In 
this state they should be planted in the soil about half 
an inch in depth, and two inches apart, and having covered 
them with the handglass, they should be constantly 
shaded when the sun is shining, though not at other 
times. It is essential to the success of the operation, that 
the pipings be placed firmly in the soil, and watered after- 
wards as they may require. After the first week or fort- 
night, the plants should occasionally receive air, by tilting 
the front of the glass with a brick or block of wood. As 
soon as they appear to have struck root, they should be 
more exposed to light and air, and then removed to the 
bed or border where they are to remain. 

Pinks and most sorts of carnations are sufficiently hardy 
to endure the winter of our climate in the open air, and 
though potting is recommended for the choice sorts, we 
shall not here advert to it. The soil for these plants 
should be composed of three parts of tiu^fy loam, two 
j^arts of well-rotted manure, and one part of river sand ; 
a little lime will also be of great benefit, for the purpose 
of destroying insects. This compost should be well ex- 
posed to the frost in the previous winter, and frequently 
turned for the purpose of incorporating it. The pipuigs 
of pinks should be planted out immediately after they 
are struck, and the layers should also be separated from 
carnations as soon as they have formed roots, and planted 
in a compost of the same materials. They require little 
attention in the winter, except it is thou^ilit necessary to 
protect them with mats or straw, which will seldom be 
wanted ; and in the spring, a top-dressing of well-rotted 
manure is recommended to be placed on the surface of 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 



157 



the ground, with the view of keeping the roots cool and 
moist. When the flower-stems appear, if it is desked to 
have the flowers fine, all the stems should be removed 
but three or four, and if the flowers manifest any dis- 
position to burst, a band of garden matting should be 
fastened round them, which will efiectually prevent this 
deficiency. If new sorts are desh'ed, these maybe obtained 
from seeds, which, however, are seldom produced. 

Tulips and hyacinths, being bulbs, require a very differ- 
ent treatment to those florists' flowers hitherto noticed. 
Like all other bulbs, they mtist be removed from the soil 
dui'ing a certain period, and again replaced in it before 
they recommence growing. Tulips and hyacinths may be 
both propagated by seeds, though these will produce new 
vaiieties, and this method therefore is seldom employed 
except by florists. The usual mode of propagating them 
is by off'sets, which are generally produced each year, and 
will flower afcer about two years from the time of separa- 
ting them. The bulbs should be planted in beds, if pos- 
sible, in an exposed situation, in the month of Xovember; 
but these remarks apply more particularly to tulips, as 
hyacinths are seldom planted in the open gi'ound. The 
soil most suitable is a rich turfy loam, manui^ed with a 
small portion of well-rotted horse-duug ; and in a bed of 
this compost the bulbs should be planted in rows, at six 
inches apart either way, and inserted in the soil by means 
of a dibble to the depth of three or four inches. As 
soon as the leaves appear, the plants should be attentively 
watched, to prevent the attacks of insects, which atten- 
tion will hkewise be necessary through the whole period 
of then' growth. When the flowers appear, if some slight 
shading can be afibrded them, they will continue in bloom 
a much greater length of time ; and the taller-growing 
sorts, which of course should be planted in the centre of 
the bed, will probably requh^e supporting with slender 
stakes. As soon as the flowers have fallen, if seed is not 
deshed, the seed-pod should be picked ofl*, which will 
promote the decay of the leaves and the ripening of the 
bulbs : and when the leaves and stem have completely 
decayed, the bulbs should be taken from the soil in dry 
weather, and kept in dry boxes or di^awers till the time 

p 



158 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



of planting. At the time of taking up the bulbs, all 
offsets should be separated, and these should not be 
planted with the old bulbs in the autumn, but should be 
placed in some retired part of the garden by themselves, 
where they can be well exposed to the sun. If they mani- 
fest any disposition to flower the first year, this should be 
duly checked, and they wdll be in a proper state for 
flowering in the second season. Hyacinths, if growm out 
of doors, should have a much more sandy soil, with a mix- 
ture of leaf mould, well decayed. The beds, as with tuUps, 
should be slightly raised, and particularly well-drained. 

Although many hyacinths will flower well according to 
the treatment thus detailed, they will also be very inte- 
resting ornaments to the sitting-room, if planted in pots, 
or kept in water-glasses. If hyacinths are planted in pots, 
the soil used should be a light sandy loam wdth a slight 
addition of well-rotted manure, and the bulbs should be 
planted so as to allow the upper part to stand above the 
level of the soil. An excellent method of accelerating 
their flowering, is to plunge the pots containing them into 
the ground, and cover them with about six inches of old 
bark, leaf soil, or other light material, in which situation 
they will come into flower much sooner, and the flowers 
will likewise be better, than if they had been left exposed. 
As soon as they appear above the surface of the material 
used, they may be removed to the window of a dwelling- 
room, where, if they are kept as near as possible to the 
light and liberally supplied with water, they w^ill flovrer 
beautifully. If they are not frequently turned round, how^- 
ever, so as to present every part in succession to the 
light, they will grow one-sided and deformed. It may here 
be remarked, that the choicer species of Narcissus, if 
treated in the same manner, will have an equally inter- 
esting appearance, and flower in as great perfection. 

With respect to the management of hyacinths in water- 
glasses, it is likewise better to plant the bulbs in some 
very light soil, such as leaf-mould, and w^hen they have 
commenced growing, to remove them to the glasses, taking 
care not to injure the roots. The glasses should invariably 
be of a dark colour, and the water in them should be 
occasionally changed. They should also be kept as near as 



ox REARING FLOWERS. 



159 



possible to the light ; and when the flowers begin to fade, 
the bulbs may be removed to the open ground to mature 
themselves. Like those gi^own in pots, they must be 
almost daily turned into a fresh position ; and as the per- 
fection of their appearance consists in having them dwarf 
and strong, they cannot have too much light. "When, 
from being kept in a very warm room, and brought early 
into flower, they require supporting, this may be done by 
means of strong wire, attached to the neck of the glasses, 
and rising perpendicularly on one or both sides of the 
stem. Glasses are now easily procured with this appen- 
dage very neatly afiixed to them. But if the plants are 
properly attended to as regards light, and almost daily 
shifting, and are not too much forced, they ought not to 
require such aid. 

Ranunculuses and anemones have tuberous roots, and 
therefore require a still difi'erent mode of treatment. 
Being sufficiently hardy to endure the open air in our 
climate without protection, and also being highly beautiful 
and ornamental, as well as much more easily procured 
than tulips or auriculas, they should find a place in every 
garden, at least some of the more common sorts. Propa- 
gation may be eff'ected, either by seeds, or by dividing the 
roots ; but the latter is by far the most speedy and 
effectual method. Ranunculuses and anemones will thrive 
well under the same mode of treatment, therefore the 
following brief remarks may be considered equally 
applicable to each. 

The tubers should be planted about the month of 
October, for a general rule ; while some others may be 
put in early in February, by which means a succession of 
flowers will be obtained. The soil most suitable for them 
is a rich loam, with a slight admixture of well-rotted 
dung; and they should be planted in narrow beds, at 
six inches apart either way. The best mode of planting 
them is to draw shallow drills along the surface of the 
bed, and lightly press the tubers into the soil at the 
proper distance in the drill ; this is preferable to planting 
them with a dibble. They should be covered with about 
two inches' depth of soil ; and in selecting the tubers 
. for the purpose of flowering, both large and small ones 

I 



160 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



should be rejected, as those of a moderate size -^ill 
flower best. Particular care should also be taken to keep 
the eye or bud of the tubers uppermost, other\\ise they 
will not flower so well. Those planted in autumn will 
probably requu'e some slight protection in very severe 
weather, which may be efi'ected by placing dry litter or 
straw on the beds, always removing it when the weather 
is more favourable, and exposing them fully to light 
and air. As soon as they appear above the ground, it is 
recommended that the soil be pressed firmly about each 
plant, to prevent any injury they might receive from 
drought. As soon as the flowers expand, if some light 
and thin shading is aflbrded them during the more 
powerful heat of each day, they will continue in bloom a 
much greater length of time, and also preserve theii- 
colours better. The time for taking up the tubers is as 
soon as the leaves decay ; but as anemones frequently 
retain their leaves longer than is desired, some persons 
shelter them with mats or canvas in very wet weather, 
which tends to promote the fading of the leaves, by keep- 
ing the plants dry. After the tubers are taken from the 
soil, they should be carefully dried, and after all soil is 
removed from them, (which should be done with great 
care,) they should be stored in dry bags or boxes, till the 
time for planting. The young ofi'sets or tubers should be 
detached about a month after they are taken from the 
ground, as it is said that they are liable to shrivel when 
this is done too soon, and if it is deferred till the time 
of planting, they are apt to rot. 

If the young tubers or offsets are planted in October, 
in similar soil to that before recommended, they will 
frequently flower the ensuing year, when they may be 
treated in the same manner as the old tubers. Seed may- 
be sown as soon as it is ripe, in tubs or boxes, in a 
loamy soil, and covered very slightly with light earth ; 
the boxes will require a trifling protection during the 
winter, and in the spring they should be plunged their 
whole depth in soil, and the plants should be well 
watered during the summer, if requisite. As soon as the 
leaves begin to wither, water should be gradually 
■vsithheld ; and the tubers may be taken up when the 



ON REARING TLOWERS. 



161 



foliage is sufficiently decayed, and subsequently treated 
as the old plants. Xew varieties may be obtained by 
impregnating the pistil of one flower with the pollen of 
another of a different sort, and, after carefully preserving 
the seed, sowing it as before recommended. 

Dahlias are likewise tuberous-rooted, but their treat- 
ment differs essentially from those last considered. Of 
all florists' flowers, these are, perhaps, the most popular, 
and every one who is acquainted with them, wull at 
once admit that they are deservedly so. They are 
cultivated with such great ease, and the greater part of 
them may be procured at such a very trifling cost, that 
they may with propriety be termed " the cottager's 
flowers."' Many florists, however, annually incur great 
expense and trouble in the cultivation of these plants ; 
but, as it is presumed that few of the readers of this 
little work possess the convenience of frames or ferment- 
ing materials, the usual mode of cultivating them will not 
here be detailed ; and w^e shall endeavour to sketch out a 
system, which will be found simple and economical, as 
well as efficacious. 

Dahlias may be multiplied either by seeds, by cuttings, 
or by dividing the roots. The former of these methods 
is only employed for the purpose of raising new varieties, 
and the seeds should be saved from the best sorts, 
plucked on a dry day, and carefully rubbed out of the 
heads, to be preserved through the winter in a dry 
drawer or other place. About the month of March the 
seeds should be sown in boxes, pans, or pots, in a light 
loamy soil, and kept in the window of a dwelling-room, 
wdth due attention to watering when required. When 
the young plants have formed three or four leaves, they 
may be planted out at three or four inches from each 
other in a warm border, and sheltered in cold weather 
and at night by placing a garden-pot over each in an 
inverted position. As soon as the season is sufficiently 
advanced, they should be taken up carefully, with balls 
of earth to the roots, and planted in an exposed situation, 
at two or three feet from each other either way, where 
they may be treated as hereafter directed for the old 
sorts. When they show their flowers, the sorts that 

P 2 



162 



PRACTICE OF GAEDZyiXG. 



are considered worthy of preservation should be marked, 
and the single or worthless ones at once thrown away. 

Old and established sorts may either be propagated 
by division of the roots, or by cuttings. The method of 
multiplying them, by dividing the roots, is the easiest 
and most simple : but those plants which have been 
raised fi^om cuttings generally flower best. Both are 
performed in the spring, and at the time the plants com- 
mence growing ; but they are, of course, conducted in a 
different manner. In the latter end of April, or the 
beginning of May, the roots should be taken from their 
winter quarters, and having carefully examined them to 
see that the eyes or crowns are sound, they should be 
planted in a warm border with a south aspect, and in a 
very light loose soil, such as leaf-soil or old bark. The 
crowns should be buried about an inch beneath the 
surface of the soil, and if any frost occurs, a little dry 
straw or litter should be thrown over tliem during tlie 
night. "When the shoots have grown about an inch 
above the surface of the soil, if the roots are to be divided, 
they should be taken from the soil, and separated into 
as many pieces as there are shoots, provided that a good 
tuber can be obtained to each plant. The divisions may 
then be planted separately in the border, where they are 
required to flower, and when they are sufficiently esta- 
blished, all the shoots should be removed but one, that 
is, if there happen to be more than one. and the plants 
may be protected in the same manner as directed for 
seedlings, if any frosts occur. If. however, the plants are 
intended to be pror abated by cuttings, (which is the best, 
though not the safest method.) as soon as the shoots 
have attained the height of two inches above the ground, 
the soil should be carefully removed down to the crown 
of the roots, and the young shoots taken off with a kmfe, 
along with a small portion of the crown of the plant. 
They should then be immediately potted singly into 
small pots, in a light loamy soil, and taken to the window 
of a dwelling-room; a little water should be given them 
at the time of pottmg, and also afterwards, when required; 
and they should not be exposed to the rays of the sun 
till after they* have been potted a week, and then only by 



ON REARING FL0TVER3. 



163 



degrees. ^'^^len the plants have become sufficiently 
rooted, they should be planted out in the borders, and 
protected, if necessary, as before recommended. 

In planting, the roots should be placed full three inches 
beneath the surface of the soil, and they should be planted 
in a loamy soil, that is neither too poor nor too rich, as 
well as in a very exposed situation, and on no account 
beneath the shade of trees. After planting, they should 
be watered when necessary, and staked as soon as possible, 
as the succeedmg beauty of the plants depends much upon 
staking them sufficiently early. It will be safer to invert 
a flower-pot over each plant every night for two or three 
weeks after they are planted, to protect them at once from 
casual frosts, and from snails and slugs. They are very 
liable to be eaten by the latter, and should be examined 
frequently and with care. If large flowers are desired, 
the plants should be slightly pruned, always taking off" the 
shoots that are to be removed as soon as tliey appear, and 
not allowing them to grow to any size before they are 
detached. But, if a great abundance of flowers is wished 
for, no pruning will be necessary, and all the attention 
the plants will require, is to keep them properly secured 
to the stakes with garden matting, and hang a few small 
tubes on various parts of the plants for the purpose of 
catching earwigs, which are very destructive to the flowers. 
If the summer is very diy, a mulching of cow-dung may 
be placed round the base of the stems of the plants, 
which will keep the roots cool and moist. The roots 
should be taken from the soil on the first appearance of 
frost, having previously cut down the stems to within a 
few inches of the ground. They must be gradually and 
thoroughly dried, and after this has been properly 
effected, and all the soil carefully detached from them, 
each root should have a wooden label attached to it with 
wire, on which some mark should be made by which the 
grower will know what sorts they are, and their height 
and colour ; and they may then be placed away for the 
winter in a cellar or store-room, and kept as dry as possible 
by covering them with an abundance of dry straw, but 
not allomng the apartment to become too warm or they 
will either grow or shrivel. Dry sand is an excellent 



164 



PRACTICE OF GARDEKI^fG. 



medium in which to pack them for the winter. In -the 
spring they may be taken out for propagation, and other- 
wise treated as before directed, always takire c?.re to keep 
them perfectly diy during the winter, and a" - : : ; : - = r _ "e 
them effectually from frost, and keep the .= :r:^ f.:-::!.::. 

Heartseases or pansies ai'e no less interesting to the 
cottager than dahlias, and are equally within his means, 
while they occupy less room. They are nearly all of 
Tery easy culture ; but to have them fine, they require 
much attention. An increase is effected by see ;>, : .:- 
tings, or layers; by the former method, ne v - _ r ir^ 
may be obtained, and by the two latter, old s:r:^ are 
perpetuated. Many writers on the subject have entered 
into very lengthened details with regard to the cultiva- 
tion of these plants, but of course only a very brief out- 
line can be given here. Where new varieties are desired, 
the seed should be collected from the first-ripened pods 
of the best sorts, and sown thinly as soon as it is ripe, in 
a shaded situation and a light loamy soil. As soon as 
they have formed a few leaves, they should be trans- 
planted into a similar border or bed, at about four inches 
apart, when they may be afterwards treated as the old 
plants. To propagate the old varieties, some considera- 
tion is necessary as to whether they are strictly perennial, 
or only partially so, for those sorts which are purely 
perennial may be propagated with facility by cuttings, 
vvhile those which are not so, require to be multiplied 
by layers. Either of these methods may be practised at 
any time, but if done in the spiing months, or early in 
the autumn, the greatest success will be ensured. There 
is a method, however, of dividing the roots, which is 
much more certain than either of those just alluded to. 
The plants are taken from the soil in dull weather, rjid 
divided into as many portions as the roots vr:.^ 1' 
taking care to have a few root-fibres to each i" -::^: : 
they are then planted separately in a shady bor 'rr. : _i 
well watered till they have become settled in :1- Lrrr 
soil. This system is recommended when the plants grow 
too straggling, and, with those sorts which are capable of 
being thus treated, is doubtless the most efficacious mode 
of propagation. Those sorts which require layering, may 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 



165 



be subjected to this operation either late in the spring, 
or early in the autumn, and it is a very simple method, 
as all that is required is to lay down the young shoots 
into the soil, and make a slight incision at the joint 
which is buried deepest in the ground. They will soon 
strike root, and may then be carefully detached, and 
managed as the old plants. AYhere a great number of 
plants is required, the best method of obtaining these is 
by cuttings, which, in the jDerennial sorts, vrill strike very 
readily if properly managed. The advantage of this 
method is, that only the tops of the plants are taken off, 
and the base of the stems and roots will soon produce 
fresh shoots ; besides which, plants raised from cuttings, 
are generally superior in every respect to those obtained 
from division of the roots or layers. The best time for 
practising this metliod is said to be late in the spring, or 
early in the autumn, but not during the summer months. 
The cuttings should be taken from the extremities of the 
young shoots, and should be cut off just below the third 
or fourth joint from the top, removing the leaves fi^om 
the part that is to be inserted in the soil. They should 
be planted an inch or two apart in a sheltered border, 
and in a rather rich loamy soil that has been previously 
well watered, covering them with a hand-glass, and 
shading this with some thin material fur a few days after 
planting, if the sun should shine upon them. AVhen 
they are free from danger on this score, the hand-glass 
should be removed by degrees, to admit light and air ; 
and as soon as the cuttings are struck, they may be 
planted out in a similar situation, and treated as here- 
after directed. 

Heartseases require a rather rich loamy soil, but it is of 
much greater importance that they be not allowed to re- 
main in the same soil more than one year, as they are 
considered to be great deteriorators of the soil. On this 
account, also, cultivators never remove heartseases with 
balls of earth ; but, on the contrary, when they are trans- 
planted, the soil is taken from the roots, and these latter 
are carefully washed for the purpose of removing all the 
old soil which attaches itself to the roots. This is con- 
sidered of great importance by some; but it may be 



168 



PnACIICE OF GARDEXIXG. 



doubted vv-liether it is not, after all, a very unsafe and 
inexpedient practice. A cool and rather shaded situation 
is also recommended as most suitable, and therefore they 
should never be planted in a bed or border where they 
vrill be much exposed to the sun, which weakens the 
plants, and also the blooms, and causes the colours of the 
latter to sport. A rich moist soil will be preferable to 
much shade ; and care shotildbe taken to have the plants 
removed at such a season, that they get well estab- 
lished, and their roots amply protected by the branches 
and leaves, before ciry weather generally occurs. A 
small bed of heartseases, in which the sorts are well 
arranged according to their various colours, has a most 
interesting and imposing appearance when the whole 
are in flower ; and if the soil and situation are suitable 
it will present to the eye one dense mass of blossoms. 
Vrhen the shoots grow too high, or too stragiilmg. it is a 
good plan to place a little soil on the lower extremity of 
them, and slightly press them down to the earth, which 
will much invigorate them, and cause them to throw out 
new roots. 

Plan's in Pots. 

There is no class of plants which can be ctiltivated by 
the cottager, that is so injudiciously treated, or so badly 
grown, as those which come within the limits of this 
article ; and yet there is, perhaps, none which is more 
generally interesting. Nearly every person possessing a 
house of any description, appears emulous of obtaining 
and cultivating a few plants in pots ; but^ being very 
generally ignorant of the manner in which they should 
be managed, they are seldom seen in a healthy or 
flourishing condition, and still less frequently are they 
grown in the perfection to which they are capable of 
being brought by proper and judicious cultivation and 
management. Xor is this deficiency more attributable 
to ignorance than inattention or prejudice : for many 
persons consider that, if they place their plants in pots 
in some way or other, and keep them constantly watered, 
they cannot fail to thrive : but a more erroneous 
conclusion could not be possibly come to, for the 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 



167 



operation of potting, and the application of water, re-, 
quii^e to be conducted with the greatest possible nicety 
and discrimination, and it is chiefly to the improper 
manner in which these are performed, that all the ill- 
success in the cultivation of these plants may be as- 
cribed. In the following remarks, a general system of 
cultivation will be detailed, by which the poorest indi- 
vidual may be able to manage a number of these plants 
and which will also be found useful to persons of more 
ample means, vrho are neither possessed of a greenhouse, 
nor are able to employ a gardener. Previous to entering 
upon the subject of cultivation, it may be well to supply 
a brief list of such plants of this description as are 
adapted to the gardens and means of the persons for 
whom this little work is intended, arranging them only 
according to the time of flowering. 

SELECT LIST OF TENDER PLANTS, THAT REQUIRE TO 

BE GROWN IN POTS. 
Many species of Fig Marigold, or Meseriibi-yanlheriiur.i. Flowers 

at all seasons. Various colours. 
Many species of Heath, or Erica. FL at different seasons. Various 

colours. 

Japan Camellia, and varieties {Camellia Japonica, et var.). Fl. in 

March. Various colours. 
CoQical Fuchsia (i^wc^via co/iica). FI in May. Scarlet. 
Small-leaved Fuchsia (F. mycrophylla). Fl. in May. Crimson. 
G'obe Fuchsia {F. globosa). Fl. in May, Scarlet. 
Garden varieties of Geranium (Pelargoniums). Fl. in May. Various 

colours. 

Acute-leaved Alonsoa. (Alonsoa acutifolia). Fl. in May. Scarlet. 
Topl&rAesived CinevAviA ( Cineraria populifolia). Fl. in May. Purple, 
Peruvian Heliotrope {Hdiotr opium Per uvianurn). Fl. in May. Purple. 
Scarlet Fuchsia {Fuchsia c ccinea). Fl. in May. Scarlet. 
Slender Fuchsia {F. gracilis). Fl. in May. Scarlet. 
Many species and varieties of Fuchsia. Fl. in May and June. 
Various colours. 

Imbricated Fahiana {Fabiana irnhricata). Fl. in May and June. 
Wliite. 

Ivy-leaved Geranium {Pelargonium latenpes). Fl. from May to 
August. Pink. 

Many species and varieties of Cinerai^. Fl. in May. Various colours. 
Many species and varieties of Slipper- wort, or Calceolaria. Fl. in 

May. Various colours. 
Showy Cactus {Cactus speciosus). Fl. in May. Pink. 
Most showy Cactus (C. s-peciosissimus). Fl. in June. Crimson. 
Lemon-scented Aloysia {Aloysia citriodora). Fl. in June. Purple. 
Garden Hydrangea {Hydrangea hortensis). Fl. in June. Pink. 



168 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



Discoloured Begonia {Begonia discolor). Fl. in June. Pink. 
Sellow's Lantana {Lantana Sellowii). Fl, in June. Purple. 
Several species and varieties of Monkey-flower, or Mimulus. Fl. in 

July. Various colours., 
Many species of Cactus. Fl. in July. Various colours. 
Canary Balm of Gilead {Dracocephalum Canariense). Fl. in July, 

Pale purple. 

Entire-leaved Slipper-wort {Calceolaria integrifoUa). Fl.in August. 
Yellow. 

Many varieties of Lol>eUa. Fl. in July and August. Various 
colours. 

The Erinus {Lobelia Erinus, et var.). Fl. in June and September. 
Blue. 

Many varieties of Verbena. Fl. from July to October. Various 
colours. 

Many varieties of Petunia. Fl. from July to October; Various 
colours. 

Common Myrtle {Myrtus communis). Fl. in August. White. 

To this list many other beautiful plants might doubt- 
less be added ; but we presume those here enumerated 
will be sufficient for any person who does not possess 
a greenhouse ; and it should be observed, that in this, 
as well as in all preceding lists, the time of flowering that 
is stated, refers to the time the flowers commence ex- 
panding, and many of them continue flowering for 
several months. 

In cultivating plants in pots, a great diversity of treat- 
ment is required ; nevertheless, there are some general 
principles which apply to all, and which we shall here 
state ; after which a few of the more extensive and 
important tribes will be briefly treated of more par- 
ticularly. In the management of plants of this descrip- 
tion, one of the most important features is to allow them 
as much light as possible ; and, as a due proportion of 
this can never be obtained in the window of a dwelling- 
room, the plants will not thrive unless they are placed 
in the open air, as frequently as the weather will permit. 
Air is also requisite, but by no means so much so as 
light, though many gardeners mistakenly ascribe the 
effects of light to air. This is a popular error, and it 
should be borne in mind that the more light which can 
be afforded to most plants of this description, the 
larger, finer, and more numerous, will be the flowers 
they produce ; although, upon principles before stated, 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 



169 



they should not be much exposed to light during the 
time the flowers are expanded, as all flowers will con- 
tinue much longer w^hen partially shaded. During the 
flowering season, however, it must not be understood 
that these plants are to receive no light, but merely 
that they should be excluded from the bright rays of 
the sun, as they cannot be too much exposed to light, 
even at this period of their growth, when the sun is not 
shining. 

Equal in importance to exposing them fully to light, 
is the manner in which they are potted, and this is a 
subject which is too generally overlooked by cottagers 
and otliers, to the great injury of their plants. Judicious 
potting is an art in which few practical gardeners excel, or 
which they even conduct in a proper manner ; and it is not 
therefore surprising that uninitiated persons should be 
incapable of; performing it skilfully. Proper drainage is 
one of the ; prominent features in this operation, and 
instead of (as is usually done) only placing a single piece 
of tile, broken pot, or oyster-shell over the hole in the 
bottom of the pot, there should be at least an inch in 
depth of draining materials in the bottom of a moderate 
sized pot. A rounded (not flattened) oyster-shell, or a 
piece of tile of a similar construction, should be placed 
over the hole in the bottom of the pot, — taking care 
previously to wipe the inside of the pot perfectly clean, 
if it has been before used, — and over this oyster- 
shell a quantity of pieces of brick, cinders, tiles, or 
broken pots, about half an inch square, should be placed 
to the depth of half an inch, or an inch, breaking those 
at the top smaller than the bottom pieces. Previous to 
potting the plants, the soil should be prepared, and well 
incorporated, by frequently turning it over with a spade. 
It must be varied to suit the constitution of particular 
plants, but as this will be hereafter noticed, we shall not 
now allude to the quality of the soil, but merely state, 
that having previously prepared it, and also the pots 
for the reception of the plants, a little soil should be 
placed over the drainage materials in the bottom of the 
pots, to prevent the roots from resting on them, and 
the plant intended to be potted, may then be taken out 

Q 



170 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



of the old pot, which may be done by tapping the edge 
of the pot on a board or other solid material, having 
the fingers placed across the pot, with the stem of the 
plant between them, to receive it as it comes out of the 
pot. The drainage materials should then be carefully 
removed from the bottom of the old soil, and if the 
roots are very numerous, and much matted round the 
edge of the ball of soil, they may receive a few gentle 
taps with the hand to loosen them a little. If the ball 
of soil is very hard and firm, it will be better to remove 
the greater part of it with care, and place the plant 
entirely in fresh soil. 

In potting any plant, the pot in which it is to be 
placed should be just one size larger than the one pre- 
viously used, and the plant should be placed in the 
centre of the pot, and at such a depth as will allow the 
old ball of soil to be covered slightly with the fresh 
earth, so as to fill the pot to within half an inch or less 
of the top. The soil should be placed carefully around 
the old ball, and a small flat stick should be used for 
the purpose of pressing it down round the edges of the 
pot, so that there may be no cavities in which water can 
collect and injure the roots. When the pot is filled with 
soil, the bottom should be stmck flatly on a table or 
stone, which will have the effect of settling the soil 
about the roots, and reducing the surface of it to a 
level ; the plants may then be well watered from the 
fine rose of a small watering-pot, and slightly shaded, 
for a few days, till they have become established in the 
soil. These remarks apply only to such plants as are 
growing vigorously, and whose roots require to be shifted 
into larger pots for the purpose of extending themselves. 
But there will too frequently be found plants, which, 
from injudicious potting, and too large a supply of water, 
have been brought into such an unhealthy condition, 
that their roots, instead of extending themselves, have 
become contracted by disease. The cause of this may 
always be traced to the pots having been insufficiently 
drained, and watered too abundantly ; and when this 
is found to be the case, the plants should be taken from 
the pots, the soil carefully removed from their roots, 



ON EEARIXG FLOTTERS. 



171 



and potted into fresh soil in pots of a smaller size than 
those which they previously occupied. 

Whatever advantages may be derived from good pot- 
ting, these will be all counteracted if the plants are not 
watered attentively and cautiously ; as either too much 
or too little water would be highly injurious to them. 
The prevailing error in watering these plants, is to 
apply water to the whole collection at the same time, 
and in equal quantities, whether they require it or not; 
and, certainly, a system more calculated to injure or 
destroy all the plants that are subjected to such treat- 
ment cannot well be imagined. Indeed, where such a 
system is practised, (which is too generally the case,) 
instead of it being strange and unaccountable that the 
plants never thrive well, it is a matter of surprise that 
they exist at all, under such treatment. If a man, 
possessing a family of children of different ages, sizes, 
and capacities for receiving and digesting food, were 
to apportion a certain quantity of food to each of those 
children, and compel them all to eat the portion allotted 
to them, his conduct would be denounced as irrational 
and cruel, and the health of some of the children would 
suffer from an insufficient quantity of food, while that 
of others would be equally or much more injured, by 
receiving more than was necessary for them, or than 
they were able to digest. But, perhaps, the individual 
who denounced such a mode of proceeding, might pos- 
sess an equal number of plants, the habits of which 
might be still more diverse, and the circumstances in 
which they were placed might render such treatment 
much more prejudicial to them ; and yet such an 
individual would probably administer to them all an 
equal quantity of food, (water,) without considering that 
the results would be precisely the same as in the case 
of the children, and that such treatment must promote 
disease, and, perhaps, ultimately cause death. These 
cases bear the most perfect and striking analogy to 
each other ; and the inference naturally follows, that all 
plants, but more especially plants in pots, should be 
watered whenever they may require it, and only then. 
The best criterion for performing this operation is, when 



172 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



the surface of the soil in the pots appears dry, which, if 
the plants have been properly potted, may be safely 
depended upon. Saucers or flats should never be em- 
ployed for the purpose of containing water, as it is always 
best to apply water to the surface of the soil ; and when 
these are used for cleanliness, the water which drains 
through the pot into them should always be thrown 
away, as soon as it is perceived. If plants in pots are 
ever permitted to become too dry, the soil frequently 
separates itself from the edges of the pot, and it will be 
of no avail whatever to water the plant, until the soil 
is pressed closely down to the edges of the pot, as the 
water would escape through the cavity thus formed, 
without being of any advantage to the roots. If plants 
of this description are left out in the open air all night 
during the summer months, they will derive much 
benefit from the dews which fall at that season, and it 
will be useful to them occasionally to water them over 
the leaves and branches in the evening of a summer's 
day, or what is much better, to syringe them with 
water over the leaves and branches. This will tend to 
invigorate the plants, and also wash off any filth that 
may have accumulated on the leaves, which is highly 
injurious. Many plants which cannot be kept clean iu 
this manner, should have their leaves occasionally 
sponged with clean water. During winter, plants will 
need very little water indeed, especially as a wet state 
renders them more liable to be injured by frost. But 
when they are watered, it should be done so as to wet 
the entire mass of soil, and not merely the surface of 
it, or they will not be at all benefited by the appli- 
cation. 

The principles thus detailed are applicable to all kinds 
of plants of this description, but the treatment which 
some of the sorts require is so peculiar, that it will be 
necessary briefly to notice it here. Geraniums (or more 
properly pelargoniums) are such universal favourites, that 
they demand the first consideration, and the mode of 
treatment we are about to recommend for them, will, 
we are persuaded, be found to save much trouble, and 
be worthy of general adoption among the classes for 



ON REARING FLOWERS. 



173 



whom it is intended. These plants are usually kept in 
pots throughout the whole season ; and as few cottagers 
are enabled to purchase pots of a size sufficient to grow 
the plants to perfection in, they are but rarely seen 
producing their flowers so large and so abundantly as 
they would, if the roots were not too much confined, 
and had sufficient room to extend themselves. To 
obviate this evil, we propose that the plants should be 
turned out into the open border in the spring, after all 
danger from frost is over ; where, if the earth in the 
border is prepared for their reception, and is composed 
of light loamy soil, and a small portion of well-rotted 
manure, they will flower in great perfection during the 
summer months, and there will be no danger of their 
being injured by the bad potting or injudicious water- 
ing, to which they are liable when kept in pots. If it 
be urged that this system is only applicable to the 
common and inferior sorts, we reply, that it may be 
practised with advantage with all the sorts that can be 
procured by the classes for whom this is written. We 
have practised this system with the most perfect success, 
and have not the slightest doubt of its practical utility. 
Plants thus treated will grow in the richest luxuriance, 
and continue flowering during the whole of the summer. 
But, as they cannot be retained in this situation all the 
winter, it is obvious that some means must be devised 
for preserving them through this period, and these 
means we shall now detail. 

To take up the old plants, and place them in pots for 
the purpose of keeping them through the winter in a 
dwelling-room, would, besides greatly injuring them, re- 
quire as large, or even larger pots, than if they had been 
constantly kept in pots; besides which, as it is well 
known that young plants flower best, and occupy much 
less room, a quantity of cuttings should be struck early 
in the autumn, according to the duections given under 
the head of cuttings, in a former part of this little work ; 
and these, when rooted, should be potted into small 
pots, and kept as much as possible in the open air, pre- 
serving them in frosty weather in the window of a 
dwelling-room during the day, and in a somewhat more 

Q 2 



174 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



secure situation at night. In the spring they will be 
fit for planting again into the borders, and by this 
means a constant succession may be obtained, leaving 
the old plants to perish. If any are desired to be 
kept in pots after they have ceased flowering, their 
stems should be cut down to within an inch or two of 
the main stem, and the shoots made into cuttings. The 
old plants should then be repotted, and kept through 
the winter as before directed, taking care not to water 
them unless they require it, and never watering them 
over the leaves at this season. 

The same system of treatment may be advantageously 
adopted with heliotropes, alonsoas, fuchsias, shrubby 
calceolarias, and all other plants of similar habits, except 
that none of these require so much pruning as gera- 
niums, and they may be conveniently kept in pots 
throughout the whole season if desired, adding to the 
soil in which they are potted a little peat or heath-soil, 
and a small portion of white sand. The various species 
of heath, though very ornamental, require great care 
and attention to grow them successfully, and are not 
well adapted for cottage-gardens or windows. They 
must be potted in sandy peat, or heath-soil, with a slight 
addition of light sandy loam ; and some small pieces of 
soft grit-stone should be mingled with the soil to pro- 
mote drainage. They will not succeed well when turned 
out in the open border in the summer months, as the 
operation of removing them to pots in the autumn 
would injure them; they should therefore be kept in 
the window of a dwelling-room, and placed in the open 
air in the summer months, removing them to a shaded 
situation when the heat of the sun is very powerful. 
Great care and attention is necessary in watering them, 
as they are very liable to perish when supplied with too 
much or too little water. They are propagated with 
difficulty by cuttings, which are so extremely delicate, 
that few cottagers need attempt this operation, as they 
will seldom succeed without great attention. 

Camellias are much more ornamental than heaths, but, 
with the treatment which cottagers are enabled to afford 
them, they are very liable to shed their flowers when in 



ox REARING FLOTCRS. 



175 



the bud state, without ever expanding. This unfortunate 
circumstcince is caused, in a great measure, by the varia- 
tions of temperature to which they are subjected while 
the flower-buds are forming, and partly by either a lack 
or superfluity of water at this season. To obviate this 
it is necessary to pay particular attention to them after 
they have ceased flowering, and during the gro^.ving 
season, at which time the flower-buds are usually formed. 
As soon as their flowers have fallen, they should be 
potted into larger pots, as they may respectively require, 
in a compost consisting of one-half sandy loam, one- 
fourth peat or heath-soil, and the rest of well-rotted 
manure, or leaf-mould, and white sand. After being 
potted, they should be placed in the window of a 
dwelling-room, where a fire is usually ke'pt. and watered 
with great care, never allowing them to become too dry 
or too wet. As long as they continue growing, and 
until the flower-buds are properly formed, they should 
remain in the situation above alluded to, and never be 
removed to the open air. They should be allowed as 
much light as can be afforded them, without permitting 
the sun to shine directly upon them, which latter cir- 
cumstance should be avoided throughout the whole 
period of their growth, as camellias cannot endure the 
immediate mys of the sun without being injured. "When 
their growth is completed, and the flower-buds perfectly 
formed, the plants may be removed to the open air in a 
shaded (not exposed) situation, but they must be retained 
in the pots, and removed again to the Avindow of a 
dwelling-room upon the first appearance of frost. From 
this time till the period of flowering, particular attention 
should be paid to watering them carefully, and if this 
operation is properly and judiciously performed, they 
will never shed theii' flowers, unless they are allowed to 
be injured by frost, or too severe cold. Throughout the 
growing season, the leaves and branches should be 
frequently sprinkled or syringed with water, and the 
leaves should also be sponged as often as dust or filth, 
accumulates on them. The best mode of propagating 
them is by inarching, which must be performed by an 
experienced gardener. Some of the common sorts are 



176 



PEACTICE OF GAEDEInIXCt. 



considered almost hardj, but they seldom flower well in 
the open gimmd. 

The Begonia discolor or Evansiana is frequently grown 
in cottage windows, where it is a most delightful orna- 
ment. Its treatment is very simple, though peculiar, as 
it requires to be kept in a perfectly dormant state 
through the winter. As soon as the stem and leaves 
begin to decay, water should be withheld, and the pot 
containing the plant should be placed in a dry cupboard, 
where it will be secure from frost. Early in the spring 
the plants should be taken from their winter-quarters, 
and re-potted into a rich loamy soil : after which, they 
must be most liberally watered, as this plant requires a 
large supply of this element. The practice of watering 
this plant by allowing it to draw up moisture from a 
saucer or flat, is not a good one, and it is much better to 
supply it with water by applying it to the surface of the 
soil. After flowering, watering should be gradually 
suspended, and the plant treated as before recommended. 

The various species of monkey -flower require to be kept 
in pots through the winter season, but they may be planted 
out in the open border in the summer months, where they 
will grow much more vigorously, and flower in greater 
perfection. The mode of propagation is, simply to place 
a little soil on the younger shoots, which will speedily 
form roots, and may then be removed into pots in any 
rich soil. During the winter months, they should have 
as much air and light as possible, but especially the 
latter, and they must be watered with great caution, 
taking care never to wet the leaves, or to allow them to 
become wet from any cause, which would occasion the 
whole plant to rot. When all danger from frost is over, 
they may be planted out in the open borders, to rem am 
there all the summer, and again be propagated in a 
similar manner in the autumn. These remarks apply 
equally well to the beautiful Scarlet Vervain {Ttvltna 
melindres,) the species and varieties of Petunia^ and 
others which are not so perfectly hardy ; except that the 
latter are not so easily increased, and must generally be 
propagated by cuttings of the young shoots, taken ofl" 
early in the autumn. The same care is necessaiy in pre- 



ON REARIXG FLOWERS. 



177 



serving them from damp, and exposing tliem as much as 
possible to light, which latter is of first importance, as in 
the absence of a due degree of light, such plants are 
rendered more susceptible of injury from cold and damp. 
They do not require any artificial heat, but merely to be 
effectually secured from frost, and, except in very severe 
weather, the window of a dwelling-room is not so good a 
situation for them as that of a bed-room, or other cooler 
apartment ; for when placed in too warm a room they 
grow too rapidly, and, consequently, in too weak and 
slender a manner. The musk plant, though a species of 
Mi'inulus, is quite hardy, and will thrive in any mode- 
rately good and moist garden soil. If grown in pots, it 
need not be protected in winter. The pots should, how- 
ever, be plunged in the ground at that season up to the rim. 

Hydrangeas are of very easy culture, and may even be 
grown in the open air, but, when kept in pots, they are 
highly ornamental. Cuttings of the young shoots will 
strike under a hand-glass, if taken off in the month of 
May, and planted in a light sandy soil ; but if a little 
artificial heat is at command, they will succeed much 
better. As soon as they are rooted, they should be 
potted singly into small well-drained pots, and kept in a 
shaded situation till they are well established, after 
which, they may be removed to a place where they will 
be fully exposed to the sun, and repotted when they 
require it, into larger pots. The soil most suitable for 
them is maiden loam taken from a field or common, 
enriched by leaf-soil or well-rotted manure ; and during 
the whole period of their gi'owth, if they are judiciously 
potted, it will be almost impossible to give them too 
much water, as, in hot weather, they will frequently re- 
quire watering three times in a day. If well exposed to 
the sun during the autumnal months, they may be kept 
through the winter in cellars, with little or no water ; but 
they must be taken from this situation early in the 
spring, and after being potted into pots of such a size as 
the plants may require, removing as much of the old 
earth as possible without injuring the roots, they should 
be placed in the window of a dwelling-room, and be well 
supplied with water at the roots, the leaves and branches 



17S 



PRACTICE OF GAEDE^ONG. 



being also freuiienily sprinkled \vitli it. With old plants, 

all the shoots shoiihl be cleared away as soon as they 
commence gro^^ing. except four or six of the sti-cnc-;— t, 
vrhich ^vih c?.i:=e them to fiovrer in mnch gi^eater rer- 
fection. and ah:o render the colours of the flowers 
much richer and mere brilliant. 

Succulent plants, such as the various species of Cadu?, 
and others which resemVde tbemin appearance and habit, 
are very interestirg, and bv no means ciiflicult ta' culti- 
vate, thriugh in C':a-ace cibltctions they rarely hcwtr in 
perfection : a a; a; n : > :lm:-t en-irelv ■i—in, to the 
insuzijicnay ::b^ ';:b a___ba : 7; u^ ^ayabrh TVe 
shall U'l't here d-:a:lt:ir m^-ans amph yed i^'C a a :y aaating 
these plants, bu: merely state that they may be multi- 
phed by gr^Jtiag. l:y cutriags, and by seeds: but arti- 
ficial heat is almC'St essential to ensure success in this 
operatiLm. therefore they cannot be readiiy increased by 
the classes far wh'jm these direction? are written. ?:;1 
is an important r'articular in their cultivation, and this 
should be composed of one-half light sandy loam, one- 
fourth of leaf-mould, or other light rich soil, and the 
remaining fourth C'f lime rub:a?b ';-v aan fine, and white 
or river sand. The piani? sa .uld'm a rated after they 
have ceased flewering. or af;er the time at which they 
ought to have elowered. in a compost of the abov- dema:p- 
tion, and in pots of a rather small size, as many ef rhem 
have but fe'v roots. They should be well supplieel with 
veater while they are in a grovring state, beth at the roots 
and over the leaves or stems, and keat in the vrindow of 
a dwehing-room till they have ceased gae-vrinz. always 
atfjrdmg them as much light as possible, ^Vhen the 
growii:a" season is over they sbould be removed to the 
open air, in an exposed situatiou, aad only alle^ved a 
snakcient auantity ck water to prevent them k^em skrivel- 
liag. In tais situition they should be kept till freaty 
nights C'Ccur. when they may be taken to the wiudow of 
a dwrlling-room. anel retained there during the vbuter, 
I'lacmg them in the open air in favourable weather, ead 
watering them with the greatest possible caution. Early 
in the spring, tke soil in the pots may be slightly stirred 
ou the surface with a fork, and a little fresh soil added ; 



O:^ EEARIXG TLOWERS. 



179 



after this, the plants should be rather more liberally- 
watered, and where they have been properly exposed to 
light during the summer months, they will almost invari- 
ably'flower. They should be repotted as soon as the flowers 
Lave faded, and otherwise treated as before directed. 

The various species of fig-marigold will thrive well if 
planted out in an exposed border during the summer 
months, and taken up and potted again in the autumn ; 
or, the pots in which they are growing may be plunged 
in the soil of a bed or border in the open ground, 
removing them to a dwelling-room on the approach of 
winter. 

Balsams, cockscombs, and other tender annual plants, 
may be grown successfully in pots, if desired, and, with 
a little attention, will be highly interesting and orna- 
mental. They may be sown in pots or boxes of loamy 
soil, which may be kept in the window of a dwelling- 
room, but will succeed better if a little dung heat can be 
procured, and covered with a hand-glass or frame. As 
soon as the young plants have formed two leaves besides 
the seed leaves, they should be potted into small pots 
in a rich loamy soil, and either one, two, or three plants 
may be placed in each pot, according as the individual 
may possess room to place the pots in a light situation. 
Any tender annuals, besides balsams or cockscombs, may 
be planted three in a pot, and all the attention they will 
afterwards require is to be shifted into larger pots and 
liberally watered. Balsams, however, and cockscombs', 
should be planted singly into small pots, and they will 
rec|uire to be very frequently potted into larger pots, 
using pots of only one size larger at each shift, and never 
pottiDg them into large pots at once, as is frequently 
done for the purpose of saving trouble. They reqoii^e to 
ba kept as near as possible to the light ; and where only 
side light is afforded, they should be frequently turned 
to prevent them from growing deformed and unsightly. 
They also require to be largely supplied with water, and 
in fine weather they should be exposed to the open air ; 
water should be applied over the leaves and branches, as 
well as to the roots, but the former of these operations 
must always be performed in the evening of the day. 



180 



PRACTICE OF GARDENII^G. 



Bulbs, such as some species of amaryllis, that require 
to be grown in pots, may be treated as has been before 
recommended for hyacinths, except that they must be 
allowed to commence growing naturally, and not be stimu- 
lated by being plunged into some light soil. They must 
be abundantly watered during the growing and flowering 
season, but the quantity of water applied to them should 
be gradually diminished after their flowers have faded, 
ultimately withholding it entirely, and removing the bulbs 
from the soil, to be kept dry till the autumn, when they 
must be again planted. If the bulbs are not thus annually 
removed from the soil, and the offsets detached, they will 
never flower in perfection, and frequently will not flower 
at all. 

A good deal of variety and pleasure may be created by 
suspending one or two potted plants, of trailing habits, 
from the ceiling of a living-room, near the window. The 
Saxifraga oppositifolia, with its pendulous runners, on 
which are numerous tufts of leaves and roots, is both 
curious and beautiful, and singularly adapted for such 
treatment. The ivy -leaved geranium is equally charac- 
teristic and good. Several of the fig-marigolds, with 
slender drooping stems, will likewise look well in such a 
position. Any low-growing climber, if left untrained, will 
be singularly effective ; and the pretty trailing verbenas 
will appear quite at home. The last plant we shall men- 
tion, and one of the best for the purpose, is the elegant 
little ivy-leaved toadflax, (Linaria Cymbalaria,) often 
found on old walls and ruins, but fully worthy of cultiva- 
tion, as it is nearly always in bloom. 

Having thus briefly stated a few of the principles upon 
which the successful cultivation of most flowers that re- 
quire to be kept in pots, and to which a glass structure is 
not essential, depends, it only remains to observe, that the 
window of a room in which plants are kept, should always, 
if possible, face the south, south-east, or south-west, and 
the nearer its aspect approaches to these points, the 
greater success will be attained in the cultivation of any 
plant. It is also necessary to remark, that, when plants 
in pots are placed in the open air, there should always 
be some boards, slates, tiles, coal-ashes, or other similar 



GARDENING S0CTETIE3. 



181 



materials, placed beneath, the pots, to prevent worms from 
entering them, or the holes in the bottom of them being 
clogged up with soil For this reason a small wooden 
stage is of gi-eat advantage, and, whenever it can be pro- 
cm'ed, should always be made use of for this purpose, 
pai'ticularly as it is well calculated to exhibit the flowers 
to the gi'eatesfc advantage. Such a stage, however, when 
employed, should never be placed exactly facing the south, 
not only on account of preserving the plants much longer 
in flower, but also because the heat of the sun would 
penetrate the pots, and greatly injure the roots. A south- 
west aspect is therefore far preferable, at least during the 
summer months ; and when the plants are watered, it 
will be an advantage to them to wet the pots as well as 
the soil, in very hot weather. 

IV.— GAFcDEXIXG SOCIETIES. 

Mr. Meuteath strongly advocates the formation of dis- 
trict societies, to promote a taste for gardening among 
cottagers and mechanics, awarding prizes of seeds, imple- 
ments, and the lihe, to the most successful cultivators. 
Such societies have been formed in many counties, and 
are now pretty numerous, but by no means so general as 
they might and should be. Xothing could be more 
desirable than the extension of such societies, as the 
moral influence which they exercise over the individuals 
forming them can scarcely be conceived unless it has been 
"witnessed. In connexion with the allotment system, they 
furnish the most admirable means of moral renovation. 

Xot only are habits of industry and sobriety thus formed 
and cherished, but, as a consequence from these, unity, 
happiness, and comfort, are introduced into the domestic 
circle ; sociality of disposition, and genuine kindness of 
heart are engendered : and the cottagers of Britain attain 
to that state of moral culture which the wealthier classes 
cannot but admire, and of domestic peace which many of 
them might envy. We earnestly recommend all those 
who are desirous of promoting such a state of things, to 
further with their sanction and support the formation of 
Gardening Societies. 



182 



CALENDAR OF GARDEN WORK. 



D. CALENDAR OF GARDEN WORK. 



It may be proper to remark that the times to be now 
stated for sowing and other processes, are averaged chieflv 
for the north of England and the south of Scoth^nd, and 
must be modified also according to circumstances or situa- 
tion. In a low situation, for instance, on the side of a 
liver, vegetation will usually be a week or more later than 
on a slope above it facing the south-west. 

I.— JANUARY. 

Though continued frost is rather an exception than the 
usual rule of our climate, we have now more frost than in 
any other month ; and the old saying is quite correct^ 
that as the day begins to lengthen the frost begins to 
strengthen;" — at least so far as this month is concerned. 
1. — Kitchen Ga/rden. 

Trench vacant ground in open weather, and throw it 
into ridges neatly by line. "When frost sets in, if it be very 
severe, cover with straw, fern, or long dung, parsley, winter 
lettuces, and the ground over rhubarb. Destroy any slugs 
or snails which are observed : — one killed now will prevent 
the breeding of a dozen or two in spring. 

In open weather, sow Bath, black seeded gotte, and cab- 
bage lettuce ; horn carrots, radishes, and Flanders spinach, 
may also be sown, though at the risk of losing them, if 
they be not well protected with straw. Also mazagan and 
longpod beans. Plant out early York cabbages to succeed 
those of the October planting. 

2.— Fruit, 

Scare birds from picking the fruit-buds; and search for 
the eggs of insects, particularly those small grey patches 
which encircle the branches of apple and other trees, all of 
which contain the rudiments of swarms of insects, and 
which, if now destroyed, will save much trouble, as well as 
much injury to the trees, in the ensuing spring. If orna- 
mental and fruit trees and shrubs have not been previously 
pruned, this operation should now be performed, and the 
mildest days should be selected for this purpose. They 
should also be trained, if necessary, at the same time. 



FEBRUARY. 



183 



8. — Flowers. 

Tulips and other bulbs, on coming through the ground, 
ought to be sheltered^ in very severe weather, with the 
same materials which are recommended for parsley, &c. in 
the preceding page. Any other border flowers that 
require shelter, should be treated in the same manner, 
though this precaution is seldom necessary. 

Do not give much water to plants in pots, and especially 
avoid wetting the leaves. They should be closely housed 
at this season, but must be kept as near as possible to the 
light during the day. 

II.— FEBRUARY. 
Rather more than one third of the nights in this month 
are usually frosty; but the average heat of the weather is 
two degrees higher than that of last month, and would be 
more, were the sky more cloudy. 

1. — Kitchen Garden. 
In open weather, early potatoes, such as the ash-leaved 
kidney, cut with single eyes, may be planted, though at the 
risk of losing them if not carefully protected with hoops 
and mats, or straw ; but radishes, which may be sown 
over, and round spinach between, the potato drills, will 
endure severer weather and come in early. About the 
middle of the month, sow the first crops of savoys, leeks, 
onions, and lettuce, peas, beans, horn-carrots, and early 
York and Vanack cabbages for succession. Winter let- 
tuces may be thinned out, and cabbages, potato-onions, 
chives, shallots, and horse-radish, planted. 

2. — Fruits. 

Grafting may be begun about the end of the month. In 
the south, the young shoots of vines, which are produced 
near the base of the stem, may be laid down into the 
soil ; and if they are slightly twisted so as to crack the bark, 
they -^dll form good roots during the following summer. 

3. — Flowers. 

Clear ofP, in every fine day, the mats or straw used to 
protect tulips and other flower-roots. It is still rather 
early to sow any but the hardier annuals, except in well- 



184 



CALE^'DA^l OF GARDEN WOEK. 



sheltered borders, or iu pans in the window of a dwelling- 
room. Plants in pots should have a few hours of sunshine 
out of doors each day when the weather will permit. 
Auriculas and a few other potted plants should have an 
inch or two of the old earth taken from the surface, and 
some fresh soil substituted for it. 

III.— MARCH. 

The average heat of the v> eather rises six degrees this 
month, and it is besides usually dry : an excellent order- 
ing of Providence for seed-sowing ; for, according to the 
old proverb, foimded on correct experience, " a bushel of 
March dust is worth a king's ransom." The milder days 
are best for sowing. 

1. — Kitchen Garden, 

Before sowing, dig carefully, and make the ground level, 
even, and fine ; and after sowing, scare sparrows and chaf- 
finches. Main crops may be sown soon in the month, such 
as early longpod beans, peas, onions, leeks, parsley, celery, 
carrots, parsneps, cabbages, savoys, Dutch turnips, and 
indeed most other vegetables, as ah'eady directed. Mus- 
tard, cress, lettuce, spinach, and radishes, may be sown 
every week, or fortnight, for succession, and some mus- 
tard for seed. Sow New Zealand spinach in a pot in-doors. 
Chives, shallots, and garlic, may be planted, as well as 
small onions grown under trees last season, and large 
ones for seed ; plant rhubarb, potatoes, and Jerusalem 
artichokes. Cuttings or slips of sweet herbs may be 
planted. Transplant cabbage and lettuce. 

2.—Fndt8. 

This is the main season for grafting ; and towards the end 
of the month for layering. Trees may also be transplanted 
now, but, for most sorts, November is the best month 
for performing this operation. Dress strawberr}^ beds, 
and, if not done in autumn, plant new beds, if required. 

S.— Flowers. 

Sow polyanthus and primrose seed early in the month, 
and, if the weather is mild, sow hardy annuals, such as 
adonis, alyssum, prince's-feather, love-lies-bleeding, snap- 
dragon, yellow balsam, candy-tuft, catchfly, small blue 



APRIL. 



185 



convolvulus, devil-iu-a-bush, hawk-weed, Indian pink, lark- 
spur, lavatera, mignonette, moonwort, nasturtiums, pansy 
or heartsease, sweet pea, persicaria, scabious, sunflowei'S, 
strawberry-blite, ten-weeks'-stocks, sweet-sultan, Venus'- 
navel-wort, &c. Autumnal flowering bulbs, as meadow- 
saffron and tiger-flower, may be planted, if they have been 
taken from the ground. Balsams, China-asters, marvel 
of Peru, and purple convolvulus, may be sown in pans in 
doors, but will succeed better if sown in a hot-bed. 

IV.— APRIL 

The heat of the weather rises on an average about six 
degrees in this month, though half a dozen or more frosty 
nights usually occur. Although it rains in general very 
often, a circumstance useful for the young crops sown 
in February and March, evaporation is very greatly in- 
creased, and the ground in consequence becomes rather 
drier than wetter. 

1 . — Kitchen Ga / -de n . 
Flat-hoe and stake the first-sown peas ; and when the 
weather continues very dry, water the first-sown seed- 
beds. The kinds of seed mentioned last month, if they 
have been neglected to be sown, must be sown the first 
week. Besides beets, broccoli, particularly Cape broccoli, 
Brussels sprouts, kale, German greens and savoys for win- 
ter, succession crops should also be sown of salads, &c., 
every second week. A full crop of potatoes may be planted 
towards the beginning of the month, and kidney-beans, par- 
ticularly scarlet-runners, both seeds and roots, saved from 
last year. Prick out celery and lettuce, and sow more. 
Plant Savoys and Vanack cabbage-stumps for sprouts. 
Hoe and weed carefully where necessary, " for ill weeds 
wax weel," and do much iujury. Divide and plant out sweet 
lierbs. Water newly-planted things in dry weather. 

2.— Fruits. 

Insects, which are about this time hatched from eggs 
firmly glued to trees, &c., though absurdly supposed to be 
generated by what are called blighting winds, must now be 
destroyed in their infancy by hand-picking, particularly on 
currant-trees. Choice trees may be protected as they show 

R 2 



CALENPAn OF GARDEN ^^'OKK. 



blossom, from the bleak winds^, by netting, thick canvas, 
vie. : such materials should always be moved, however, on 
mild days. The thinnest gauze net is quite sufficient, 

3. — Flou't'-'S. 

Towards the end of the month, divide the roots of he- 
paticas. Sow seed of Bromoton stocks, tiger-flower, and 
annuals, to succeed those sown in March. Sow also bien- 
nials. Plants in pots should now be kept as much out of 
doors as the weather will permit. Be careful to destroy 
the green-liy on the rose-trees by washing with tobacco- 
tea, and the worm in the bud " by hand-picking. 

v.— MAY. 

The air is nearly in its dries: state this month : and 
though the weather is becoming gTadually warmer, some 
severe frosty nights occasioDally occur, and do great in- 
jury. The approach cf these should be watched at niglu- 
fall or bed-time, and due protection given vrhere wanted. 
In the mornings, thaw on:' hoar-frost by a slight watering, 
to supply the heat, which otherwise would be drawn 
from the plants if thawed by the sun. 

l.—Kit:Jccn Oard'^n. 
Hoe mid stake peas; hoe beans and early potatoes; 
p:rick or plant out cabbages, lettuce, celery, and other 
crops which require this trearmcut, Successiv-n crops of 
most vegetables may also be sown, and a full potato and 
scarlet-runner crop planted, if not done last month. Sow 
endive and broccoli. iHoehig. thiimiug out. and weeding, 
must also be attentively performed, particuhirly with car- 
rots, parsneps. and ODions, or they will never grow fine. 
Watch caiefuUy at night, as well as early in the morning, 
snails and slugs on young lettuces, cabbages, scarlet- 
runners, oIC. 

2.— Fruits. 

Insects will now require to be very carefully attended 
to. otherwise the entire crop may be destroyed by them. 
Every leaf that is observed witii holes in it. or gnawed, or 
puckered, should be examined, as well as the branch on 
which it grows, where the depredators often lurk while 
n 1 f e e d in g , s u ch a s t h e m a g p ie c a t e rp i 1 la r s of c u r r a n t -t r e e s . 



JUXE. 



187 



3. — Flovjtrs. 



Turn geraniums, fuchsias, verbenas, hydrangeas, and 
other similar plants, out into the borders about the end of 
the month, v^'here they will grow much finer than in the 
pots. Weed and thin annuals and other seedlings; and 
prick out or transplant others that may rec^uire it. Suc- 
cessive sowings may also still be made ; and at the begin- 
ning of the month tender sorts may be removed to the 
open air, though it will be much better to wait till the 
end of the month. Destroy insects on rose-trees. 



This is the driest though not the warmest month in the 
year, for towards the beginning there is usually some cold 
vreather, particularly at night ; but towards the end of the 
month the heat of the weather does not vary so much. 



Watering must now be attended to in dry weather in the 
evenings, or very early in the mornings, or both, for too 
much water at this season can seldom be given to freshly- 
planted crops. Weeding and thinning out are also of the 
first importance, as well as hoeing, particularly with pota- 
toes, cabbages, and peas. Celery, endive, leeks, Savoys, 
broccoli, and Xew Zealand spinach, ought to be planted 
out, and fine plants of curled parsley, and curled cress, for 
seed. The chief sowings for full crops are endive, Swedish 
or Aberdeen yellow turnips, repeating the sowing, if 
destroyed by the insects called jumpers ; also scarlet-run- 
ners, after watering the ground ; sow some early York 
and sugar-loaf cabbages in the first and again in the third 
week. Where the early potatoes come ofi", plant Vanack 
cabbages for collards or lettuce. Stake scarlet-runners 
and peas. Clear the beans and spinach of the black 
dolphin, and cabbages of the grey aphis, by picking off 
the parts affected. 



I Place netting over the currants and cherries to keep off 
the birds. When the weather is dry, water the trees 
planted in autumn or spring, as all their roots are not yet 
accommodated to their new situation. Strawberries, more 



VI.— JUXE. 



1 . — Kiicltc n Ga rdt n . 




2. — Fruits. 



188 



CALENDAR OF GARDEN WORK. 



particularly, require an abundant supply of water ; the 
flower stems of the alpine sort should be cut ofiP. Insects 
and slugs must be carefully destroyed as already directed. 

S.—Floivers. 

Tall flowers should be neatly supported with stakes to 
prevent their being broken. Ranunculuses in flower should 
be shaded. Carnations should be top-dressed, and, when 
coming into flower, should be shaded. Earwigs are now 
the most troublesome insects^ and are readily entrapped 
in lobsters' claws stuck upon sticks, or in hollow canes. 
Bulbs which have ceased flowering and have their leaves 
faded, should now be taken up. Annuals may be thinned 
out, and the thinnings transplanted' into vacancies in the 
borders. Hydrangeas, African lilies, and forget-me-nots, 
in pots, require water twice a-day, 

VII.— JULY. 

The dry weather of June usually gives place, towards 
the middle of the present month, to a good deal of rain, 
which may, as in the East, be called the latter rain." 
Hand-watering, of course, is in such circumstances no 
longer necessary in the open ground, though plants in 
pots, owing to the heat of the weather drying up their 
moisture quickly, require to be freely watered, 

1. — Kitchen Garden. 
When the early potatoes come ofi*, sow turnips in the 
ground, treading in the seed slightly with the feet. Or, 
plant in trenches in this ground some rows of celery and 
leeks, and also Savoys, German greens, and Yanack cab- 
bages, for collards, to come in early in winter. Scarlet- 
runners and French beans may still be sown in the two 
first weeks for a late crop ; and early York, Yanack sugar- 
loaf, and dwarf cabbages in the first and in the last week 
to be planted out before winter or early in the spring ; 
also endive, turnip-radishes, lettuces, and spinach for a 
late autumnal crop. Take up potato-onions, and shallots, 
and cut sweet herbs, when in flower, to dry in the shade 
for winter. Prick out celery and the first crop of endive. 
Grub up weeds to prevent them seeding. 



AUGUST. 



189 



2. — Fruits. 

Grub up suckers at the roots of currants, gooseberries, 
and lilacs. Destroy insects, and scare off birds from the 
ripening fruit. Alpine strawberries must be watered 
when necessary. 

3. — Flowers. 

Ranunculuses, out of flower, may be taken up ; and 
any bulbs not taken up last month. Sweet- Williams, 
carnations, and pinks, may be struck by pipings or layers; 
and the roots of polyanthuses, double primroses, and 
auriculas, may be divided and planted in the last week. 
Biennial and perennial seedliDgs, sown in March, may be 
planted out. Cuttings of geraniums, &c., may be struck 
about the end of the month, to stand the winter. 

VIII.— AUGUST. 
The warm nights, which now occur in consequence of 
the heat imbibed last month being evaporated from the 
ground, render the w-eather uniformly w^armer than in 
July, though the days are shortening. There is also more 
dry weather now, and watering, therefore, becomes 
important, wherever it may be required. 

1. — Kitchen Garden. 

The seeds of onions, or of any other vegetables which 
are ripe, should be gathered, dried, and cleaned, pre- 
paratory to their being placed in paper in a dry situation, 
till they are required for sowing. The bulbs of onions 
should also be ^taken up as soon as the leaves are 
withered, and stored in a dry shed for wdnter use. AVelsh 
onions, for use in spring, may now be sown, and York 
and Vanack cabbages about the ninth, or, in the neighbour- 
liood of London, as near as possible to the twenty-fifth of 
this month. Hoe and thin out turnips, and sow more, 
as well as radishes, lettuce, mustard and cress, and, in 
the first or second week, narrow-leaved or rather Flanders 
broad-leaved spinach. Begin to earth up the first-planted 
celery and leeks, and plant out some more to come in 
later. Sow, as in last month, and for the last time, some 
seed of white turnips, Spanish and turnip radishes, and 
plant out Savoys and imperial or Yanack cabbages of the 



190 



CALENDAR OF GARDEN WORK. 



June sowing, for collards. Broccoli must be planted for 
spring, and well and frequently watered. Search for and 
destroy insects, particularly caterpillars. 

%— Fruit, 

Late-bearing strawberries should be watered, and 
towards the middle or end of the month, the larger 
offsets may be planted out, if not before pricked out and 
nursed ; bud-grafting, w^hen the bark rises well, may be 
performed. To preserve the fruit of gooseberries and 
strawberries, the later sorts should be shaded with mats. 

'^.—Flowers. 

Sow auricula and polyanthus seed in pots, to be kept 
protected in winter. The roots of auriculas may now be 
divided, as also may those of sweet violets, the former to 
be potted into small pots, and the latter to be planted 
where desired. Cuttings of geraniums, and other tender 
plants, which have struck root, should now be placed 
singly into small pots, to be kept through the winter 
season in the house. Take up anemone roots. 

IX.— SEPTEMBER. 
Though the weather is usually fine this month, it be- 
comes sensibly colder ; and more so about sun-rise and 
in the day-time than £it night. Watering will seldom now 
be necessary, except with plants in pots. 

1. — Kitchen Qarden, 
Endive and lettuce may be planted out on beds sloping 
to the south-west, and trenched round to drain off water. 
Cabbage for collards in November, Savoys, and German 
greens, may be planted out early in the month, though 
it becomes rather late, as well as for sowing lettuce; but 
radishes, mustard, and cress, may be sown every fort- 
night. Hoe and clear the ground about turnips, and prick 
out the August-sown cabbage-plants early in the month, 
to be afterwards planted out in October. 

2. — Fruits. 

In the first and second week, plant strawberries, taking 
up and throwing away the old stools, whether mule or 
barren, and those which have twice borne fruit; the beds 



OCTOBER. 



191 



may now be slightly top-dressed with a light rich soil. 
Destroy w^asps, earwigs, and slugs. 

3. — Floiuers. 

Carnations and pinks, which have been struck from 
pipings or layers, may be planted out, if rooted, either in 
l)ots or in the open ground. Plant bulbs : monthly roses 
may now be increased by cuttings, and other roses and 
sweet-briar by Jayers. If old plants of roses are cut down 
to an inch from the ground, they will sometimes send up 
shoots, which may blow towards Christmas if kept in- 
doors, or otherwise sheltered, and even in the open ground 
if the season be mild. Sow tall larkspurs, Adonis, and 
other hardy annuals, to stand the winter. 

X.-OCTOBER. 

Moisture and cold now increase rapidly ; and cold 
nights, not unusually frosty, particularly near London, 
about the tenth, announce the approach of winter. 

1. — Kitchen Garden. 
Peas and mazagan beans, for an early crop, may be 
sown in an exposed (not a sheltered) situation, to render 
them hardy, and more capable of enduring severe weather 
in the winter ; but they are often destroyed when sown 
at this season, if they are not amply protected through 
the winter months. Horse-radish may now be planted, 
and also lettuce and endive, as directed last month, while 
full-grown plants may be tied up to blanch. Earth up 
celery in dry weather, and hoe Savoys, leeks, &c. Trans- 
plant the cabbages of the August sowing, and any other 
greens the planting of which has been neglected last 
month. Cut off the tops of parsley to make it sprout 
new leaves, and when the weather is very severe, protect 
them with straw or other light and dry material. 

^.—Fruits, 

Plant cuttings of gooseberry, currant, &c., and the old 
trees, as well as most other fruit trees, may be pruned 
when the leaves fall, though perhaps it is better to defer 
this operation till the month of January ; young trees 
may also be transplanted, taking care to water them if 
the weather be dry. 



192 



CALENDAR OF GARDEN WORK. 



3. — Floivers. 

Plant the dry roots of auemoues and ranunculuses, and 
the bulbs of hyacinths, crocuses, and tulips, if not done 
before ; and, in pots, Guernsey and bella-donna lilies to 
flower next year. Dahlia roots should have their crowns 
protected from sudden frost, by four inches of leaves or 
tanner's bark. Protect layers and young plants of carna- 
tions from frost and too much wet. Potted plants must 
always be taken in-doors at night, and also during the day 
in cold Yveather. 

XI.— NOVEMBER. 

The increasing moisture in the air, and the greater 
degree of cold, render fogs frequent ; and at night parti- 
cularly, the growth of most plants receives a considerable 
check, though, so long as sharp frosts hold off, the hardier 
sorts make a little progress. 

1. — Kitchen Garden. 

Plant rhubarb in rows, and cabbage-stumps for sprouts 
in spring, or seed in summer. Early peas may be sown 
at the hazard of losing them : the success of beans is more 
probable. Dig up vacant ground as roughly as possible, 
or lay it in rough ridges. Endive and lettuce may now 
be blanched. Take up roots of scarlet-runners, and keep 
them in sand. 

%— Fruits. 

Prune cherry, plum, gooseberry, and currant treesj and 
dig in some good well-rotted manure about their roots. 
Cut down the old stems of raspberries, and shorten the 
young ones if necessary. Plant every description of fruit- 
tree early in the month. 

^.—Flowers. 

Take up dahlia and marvel-of-Peru roots, and preserve 
them through the winter in a dry situation. Plants in 
pots ought to be set out of doors in the milder days, but 
always taken in at night. Keep them rather dry than 
moist, as any superabundance of moisture at this season 
is very injurious to them. This is the great season for 
planting shrubs and trees. 



SUCCESSION OF CROPS. 



193 



XIL— LECEMBEE. 

The cold becomes gradually greater, particularly at 
night, and vegetation is consequently rendered nearly 
torpid. 

1. — Kitcuen Garden. 
When the peas or beans sown in the previous months 
begin to appear above the ground, throw over them a 
slight covering of earth ; or, if they have escaped atten- 
tion till too high for this, draw earth close up around 
the plants with the hoe. Everything likely to suffer 
from the frost, such as young cabbages sown late for 
spring planting, ought to be well protected with mats 
when they can be had, and when not, with straw, fern 
leaves, or long diy dung. Potato-onions may be planted 
in the last week. 

2.—Fruiis. 

Prune, if not done before, gooseberry and currant trees: 
and, in the south, this is the time to prune vines which 
are trained to walls in the open air. 

'd,—Flov:ers. 

When hydrangeas, fuchsias, and other half-hardy 
flowers, are left in the borders out of doors, their roots 
ought to be well protected with long litter, ashes, fern 
leaves, &c. Plants in pots ought to be kept as dry as 
possible ; and, as wet out of doors is, in general, more de- 
structive than frost itself to many plants, cover, in wet wea- 
ther, amiculas, &;c., which may be placed in the open air. 



E. THE SUCCESSION OF CROPS. 



It is of the utmost importance, in point both of profit 
and convenience, to have as little of the garden vacant as 
possible ; and by means of deep digging, plenty of manure, 
and a judicious selection of crops, every corner may be 
kept bearing, except during winter, when the ground in- 
tended for spring crops may, in heavy and wet soils, be 

s 



194 



SUCCESSION OF CROPS. 



tlirown up iu ridges ; but this practice is found by Mr. 
Lee to injure light and stony soils. 

The winter-dug grounds will be ready to receive scarlet- 
runners by the end of April or the beginning of May, and 
cabbages, either of the autumn or the February sowing. 

The spring crops of peas and beans sown from Febru- 
ary to the end of April may be succeeded by cabbages 
sown in June, to come in early in winter or in spring. 

The ground that has been occupied by spring crops of 
c uTots, parsneps, and onions, may be planted in October 
with cabbages, the seed of which had been sown in the 
beginning of August. 

The winter crop of celery may be succeeded in March 
with autumn-sown cabbages, or with onions and carrots. 

The spring crop of early potatoes and radishes may be 
succeeded with lettuce or early York cabbages, or with 
turnips or spinach. The later crop of potatoes, planted 
in April or May, may be succeeded in autumn with 
savoys or German greens. 

A volume might be filled with similar directions ; but 
enough may be learned from this brief notice, and from 
what has been more fully detailed in the body of the 
work, to guide the inexperienced till the capabilities of the 
soil to bear a particular series of crops are discovered. 



INDEX. 



A 






PAGE 




PAGE 


Blue red-wood . 


. 124 


Accidents of cultivation 


41 , 


Borecole 


. 76 


Agents which, affect plants 


9 ; 


Box trees . 


. 106 


Air .... 


11 : 


Broccoli 


7 7 


Air ceils 




Broom, common 


. 120 


Alkalies 


18 i 


Bi*)mpton stocks . 


. 143 


Amaryllises . 


. 180 , 


Brussels sprouts 


. 77 


Ammonia . 


. 17 i 


Budding 


. 37 


Anemones 


. 159 ' 


Bulbs, hardy 


. 136 


Animals, injurious 


. 44 


Bulbs, tender 


. 179 


Annuals, hardy 


. 144 






Annuals, transplanting 


. 148 






Apple trees . 


. 99 


C 




April 


. 185 






Artichokes, Jerusalem . 


. 56 


Cabbages 


. 7 


Asparagus 


. 70 


Cabbage roses 


. 115 


August .... 


. 189 


Cactuses » 


. 178 


Auriculas . 


. 154 


Calceolarias . 


. 174 


Azaleas 


. 120 


Calendar of garden work 


. 182 






Camellias . 


. 174 






Canker in trees 


. 43 


B 




Carbon 


. 11 






■ Carnations 


. 155 


Balm 


. 84 


Carrots 


. 53 


Balsams 


. 179 


Cauliflowers . 


. 78 


Bay .... 


. 106 


\ Celery .... 


, 65 


Beans .... 


. 88 


; Chamomile 


. 84 


Beet .... 


55 


i Cherry trees 


. 101 


Begonias 


. 176 


1 Chervil . 


. 84 


Biennials, hardy 


. 140 


China roses . 


. 118 


Blanching endive . 


. 82 


Chinese chrysanthemums 


. 133 


Blanching plants 


. 10 


Chives or Syze 


. 65 


Blights . . 


. 13 


Circulation of the sap 


8 



196 



INDEX. 



Clays 


PAGE 

15 


Climbing annuals . 


151 


Climbing shrubs 


122 


Coal ashes for blanching 




celery 


67 


Cockscombs 


179 


Cold .... 


9 


Columbines 


131 


Conveniences 


42 


Corms, hardy 


136 


Corn salad 


84 


Cresses 


82 


Crocuses 


140 


Crops, succession of . 


193 


CroTvns of roots 


26 


Currant, red 


98 


Currant, "white 


98 


Currant, black . 


97 


Cuttings, striking of . . 


30 


D 




_ 

Dahlias . , . . 


161 


Daphnes . . . . 


111 


December . . . . 


193 


Deciduous shrubs . . . 


112 


Dew . . . . . 


12 


Dextrine . . . . 


47 


Diseases of plants 


43 


Division of roots . . . 


25 


Dog-tooth violets 


140 


Dolphin aphis . . . 


89 


Double furze 


111 


Double primroses . . . 


131 


Draining . . . . 


19 



E 

Early peas . . » , 86 

Early potatoes ^ . .51 
Earthing up celery . . 6 7 

Electricity . . . 13 ' 



I PAGK 

Endive 81 

1 Espalier apple trees . .99 
i Evergreen shrubs . . .105 
Evergreens, planting . .106 
Evergreen thorn . . ,124 



F 



February . 


. 183 


Fennel .... 


. 85 


Fermentation 


. 17 


Fig marigolds 


. 179 


Florists' flowers 


. 152 


Flowering 


. 39 


Flowers 


. 103 


Food of plants . ' 


9 


Forcing rhubarb 


. 69 


French beans 


. 90 


Frozen plants, treatment 


of 40 


Fruiting 


. 39 


Fruits 


. 91 


Fuchsias 


. 174 


Functions of leaves 


3 


G 




Gardexin'g Societies 


. 181 


Garlic 


. 03 


Gases imbibed by plants 


. 11 


Geraniums 


. 172 


German flower-seeds 


. 152 


German greens . 


. 76 


Golden rod . . 


. 132 


Good King Henry 


. 80 


Gooseberries . 


. 94 


Goose foot 


. 80 


Grafting 


. 36 


Grape vines 


. 102 


Guano .... 


. 18 


Guelder roses 


. 120 



INDEX. 



197 



H 



Half-hardy annuals 


PAGE 

. 176 


Ha-svthorn 


. 120 


Heartseases . 


. 164 


Heat 


. 9 


Heaths, hardy 


. 110 


Heaths, tender . 


. 174 


Hedges 


. 121 


Heliotropes 


. 174 


Hoeing 


. 42 


Holly 


. 106 


Hollyhocks . 


. 143 


Honeysuckle 


. 122 


Humia 


. 22 


Hyacinths 


. 157 


Hybridisation 


. 25 


Hydrangeas 


. 177 


Hyssop 


. 85 


I 

Implements 


. 42 


Inarching 


. 37 


Insects, injurious . 




Irises . . . . 


. 140 


Ivy for hiding ^alls . 


. 124 


J 






. 182 


Japan kerria 


. 120 


Japan quince tree . 


. 120 


Jasmine 


. 123 


Jerusalem artichoke 


56 


July 


. 188 


June . . . . 


. 187 


K 




I'L\LE 


. 76 


Kidney beans 


. 90 


Kitchen yegetables 


. 47 









PAGE 


L-^rRNrMS . 


. 120 


Laurel 


. 106 


Laurestine . 


. Ill 


Lavender . 


. 85 


Layering 


. 28 


Leaves 


. 71 


Leeks .... 


. 64 


Lettuce 


. 80 


Light .... 


. 10 


Lilacs 


. 120 


Lilies .... 


. 139 


Lime 


. 17 


Liquid manures 


. 18 


Lupins, annual . 


147 


Lupins, perennial . 


! 132 






Manl-res . 


. 16 


March .... 


. 184 


May 


. 186 


Mezereon 


. 113 


Mignonette 


. 150 


Mineral substances 


. 16 


Mint 


. 85 


Monkey floorers 


. 176 


Musk plant 


. 177 


Mustard 


. 84 


Myrtles, striking them 


in 


Tvater . 


. 36 


K 




XaRCISSL'sES 


. 139 


Xew Zealand Spinach 


Q r\ 
. oU 


November 


. 192 







October 


. 191 


. GEnotheras 


. 149 



198 



III 'l 





PAGE 




PAGE 


Offsets , . . , 


27 


R 




Onions , . , . 


61 






Operating- on soil 


20 


Rabbits . . 


. 46 


Organs of plants . 


2 


Radiation . 


S 


Oxygen , , . . 


11 


Radishes 


. 59 






Raking . 


. 21 






Ranunculuses 


. 159 






Raspberries 


. 94 


P 




Rats .... 


. 46 






Red cabbage 


. 75 


Paxsies . . . . 


164 


Red spider . 


. 45 


Parsley . . . . 


84 


Rhododendron 


. 109 


Parsneps . . . . 


55 


Rhubarb 


. 68 


Pear trees 


101 


Ridging ground in ^'intcr 


. 15 


Peas . . . . . 


85 


Rocambole . 


. 63 


Perennials, hardy 


128 


Rock plants 


. 135 


Periwinkles . . . . 


111 


Rock roses . 


. 110 


Petunias . . . . 


176 


Rockets . . . 


. 143 


Pinks 


155 


Roots * . . . 


. 48 


Planting- apple trees . 


99 


Roses 


. 115 


Planting cabbages 


73 


Rosemary 


. 85 


Plants in pots . 


166 


Rotation of crops 


. 41 


Plum trees . . . . 


101 






Poles for climbing roses 


127 






Polyanthuses . . . 


155 


S 




Poppies . . . . 


147 






Pores of plants . . . 


6 


Sage . . 


85 


Portugal laurels 


106 


Sap of plants 


8 


Potatoes . . . . 


48 


Savory . . . 


85 


Potato disease . 


52 


Savoys 


76 


Potato onions . . . 


64 


Scarlet-runners 


90 


Potting plants . i 


166 


Scarlet vervain 


176 


Pricking out cabbages . 


73 


Scotch roses 


119 


Pricking out celery . 


66 


Scurvy grass 


83 


Primroses . . . . 


131 


Seed lobes . 


24 


Principles of rearing flowers 


104 


Seeds . , 


85 


Privet for hedges . . . 


112 


September . . 


190 


Propagating 


22 


Shading . . ■ . 


40 


Protecting . , . . 


40 


Shallots 


63 


Pruning apple trees . 


100 


Sheds 


42 


Pruning climbing plants 


125 


Shelter 


40 


Pruning roses . . . 


116 


Shrubs, flo"wering 


105 


Pulp of x^lants 


8 


Slugs .... 


45 






Snails 


45 






Snapdragon . 


142 





INDEX. 


199 




PAGE 




PAGE 


Snow 


. 41 


Trellises 


. 124 


Snow-drops . 


. 140 


Trenches for celery . 


67 


Soils 


. 14 


Tuberous-rooted perennial 


3 136 


Sorrel .... 


. 84 


Tulips 


. 157 


Spinach . . . 


. 78 


Turnip fly . 


58 


Spirceas 


. 120 


Turnips 


. 57 


Spongelets 


5 






Staking perennials 


. 133 






Standard roses . 


. 117 


V 




Standard trees 


. 121 






Starworts . 


. 133 


Yeebenas 


. 176 


Strawberries 


. 91 


Yines 


. 102 


Strawberry tree 


. 106 


Yirginian creeper . 


. 124 


Striking slips 


. 30 


Yir gin's bower . 


123 


Succulent plants 


. 178 






Suckers 


. 29 






Sun roses . 


. 110 


W 




Sweet briar . 


. 119 






bweet nerbs 


. 84 


Wallfloweiis 


131 


Sweet peas . 


. 150 


Water 


12 


Sweet William . 


. 130 


Water cresses 


82 


Syringas 


. 120 


\Vatering . 


21 


Syze .... 


. 05 


Weather 


13 






Weeping trees . 


121 






White beet . 


56 


T 




Whortle berries 


110 






Window gardening 


166 


Tecoma radicans . 


. 125 


AYinds, shelter from . 


40 


Thyme 


. 85 


Windsor beans 


88 


Tiger fl-ower . 


. 137 


Wire for trellises 


125 


Tools 


. 42 


Wistaria consequana 


124 


Trailing plants for pots . 


. 179 






Training apple trees . 


. 99 






Training climbing plants 


. 123 


Y 




Transplanting . 


. 132 






Tree onion . 


. 63 


Yew trees 


112 


Trees, low deciduous . 


. 115 







fcUADBURt AXD EVA^S, FRITTERS, WUITEFRIARS. 



By the same Author, price Zs, 6rf. cloth. 

HOW TO LAY OUT A SMALL GAEDEJs' 

INTE>'DED AS A GUIDE TO AMATEURS IN CHOOSING, 
FORMING, OR IMPROYING A PLACE (FROM A QUARTER 
OF AN ACRE TO THIRTY ACRES IN EXTENT), T\'ITH 
REFERENCE TO BOTH DESIGN AND EXECUTION. 



BRADBURY & EVANS, 11, BOUVERIE STREET. 



H ' 137 80 




^^^^ » 



'♦.To' .0' 






4 cu 





" Deacidlfied using the Bookkeeper process, 
■'o * Neutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide 
Treatment Date: September 2012 

^ PreservationTechnologies 

Q , A WORLD LEADER IN COLLECTIONS PRESERVATION 

' 111 Thomson Park Drive 

Cranberry Township, PA 1 6066 
(724) 779-2111 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




